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I was not impressed with Jamaica but I really liked Negril. I'm not an AI vacationer, so I avoided that scene in Negril and stayed instead in small boutique places. There are really two Negrils, the beach and the cliffs/west end, each with it's own unique scene and vibe. We split things up, staying for a few nights on Seven Mile Beach and then for a few nights on the cliffs.
The beach:
I really enjoyed our time on the beach as we were able to go on long walks every morning and loved being right on the sand in our room at Country Country. We also enjoyed walking the beach at night to get to dinner at the many restaurants lining the beach, and we never felt unsafe. Be prepared for many locals to approach you and offer to sell you anything from fruit, massages, boat trips, ganja, etc... Always give them the respect they deserve, but know that a firm NO THANK YOU will send them on to someone else. There's definitely a party scene to be found on the beach, but it's generally pretty low-key. I loved buying patties for lunch from Norman the Pattie Man from his rusty bike!
The cliffs:
This is where you can really escape in Negril. We stayed at the Rockhouse Hotel and absolutely loved the setting and views. The cliffs are a natural barrier that keep locals away, so there's no chance of being pestered around here as long as you're in a resort's property. The ocean was rough while we were there, so good swimming was not easy to come by. It is also a bit more challenging to just find somewhere to eat. You really need to pick your place ahead of time, phone them for a reservation and arrange for a ride. We tried walking one night down the dark, narrow and twisty road and it was a bit harrowing at times.
All in all, we enjoyed our time in Negril. I loved the scenery and peacefulness of the cliffs, but overall I enjoyed our time on the beach a bit more because we were able to get out and about easier.
Would I go again? Maybe, but I'd much rather go back to Tulum instead. The Rockhouse was a bucket list place for me though, so I'm glad I ticked that box.
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