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YES.YES, I am one of those VW nuts out there. Mainly a air cooled specialist of 28 yrs. I worked mainly on engines. Repaired/rebuilt stock and high performance. Single and dual carbed. Also a couple of TURBO engines that are for the street use putting out about 200 HP. I have one in my garage that is over 13 yrs old with only 20,000 miles on it waiting for another new home. Keep selling the cars and keeping this engine I built. I blue printed and balanced it and is my pride and joy. Today, there are many bugs (T1), busses (T2), and squarebacks (T3) being restored to original as much as posible. Magazine racks have a VW magazine that will tell people a lot more then I can on this post. Many like myself have done a lot of R&D to improve performance etc on the Bugs. I personally made it a science to use different procedures that were never in the owners manuel as to repairing steps/adjustments/tweaking where tweaking was not allowed. My dad was a domestic mechanic of 40 yrs and taught me at 13 (helped him in his repair shop) the whats and whats not to do to make a car engine run the best for the customer. You did the customer right or you did not work on their car at all. You did them justice. On the clutch cable problem. The clutch/brake pedal assembly had a shaft with the hook should always be inspected at the time of cable replacement. This shaft is easily replaced by a honest mechanic at this time to eliminate future problems. Carb problem in my opinion was a factory GOOF on the fuel inlet nipple. What I did was to CRIMP one end with a pair of pliers to put TEETH marks on it and would tap it back into the carb with a Plastic Mallet. Did this for many moons. I have seen many engine fires as a result of this nipple coming out on peoples cars. The fuel pump puts out only 3 lbs of pressure to the carb. Clamps on the fuel hose should always be put on for safety. I could go on and on and on about different things a bug owner could do to make his ride a good safe ride. Again, I was mainly a engine man. If people out there need some FREE opinions on what to do with their 40 HP, 1300,1500,1600.1776,1835,2180, Check with C-D for my E-Mail address and I will gladly help to answer some questions. I am presently retired in Baja Mexico and just got this computer a couple of months ago and need some form of outlet. I know there are people out there who need advice as I see the questions in the VW magazine I subscibe too each month. Happy Bug Ride. Stefhen
I have a 2003 Jetta TDI great car.
It has 72k miles, I replaced the trunk hinges under warranty and just recently had to have the alternator pulley replaced.
Other than that it’s been a great car. Just add fuel @580 miles per tank, and change the oil every 10k miles.
My first car was a 71 Karmanghia I inherited from my mom....great memories from it.
I also have had a 88 Jetta,it was a good ride while it lasted,and I was on a budget.
But I tell you what,I worked for VW for 5 years.....I know you guys love your car but personally I wouldn't want one.
Jetta,Golf Beetle........Airflow meters,mirror switch,window switches,splash shields breaking,door trims peeling,window lifters,window motors breaking and more more more.......There were times a new car got sold and the window lifter broke as the car left the lot.the warranty index was high.As long as you have a warrenty you are fine but good luck paying cash.I think QC has gotten better though.
Passats,same problems as the others add oil sludge head problems in 1.8 ,ABS modules,ECM modules.......and on.
Toureg?$225 for front brake pads,$175 for rear,ABS sensors $70,rotors around $250 each.....that's just part prices not labor doing a brake job.Prices changed monthly though.
Hi Steve,
I'm also a Vw nut but a little inexperienced for what I got myself into. Maybe you have some good advice for me.
A friend built a 1835 for me with duel Weber 44's. Since the begining I've had idle and bogging problems.I have carter electric fuel pump and a 009 dis.
I want to turn this car into more of a weekend driver. I've been recomended to go back to a single 34 PICT and jet it properly. I wondered if I could go down to just one of my duel webers?
What do you think?
Let me know. Thanks.
Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bagu
YES.YES, I am one of those VW nuts out there. Mainly a air cooled specialist of 28 yrs. I worked mainly on engines. Repaired/rebuilt stock and high performance. Single and dual carbed. Also a couple of TURBO engines that are for the street use putting out about 200 HP. I have one in my garage that is over 13 yrs old with only 20,000 miles on it waiting for another new home. Keep selling the cars and keeping this engine I built. I blue printed and balanced it and is my pride and joy. Today, there are many bugs (T1), busses (T2), and squarebacks (T3) being restored to original as much as posible. Magazine racks have a VW magazine that will tell people a lot more then I can on this post. Many like myself have done a lot of R&D to improve performance etc on the Bugs. I personally made it a science to use different procedures that were never in the owners manuel as to repairing steps/adjustments/tweaking where tweaking was not allowed. My dad was a domestic mechanic of 40 yrs and taught me at 13 (helped him in his repair shop) the whats and whats not to do to make a car engine run the best for the customer. You did the customer right or you did not work on their car at all. You did them justice. On the clutch cable problem. The clutch/brake pedal assembly had a shaft with the hook should always be inspected at the time of cable replacement. This shaft is easily replaced by a honest mechanic at this time to eliminate future problems. Carb problem in my opinion was a factory GOOF on the fuel inlet nipple. What I did was to CRIMP one end with a pair of pliers to put TEETH marks on it and would tap it back into the carb with a Plastic Mallet. Did this for many moons. I have seen many engine fires as a result of this nipple coming out on peoples cars. The fuel pump puts out only 3 lbs of pressure to the carb. Clamps on the fuel hose should always be put on for safety. I could go on and on and on about different things a bug owner could do to make his ride a good safe ride. Again, I was mainly a engine man. If people out there need some FREE opinions on what to do with their 40 HP, 1300,1500,1600.1776,1835,2180, Check with C-D for my E-Mail address and I will gladly help to answer some questions. I am presently retired in Baja Mexico and just got this computer a couple of months ago and need some form of outlet. I know there are people out there who need advice as I see the questions in the VW magazine I subscibe too each month. Happy Bug Ride. Stefhen
Hello Mike... (your not my son playing games with me are you?)
Kidding aside...glad to help.
1835 (69 crank with 92 mm pistons) personally I do not care for this combination unless you go with a good cam and some bigger valves. Most people just do the 92mm and nothing else with low results. Stock 34-3 carb is not big enough to feed the cyls. You could go with bigger main jets but the air fuel relationship would be too lean for good performance. Workable YES...strong NO.
As to your 44 webers (nice Carbs for 92's) you may have a jetting or linkege adjustment problem. Disconnect the linkege on #1-2 side...adjust idle screw on #3-4 side to about 1000 RPM...use a Unisyn on it and find a middle on the float../move unisyn over to #1-2 and adjust idle screw to the same level as 3-4 side...go back and forth a couple of times being sure the float is the same...now you can reconnect the linkege to #1-2 carb... do necessary adjustment...making sure there is no sloppyness so that when you use your hand on the center of the linkege to rev the engine that both carbs open evenly...this is where you might be having a bogging problem...too bad your not here as I would be more then happy to do it for free (have nothing else to do).
On the 009...use a timing light with a adjust knob...set at 30 degrees and rev the engine to about 3000 RPM and TDC should come to the split of the case.
As to the 34-3 (NO WAY) A single Holly Bug Spray Model 300 would be a good unit as it breaths well.
E-Mail me at (Stefhenbagu@Prodigy.net.mx) and will help you more if you desire more help.
Steve
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Vw question
