OMG!
STOP RIGHT NOW!!!
I may sound like I'm raining on your parade, but you have made
CRITICAL mistakes.
If you build a house on this it WILL fall down.
Your flooring joists and what you have as subjoists are
WAY too small for the spans.
There is simply not enough strength in that floor to survive any serious load.
The first error is the worst. A single 2 x 6, even with a ledger board underneath it WILL NOT SUPPORT joists over a 12' or longer span. Even a steel I-beam would have a larger web for this purpose. Once there is any significant load on the floor those 2 x 6s will bend and then fail at a knot near the center. The ledger board, if it is just nailed on, adds NO strength.
The second error is the butting of the ends of the joists over the center subjoist. As the wood changes dimensionally with heat, cold, damp, dry, and natural warping, the joist end will come off the support of the subjoist. Joist ends are lapped and extended at least the thickness of the wood over the other side of a beam to prevent this.
The third error is that your unsupported span length of the 2 x 6 joists are way too long, even at 12" OC.
If you had a celebratory party with a dance, your guests would be bouncing and if you had more than a few, the floor could fail under them. Anything heavier than lightweight patio furniture would be a problem.
The fourth error is that there is no bracing or headers on your joists to keep them from twisting out of shape. They will. Wood does that.
A fifth error that I can't see but am almost sure was made is that there is no pinning of the floor to the foundation, or at least wind strapping. Without this, in even a strong storm, a house can be pushed off its blocks and crash to the ground.
There are other technical errors, but all of the above
must be addressed. Sorry.
You might have seen floor framing in the past that looked like this in older camps and homes, but the wood in those was likely oak or other dense hardwood, and still had problems. Common dimensional lumber isn't nearly as strong.
I hate to say it, but the best course of action is to take the floor deck down and start over. The good part is that you should be able to re-use most of the materials, so you've only lost time and the cost of some nails.
Here is a link that details the proper selection of wood, span lengths, etc. The reading gets pretty dense, so you might get stuck once or twice in reading it, and the temptation will be to dismiss it with "we don't have a building code here." Don't fall into that trap.
The laws of physics still apply. AFTER you've read through it at least once, read the rest of my post.
Understanding Loads and Using Span Tables - Publications - BM&WT - UMass Amherst
OK, that was the course on how and why, and the over-engineering designed to satisfy insurance companies and zoning boards. If you don't plan to insure the house, you can do some cutting of specifications and still have the home quite reasonably sound.
First - Put in more foundation piers. My guess is that the existing ones are about 12' O.C.
If you want 2 x 6 joists, you'll need to have the piers 6' O.C., even if you step up to doubled 2 x 8 subjoists making a beam.
The Xs are your existing piers, the o's are the new ones. The dashes are where the beams go.
X-o-X-o-X
o-o-o-o-o
X-o-X-o-X
o-o-o-o-o
X-o-X-o-X
If you want fewer piers, you can use doubled 2 x 12s as the beams and this configuration, you'll save making another 10 piers:
X---X---X
o---o---o
X---X---X
o---o---o
X---X---X
You can use
pressure treated 2 x 6s bolted and glued together into a 6" x 6" pier, resting in a hole filled with concrete mix, one big bag of quickcrete per hole. If the piers extend more that a couple feet out of the ground, they may need bracing. Accuracy of the tops is critical.
Your beams ( you'll need five of them 24' long) can be 2 screwed (use deck screws) and glued 2 x 8s or 2 x 12s, depending on how many piers you put in. In this case, the joints are staggered. Say you use 12' long 2 x 8s. You'll cut one to two pieces of 6' length. Place one 6' section and one 12' section together, so the ends of both are on the outside of the house footprint, and the other end are resting on piers. Screw and glue (construction adhesive in the caulking gun) them together and then add a 12' section to the butt end of the 6' section, and another 12' section to the other side. the joined boards will look like this from the top, with dashes representing the boards, and I's the joints;
------I------------I------
-------------I------------
The beams then have to be attached to the piers. You can use metal strapping, you can add cripples to the outside of the piers, but the beams have to be locked into place.
Now make sure the beams are properly spaced and parallel. It makes the following steps easier.
Next, your 2 x 6 joists go on top. Take one 2 x 6 and place it along the top outside of the outside beam. This becomes your header. Your joist ends are nailed into it. With the shorter spans, the joists only need to go every 16 inches OC, instead of 12" OC. starting from one beam, completely crossing another beam, and ending just past the center beam. That'll save you a little wood for later. Do the same thing on the other side, but offset by 1.5" to allow the joists to pass in the center and be nailed together. Note that by having the beam doubled and joists nailed to the header, the outside ends of the joists are protected from weather and bugs, supported by the interior 2x in the beam, and part of the load is transfered to the other outside 2x in the beam by the DECK SCREWS and glue, as well as the header, which is nailed to the ends of the joists.
When you get done, you will have a box which makes up your joists and headers. You now do the final truing it up to square, and attach the joists to the beams with straps (look in the cement area of Lowes for some cheap straps that come in quantities of 100), and then finally you will add bracing between the joists at least at the top of each interior beam.
I have to repeat - as the photo shows it, your beams are far too weak and spans are far too long for this to work. Get other advice if you don't believe me, but get it from an experienced outside builder instead of a friend who might not want to upset you.
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