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I got a book (PDF) on homemade foundries and blacksmithing, and as I was going through it I remember thinking a lot of it was beyond my skill level, and probably above the skill level of most people. And it was supposed to be intro level, aimed at whoever survives the transition to mid-evil society after an EMP.
There will be plenty of raw iron and nickel (mixed with 25% copper) available. I think the guy who can produce a good (or even passable) quality nickel-steel alloy, after the fall, will be very valuable.
(I used to hang out with some backyard "tool and machine parts" makers. Give me a mild, malleable, steel, and I can shape it, temper it, anneal it, or even "case harden" it. That is about the extent of my skills.)
If this change the subject to much sorry...BUT
I got a book!!! How many folks have PAPER books on these subjects? Do most relay on electronic formats? I have lots of paper books even one on blacksmithing myself as well as many other subjects but very few in a E format. If I had to bug out I'd leave lots of information behind but if I'm stuck IN I'm good....
There is a bit more too it. The steel needs to be retempered at a low heat to relieve stress, and he should really cook it longer in the carbon, but that's all there is to it.
You can forge a pretty good edge just by heating the work in a reducing flame. Anybody who has ever done forge work knows where to find a reducing or oxidizing flame.
If you don't have electricity to run a bellows or power hammer, that is what apprentices are for.
Wow.
Quenching in water. Best way I know to crack your steel, the basic process he used is exactly what I referenced by wrapping the steel in carbon, but it didn't show he buried that froe in carbon. If he just let it lay on top of the charcoal bed, that one atom thick hardening would only be on the side touching the carbon. What is on that YouTube is very misleading and slipshod. Yes he had the basic elements of case hardening, but not enough to be worth wasting the resources on a marginal finished product.
He was right that you can sharpen or grind right through that carbon layer he added. It's only microns thick.
If you want the real process, the steel has to be heated to 1750 degrees and held at that temperature for 150 hours or more for the annealing ( not tempering, different process) to create true case hardened steel.
Case hardening is mostly used to create a hard surface for parts that will wear, like gears. It's not great for tools or weapons that are subject to sharpening.
The easiest and best technique for backyard smiths to create hard tools with a limited amount of good high carbon steel, go with San Mai.
Quenching in water. Best way I know to crack your steel, the basic process he used is exactly what I referenced by wrapping the steel in carbon, but it didn't show he buried that froe in carbon. If he just let it lay on top of the charcoal bed, that one atom thick hardening would only be on the side touching the carbon. What is on that YouTube is very misleading and slipshod. Yes he had the basic elements of case hardening, but not enough to be worth wasting the resources on a marginal finished product.
He was right that you can sharpen or grind right through that carbon layer he added. It's only microns thick.
If you want the real process, the steel has to be heated to 1750 degrees and held at that temperature for 150 hours or more for the annealing ( not tempering, different process) to create true case hardened steel.
Case hardening is mostly used to create a hard surface for parts that will wear, like gears. It's not great for tools or weapons that are subject to sharpening.
The easiest and best technique for backyard smiths to create hard tools with a limited amount of good high carbon steel, go with San Mai.
Granted it's not a great video, but you are pretty loose about throwing specs around without knowing what is going on.
Yes, it does show the froe being buried in charcoal dust. It does skip the step of reheating the work piece to a bright yellow (WTF is 1750 degrees?) and you do have to use a rapid water quench to preserve the grain structure. Then you relieve stresses by heating at low heat.
My school was on the end of a hammer handle, so I don't think things are anywhere near as dire or impossible as you do. You were the guy who didn't know what a cross pein hammer was, weren't you?
I got a book!!! How many folks have PAPER books on these subjects? Do most relay on electronic formats? I have lots of paper books even one on blacksmithing myself as well as many other subjects but very few in a E format. If I had to bug out I'd leave lots of information behind but if I'm stuck IN I'm good....
Granted it's not a great video, but you are pretty loose about throwing specs around without knowing what is going on.
Yes, it does show the froe being buried in charcoal dust. It does skip the step of reheating the work piece to a bright yellow (WTF is 1750 degrees?) and you do have to use a rapid water quench to preserve the grain structure. Then you relieve stresses by heating at low heat.
My school was on the end of a hammer handle, so I don't think things are anywhere near as dire or impossible as you do. You were the guy who didn't know what a cross pein hammer was, weren't you?
I see you didn't look at the referenced website, your loss.
I put out the correct information for anyone who needs it. It's not my problem if you don't understand the plastic state of steel necessary for bonding on an atomic structure level. But for those actually interested in the subject: https://www.nde-ed.org/EducationReso...eformation.htm
Water quenching steel that is over a couple hundred degrees will introduce micro fractures into the structure making the steel brittle so it can fail with impact or stress. Steel should be quenched in oil for a good temper. Thermocycling and annealing help to normalize the grain structure. Cooling too quickly creates large grains that are less stable, proper quenching creates fine grains that bond tightly for a strong molecular structure that will stand up to heavy use.
Sorry, your poor attempt to deflect has failed as I do know what a cross peen hammer is, and how to use them.
Anyone that would like information on blacksmithing or metalworking, I'd be happy to talk to them, they can pm me anytime.
I enjoy helping serious people learn new skills, or improve the skills they have. Blacksmithing is a skill that is a great hobby that could be very valuable in a disaster.
Anyone can hit a piece of metal with a hammer. It takes a blacksmith to make quality products that will last and you can depend on when you need them.
Well, the intel sources I watch indicate we have
at least a year before any attack becomes likely.
Can you elaborate on this? I'm super interested
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