Thinking of leaving SF for Berkeley - advice? (Oakland, Thousand Oaks: real estate, renting)

[kikiclark]

After swearing I'd never leave SF I'm now beginning to think about a slightly less urban life in Berkeley. I used to work there so I'm pretty familiar with it but wanted to learn more. Perhaps from others who've made the same decision. Where did you end up in Berkeley and why do you prefer it over SF.

The main reason for our leaving is the fog and cold as we live on west side and it's been pretty depressing the past several years. I know Berkeley has it's share of fog but I also know it's not nearly as bad as over here, right? Also, I'm wondering why we own a pile of real estate without much to show for it. It seems like 1.3 million could get you something decent in Berkeley, the hills for example.

I've discovered Thousand Oaks and Elmwood so far and wondering more detail about these. Are there any neighborhoods you'd recommend that are also relatively kid friendly (we have a 2 1/2 year old). We really want to live in an urban environment, just with a little more trees and a little more room to breathe (i.e. non attached housing). We also really like being able to run our errands without getting in a car.

We're going to get in the car this weekend and do some driving around but with a toddler in tow, time is precious so we're doing research ahead of time.

Thanks!

[sliverbox]

I lived in Berkeley for 3 years. This is just my opinion, but I felt that for one, the city was congested and hard to drive in. The city put cement blockades on many intersections so you are FORCED to drive to and from the freeway on 2 major roads. Sometimes driving 2 miles to the grocery store could take 30 minutes. I'm not sure what your political leanings are, but I'm fairly open minded. That said, the almost cult-like political atmosphere there got to me after a few years to the point that I got sick of it. Lots of self-righteous people there with STRONG opinions that you'd better agree with.

That said, the Berkeley hills are in a place of their own. The overall population on the hill is wealthy. Very wealthy to an extent, and the type that reminds you of 'old money' you see in New England. A little too snotty for my tastes, but the houses are pretty and you can see most of the bay from up there.

Interesting you mentioned fog and the cold. That's one of the reasons I moved out because in the summer, a fog bank comes blasting over the hills reliably at 3:00 PM and makes the weather go from 75 to 50 degrees in 30 minutes flat. We moved to another Bay Area town that we like much better and has about 1/4th the traffic. As far as housing prices, well berkeley is just as overpriced as SF. But I guess if you have 1.3 million, your options are pretty open at this point assuming you can sell at that level given the changing market.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[Tallysmom]

Sliver is right about that fog bank... there's a mountainous curve at the Caldecotte tunnel and the marine layer seem to get stuck there until enough comes in to push it over the hill. And that marine layer comes in over Berkeley.

But when I was drinving home from Walnut Creek on 24, it was a sight to see this fog creeping over the hill.... just gorgeous...

[kikiclark]

Thanks for the input. I know about the fog there since I worked there for several years. But I'm thinking it's got to be better than not seeing sun at all for weeks at a time where we are. And at least you have temperatures above 65 some days. To be able to wear short sleeves some days is a dream for me.

My biggest reservation is about the traffic. I know how insane it is to get around town, especially because of those ridiculous speed bumps. And if we're looking at the hills, getting to a freeway is a pain (you've got to know those shortcuts like Cedar). That's one of the reasons why we must live near walkable retail so I don't have to spend most of our time in the car. It's a tough choice to make.

Thanks for your input. More comments anyone about particular neighborhoods?

[Jammym]

Just joined this thread for some advice...I am moving to Berkeley from TX, my husband just got a job with Cal. We have a 5 year old and a 2 month old. Where do you recommend renting? In Berkeley or a surrounding area?

[BearBranch]

I'm reverse. I moved from Berkeley/Oakland to Kingwood, Texas.

Berkeley is unique.
Also check out Albany (great schools, very pedestrian friendly.

[kettlepot]

You might consider the city of Alameda. It's close to Berkeley, is very walkable, has a lower than average crime rate, and I've heard that the schools are decent. Plus being on it's own island just gives it a very homey and protected feel.

[kikiclark]

Alameda is a bit too isolated for us. I like the ability to jump on public transit to get to SF and a more urban feel. thanks for the tip, though.

[DogLady321]

Originally Posted by sliverbox

We moved to another Bay Area town that we like much better and has about 1/4th the traffic. As far as housing prices, well berkeley is just as overpriced as SF. But I guess if you have 1.3 million, your options are pretty open at this point assuming you can sell at that level given the changing market.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Just curious, where did you move?

[kjbem]

Hello,
I lived in Berkeley for 3 years and have now lived in Oakland for about 13 years. Oakland is a great place to live. I'll bet you could find a nice house for a family in Rockridge for 1.3 - in fact, I know you could, I live near there.
Oakland is a lot sunnier and warmer than SF. I think it's a real gem.
I agree with the comments above about Berkeley. Traffic is difficult. My husband says that the motto for Berkeley should be: "Better living through regulation." I only go to Berkeley now if I can drive from Oakland via MLK way, and NEVER on the weekend. Also, I am very politically liberal. I once heard someone say that Berkeley was "provincial." I'd have to agree - you're only ok in Berkeley if you have a certain "political consciousness." It just better be the right one! Not my idea of open-ness.
kj