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The points made here are very accurate regarding San Francisco. Great information for a prospective newcomer considering a myth of SF versus what it's really like here.
san phlegmatico
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Between the raindrops
78 posts, read 27,336 times
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I once lived in New Orleans (uptown, like yourself). I have lived in California since -- in SF during '04 and '05. In SF, I lived both "in the City" (downtown) and on the peninsula. I am originally from the south -- Alabama.
New Orleans is my favorite city; and I intend to return there one day to "settle down" for life. I originally left because I had wanderlust and was jonesin' for a Kerouacian Odyssey. But I loved loved loved every day I was "proud to call New Orleans home." To this day, I read NOLA.com, listen to Rebirth CDs, and celebrate Mardi Gras. I could sing the 'Nolia praises all day long, but that is for another day. But in response to your query, I am interested in lending a perspective on 'what it's like to live in the City by the Bay', San Francisco.
It is often said that NOLA, SF, (and Boston), vie for the title Most European City on America. Having lived in both, I can tell you that residents of each are wont to draw comparisons between their own fair city and the other, between their city and Europe itself. There seems to be a mutual fondness between NOLA and SF -- a great respect and admiration. NOLA and SF: two exemplars of strong city character -- yet in distinctly different ways; each provincially insular, yet worldly-aware (SF being world-wise, NOLA understanding that the world influx keeps the economic wheels a-turnin'); each valuing it's funky charm. In this regard, though, it is noteworthy that, in SF you will witness "New Orleans Festivals" and restaurants claiming to serve "Authentic New Orleans food." You will not find the converse in NOLA.
I would say that the *greatest* challenges you will experience in relocating would be two-fold: the people and the weather.
People-wise, NOLA is warm, gregarious, high-spirited: home to many Good Time Charlies. Distinctly southern, yet distinctly its own brand (Yats, Creoles, Old South blueblooders, Dr. John-esque eccentric "characters," Dr. Ig-type Quarter Rats, etc.). NOLA is a gumboed amalgam of several European, American-indigenous, African groups, and the inter-breeding thereof. (Though its international status as a major convention and tourist city do indeed draw a cosmopoliton crowd, I would maintain that is the extent of it. So, the "melting pot" tag doesn't classically apply here.)
SF is melting pot. More on that in a minute. First, San Franciscans as a people are -- and I am speaking of those residing within the 'city proper' -- stereotypically (pardon the broad-brushing) transplants, transients, above-average in intellect, generally creative, somewhat materialist, aloof, and adventurous (in every sense: SF'ans tend to enjoy 'the outdoors', do not perceive themselves as slaves to the status quo, are go-getters -- even if they don the facade of laid-backness). SF'ans are also, on a whole, very politically-minded and, though fiscally very conservative (as greedy as any monied folk), are voting the socialist ticket, but not practicing socialists course. SF'ans also, among the middle and lower classes, are iconoclastic and have a high disregard and abhorrnace for 'the traditional', especially for class systems. This is primarily due to their transient nature, and secondly because of the large straight-off-the-boat working class immigrant populace. And of course the liberal students and professors of USF, art schools, Berkeley, Stanford, and the like which reside in SF. Ironically, the SF system -- propped up by a coalition of the uber-wealthy gold inheritants, nouveau riche technophoiles, and Johnny-come-lately international monied interests -- is about as fixed-in-stone as any socio-economic system I have ever seen. While the working people of SF laud their independency and espouse their upward-mobility-for-opportunities, they are generally stuck in a rut, pinned down by "the man" -- the heavy heel of the boot at their throats. SF'ans are also not gregarious; they are generally introverted and melancholy types. NOLA'ans are rowdy conversationalists; SF'ans are dreamers and diffident.
New Orleanians typically live a rambunctiously carefree elegance: they generally live in a pared-down manner -- true bohos -- enjoying the basic necessities of life, and content to 'live and let live'. Not ever fully embracing the conventional American Dream, though many experience and are subsequently given to vehemently express the stinging pangs of poverty. But all in all, the NOLA ethos has not been one to chase admittance to the beorgeois.
As for Weather... SF is a veritable mixture of moderate climates and the seasons do not play out as they conventionally do in the East and South. The hottest times of the year (80s) occur oddly enough in traditionally colder months, by East Coast standards; the summers are warm, albeit moderately -- also very breezy; the spring and fall seemed to me very similar in that fog was prevalent and coolness prevailed. All in all, temp-wise, SF is 'moderate' year 'round.
When in San Francisco, you must be prepared to deal with 'the elements' -- just like NYC or Chicago in this regard: gusty winds, sideways rain, heavy fog, days on end whereby the sun does not peek through. Heat is the only problem you will not have within the City of SF (though given the curious microclimate nature of the Bay Area, this does not apply to the 'burbs and surrounding hamlets). Bottom line: you will never experience the "New Orleans Dog Days of Summer" in SF. Lastly, you will probably never hear thunder or witness lightning in the Bay Area (a West Coast phenomenon). You will never be forced to evacuate due to hurricane.
I would be remiss if I did not comment on culture. As you know, New Orleans is steeped in a wonderfully rich and singular culture. And you know full well the extent to which it seeps into your blood, becomes a part of you -- inspires, captivates, romances, defines...
New Orleans Culture: red beans on Monday, Jazz at Lafayette Square, FQ Fest, Jazz Fest, Mardi Gras, people everywhere dressed garishly, wearing hats, technicolor suits and printed shirts, bejeweled in fleurs de lis. Heavy on the Catholic, heavy on the Creole cuisine. Crawfish shuckin' in the summer, the streetcars (not trolleys!) runnin' up the "neutral ground," uptown/downtown/lakeside/riverside New Orleans-ese, shotguns -n- camelbacks, New Orleans Jazz, New Orleans Funk, New Orleans R & B, New Orleans Saints. Cafe du Monde, the Brennan Family, po-boys, andouille sausage, Zara's markets, Deanie's-Bucktown, Liuzza's By the Track, Domilise's. Jacques Imo's, Vincent's, Commander's, Peristyle, Galatoires, Arnaud's, Armstrong Park, City Park, Tip's, the Maple Leaf, and on and on. Who's got the bay-bee?! Yeah you right! Makin' groceries... All New Orleanians know and love their cultural icons and fixtures, sayings and ways:
SF'ans, while not ignorant of their city's identity and icons by any means, do not (probably by their largely transient nature) hold them as near and dear to their hearts. Everyone knows and adores the physical landmarks and City accoutrements: the Transamerica Pyramid, Coit Tower, the Golden Gate Bridge, the "cable cars," the steep hills, the green green fauna, the pristine Presidio, the wondrously ribald Broadway/ Barbary Coast district, postcard row on Steiner, et. al.
But the SF culture -- in music, art, cuisine, fashion, events -- is a mish-mash of international cultures and heritages. A CLASSIC MELTING POT. There are a few SF styles or SF signatures, but they do not dominate the landscape. Ghirardelli's does come to mind; Boudin's sourdough; also, the "SF-style burrito"; the Haight hippie mystique and Jerry-mania and offshoot retreads; Fisherman's Wharf, and others.
But then again, NOLA is unique in this regard: it is like a little province of its own. SF, while diverse and variegated, is much more "normal," and perhaps even more "American" than New Orleans. Perhaps this sums it up: SF is not as provincial as NOLA. SF sees itself as a 'city of the world'. New Orleans is an island unto itself; it truly is the city that "cares not."
A word on neighborhoods...
NOLA is a gumbo of people, a checkerboard of streets and neighborhoods: one street is a bohemian cloister, the next street over is a notorious ghetto; the street adjacent to these is peppered with mansions, white-tablecloth eateries, and bountiful gardens. You have the Lower Garden abutting Erato and high-crime Central City, the Quarter contiguous with the Treme, Sleepy Carrollton lying next to the vibrant Universities which lies next to an idyllic Audubon Park. The gentrified Marigny is hemmed in by the decrepit urban blight of St. Claude, the Ninth Ward, and Desire areas. Quant Old Metairie is surrounded by strip-malled and working class 'hoods. Gothic cemetaries of Anne Rice lore dotting the landscape: bringing death to otherwise darken joyously spirited neighborhoods. Even the French Quarter itself is a checkerboard: Party Central is one block away from Antique Row; high-brow art galleries amidst the low-brow diversions.
SF's arrangement is, generally speaking: a collection of small neighborhoods comprising specific interests, ethnicities/ races, and socio-economic statuses. E.g., Chinatown is Chinese; North Beach is largely Italian, some Europeans, and many young bohemians; Pacific Heights is Old-Line wealthy and the rich-n-famous; the Haight is real-deal boho but also bohos-with-trust funds; Japantown is largely Japanese; Russian Hill is (not Russian, oddly enough) another enclave of the well-heeled; the Marina is homogenously young profesionals; the Mission is Mexican (peppered with international artists and f course bohos); the Castro is very gay; the Richmond is very European/ Middle Eastern/ Asian; the Tenderloin has a high Vietnamese population and art community (Academy of Art), also Homeless Mecca; the Western Addition is basically black; the inner lying areas of Sunset and out by UCSF is a bastion of med-students, doctors, and other medical types. There are of course many exceptions, but the 'hoods generally lay out according to historically-fixed patterns, common interests, and financial status.
The last difference I shall point out is an obvious one, but should be considered nevertheless: NOLA is a small city, especially post-K; SF is a much larger city (750,000 +) and the Bay Area itself is huge (7 million +) -- many whom flock to the City, causing spikes in population on given days. Lousiana is a low-population state; California, is well, practically like China. It can get VEEERRY claustrophobic here, even with access to all the remote parks, mountains, beaches, etc. The traffic factor is considerably greater, the neighborhoods are dense, the "getting lost in the crowd" factor is a formidable one -- especially when SF is much more capitalistic (contrary to the media's propogating the "SF is a commune" myth), while NOLA is not so much. SF does have a brilliant mass-transportation system (BART, et. al.), but it is an added cost of living expenditure and a time waster. SF commutes, unless you 'live where you work' are somewhat of an ordeal.
These are just one man's thoughts and perspectives. I hope this may point you in a direction for which to continue your research. Best of luck.
Last point of consideration: I have known many a New Orleanian to relocate to other areas (many due to Katrina) and come to find out they just cannot assimilate -- the pace, the culture, the people, the weather, the vibe, the crawfish pies... too many ingrained factors to overcome. After relocating they come to realize that NOLA is indeed one-of-a-kind, and for better or for worse, they are NOLA through-and-through and just can't live anywhere else. I'll never forget one lady, a native New Orleanian friend of mine, who once asked of me, "Where in this city do I go get a po-boy? And where are all the parades? WHERE DO Y'ALL CELEBRATE MARDI GRAS AT??" Sad thing was, she was dead freakin serious. Sadder, these things do not exist anywhere outside NOLA, Louisiana. Food for thought.
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