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Old 03-30-2009, 06:38 PM
 
Location: Wouldn't you like to know...
138 posts, read 428,570 times
Reputation: 34

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Since you are military, the cost shouldn't be an issue. You get reimbursed or up front payment for pretty much everything. Be warned about driving through Canada. Although my husband and I took the Ferry, we did have to drive about 300 miles through Canada to get back into Alaska and we didn't have cellphone service at all.

If taking the Ferry, bring food that you won't mind eating for about 3 days and juices as the Ferry food is "for the birds". Also, bring lots of reading materials or something to play dvds on. My husband watched season 1 of the Sopranos. Also make sure you book the ferry through to Whittier which is an hour away from the AFB. We booked in time to be the last car on the boat but not in time to get the better route. If you book through to Whittier, you won't have to worry about driving through Canada. We booked through Haines which is 775 miles from Anchorage. The drive was not something I would repeat. Make sure your entire family is on the orders and book the Ferry now through Transportation or however the AF wants you to do it. We are with the Army so we had to book straight through the Ferry company and there is no penalty for canceling if done at least one or two weeks before the scheduled appointment.

We drove from GA and drove at night and rested during the day. We did hit a hare in South Dakota which tore out the radiator and fan and messed up the bumper. Thank goodness for insurance. We didn't get snow tires until we got to South Dakota since we had to get the car fixed. So, don't freak out about getting the tires now. I am in Anchorage and I still don't have snow tires.
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:43 AM
 
49 posts, read 134,612 times
Reputation: 35
Default What nobody told me before I moved to Anchorage

Before moving to Anchorage from Bavaria a few months ago I did significant research on what it would take to move to Anchorage. In addition I spoke to several people with Alaska experience. What I discovered is that most people won't give you information that is of value.

This is what I learned about Anchorage:

They say that Alaskans drive all sorts of vehicles. True. But, the roads and conditions are horrible and there are places in Eagle River, for example, that require four wheel drive. A two wheel drive truck is worthless in the winter time. A front wheel drive with winter studded tires can get by reasonably well. A four wheel drive with winter studded tires is best.

They say that the roads are fine. Wrong. These are the worst roads I have ever seen. Holes, cuts, bumps, expansions, etc... are horrible. Based on recommendations that the roads were fine I brought a vehicle with low profile tires to Anchorage which was a major mistake. While the car handles the winter months very well with winter tires on it (snow and ice fill the holes and smooth the bumbs) the summer months are very hard on it. One simply can not avoid all of the pott holes, bumps or tears in the pavement. The sound and feeling of the front suspension slamming into sharp edged pavement irregularities is something that I have grown to detest. By the time I leave Anchorage the car will have mybe 80,000 miles and it will be worn out.

Next, they gravel the roads in the winter. What this means to you is that you will have broken glass and head/ fog lights. Luckily there are ways to prevent this like not following too closely behind the vehicle in front of you.

Unfortunately these are the worst drivers I have ever seen. Drivers in Mexico and Korea are better. Drivers in Poland, Estonia, Hungary, Czech Republic may be better. Drivers and Afghanistan and Iraq are comparable with the nod going to Alaska drivers but barely. The numbers of junk vehicles with Alaska plates turned over on the medians this past winter on the highway proves this. This is important to you because while you are driving, putting sufficient space between yourself and the vehicle infront of you to prevent excessive gravel damage to your vehicle, every idiot with an Alaska plate will cut you off and shower your vehicle with rocks. They don't care about you because nobody cares about them.

Housing. Military housing is worthless, they willingly lie. Depending on your rank you may not get offered housing before you PCS somewhere else even though they have vacant houses available. Housing in Anchorage can be horrible, be careful what you agree to. There can be fantastic houses listed on the internet but the neighborhood is run down and the adjacent properties are dumps. If you are willing to drive 30-40 miles there are incredible houses in Palmer and Wasilla, but you have to drive. Start looking early to provide the best options.

Now, Alaskans are friendly and this is a good thing but anybody can carry a concealed weapon and many do. Soldiers have been killed due to verbal altercations or trying to stop fights. Bottom line, don't cross anybody.

Also, when you drive through Canada gas is much more expensive than in the states. A co worker told me that last summer for one tank of gas he would have to run his car two or three times to pay because of charge limits. He would have to do this two -three times per day.
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:11 PM
 
Location: Wasilla, Alaska
17,823 posts, read 23,452,578 times
Reputation: 6541
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo72 View Post
Before moving to Anchorage from Bavaria a few months ago I did significant research on what it would take to move to Anchorage. In addition I spoke to several people with Alaska experience. What I discovered is that most people won't give you information that is of value.
Everyone has different values, and the posters in this forum (for the most part) do their best to answer any question that is asked. If you do not like the answers or do not find the answers valuable, then try asking a different question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo72 View Post
This is what I learned about Anchorage:

They say that Alaskans drive all sorts of vehicles. True. But, the roads and conditions are horrible and there are places in Eagle River, for example, that require four wheel drive. A two wheel drive truck is worthless in the winter time. A front wheel drive with winter studded tires can get by reasonably well. A four wheel drive with winter studded tires is best.
I have both a 4x4 pickup and a FWD sedan. The 4x4 has better traction on snow and ice, but both are exactly the same when it comes to stopping on ice. Next time you drive the Glenn Highway in the Winter, you might want to pay attention to the types of vehicles in the ditch. They are overwhelmingly 4x4s and AWD vehicles, bought by people who thought a 4x4 or AWD was safer than a FWD vehicle. So go ahead and buy that 4x4 or AWD to get that invincible feeling. When you are trying to figure out how to get your 4x4 or AWD out of the ditch, I'll just smile and wave as I drive by in my FWD sedan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo72 View Post
They say that the roads are fine. Wrong. These are the worst roads I have ever seen. Holes, cuts, bumps, expansions, etc... are horrible. Based on recommendations that the roads were fine I brought a vehicle with low profile tires to Anchorage which was a major mistake. While the car handles the winter months very well with winter tires on it (snow and ice fill the holes and smooth the bumbs) the summer months are very hard on it. One simply can not avoid all of the pott holes, bumps or tears in the pavement. The sound and feeling of the front suspension slamming into sharp edged pavement irregularities is something that I have grown to detest. By the time I leave Anchorage the car will have mybe 80,000 miles and it will be worn out.
Who is this mysterious "they" to whom you keep referring? I have never read a post in this forum claiming Alaskan roads were "fine." Obviously you just like to make things up and then attribute them to this mysterious "they."

Alaska uses softer asphalt than the lower-48, and this has a tendency to cause ruts on well-traveled roads, and potholes every spring. Frost-heaves are just part of life living in a northern state. If you are wearing out a vehicle after only 80,000 miles, then clearly you can't drive. My 4x4 pickup has 285,000 miles on it, and my sedan has 178,000 miles. All of them Alaskan miles, and neither vehicle is "worn out."

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo72 View Post
Next, they gravel the roads in the winter. What this means to you is that you will have broken glass and head/ fog lights. Luckily there are ways to prevent this like not following too closely behind the vehicle in front of you.
Would you rather they salted the roads, like many lower-48 cities? By the time you get 50,000 miles on your vehicle you will be driving a rust-bucket. The sand and gravel used on Alaskan roads provides the best traction in snow and ice with the least amount of overall damage to the vehicle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo72 View Post
Unfortunately these are the worst drivers I have ever seen. Drivers in Mexico and Korea are better. Drivers in Poland, Estonia, Hungary, Czech Republic may be better. Drivers and Afghanistan and Iraq are comparable with the nod going to Alaska drivers but barely. The numbers of junk vehicles with Alaska plates turned over on the medians this past winter on the highway proves this. This is important to you because while you are driving, putting sufficient space between yourself and the vehicle infront of you to prevent excessive gravel damage to your vehicle, every idiot with an Alaska plate will cut you off and shower your vehicle with rocks. They don't care about you because nobody cares about them.
If you are repeatedly being cut off by Alaskan drivers, you might want to consider driving the speed limit, or at the very least get out of the way of those drivers who do want to drive the speed limit. If you really want to get people upset, drive below the posted speed limit in the left-hand lane and refuse to merge right (as the law requires) when approached from behind.

Every year we get a new batch of lower-48ers moving to Alaska, many of them military, who have utterly no clue how to drive in winter conditions. They are the ones you will find in the ditch every winter. Particularly between Eagle River and Fort Richardson.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo72 View Post
Now, Alaskans are friendly and this is a good thing but anybody can carry a concealed weapon and many do. Soldiers have been killed due to verbal altercations or trying to stop fights. Bottom line, don't cross anybody.
Soldiers have also done the killing. If you recall, it was soldiers from Fort Wainwright that murdered a Fairbanks resident for what amounted to pocket change. Alaskans are very well armed, and I wouldn't have it any other way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo72 View Post
Also, when you drive through Canada gas is much more expensive than in the states. A co worker told me that last summer for one tank of gas he would have to run his car two or three times to pay because of charge limits. He would have to do this two -three times per day.
If you have bothered to read this forum for any length of time you would have noticed that literally everyone living in Alaska has advised those driving up from the lower-48 to buy the Milepost magazine. There is a very good reason for this. It include the routes through Canada, gasoline prices, currency exchange information, hotel/motel information, and a great deal more information about what to expect.

You make it sound like there is a vast Alaskan conspiracy to withhold this information, when in reality it is you just learning it for the first time and it comes as a revelation. Maybe if you did your homework better, you would have already learned this tid-bit of information before you arrived.
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:35 AM
 
40 posts, read 179,048 times
Reputation: 39
I think you might need passports to get threw canada now a days. Might wanna check on that if you don't have them already.
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:35 AM
 
49 posts, read 134,612 times
Reputation: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glitch View Post
Everyone has different values, and the posters in this forum (for the most part) do their best to answer any question that is asked. If you do not like the answers or do not find the answers valuable, then try asking a different question.



I have both a 4x4 pickup and a FWD sedan. The 4x4 has better traction on snow and ice, but both are exactly the same when it comes to stopping on ice. Next time you drive the Glenn Highway in the Winter, you might want to pay attention to the types of vehicles in the ditch. They are overwhelmingly 4x4s and AWD vehicles, bought by people who thought a 4x4 or AWD was safer than a FWD vehicle. So go ahead and buy that 4x4 or AWD to get that invincible feeling. When you are trying to figure out how to get your 4x4 or AWD out of the ditch, I'll just smile and wave as I drive by in my FWD sedan.



Who is this mysterious "they" to whom you keep referring? I have never read a post in this forum claiming Alaskan roads were "fine." Obviously you just like to make things up and then attribute them to this mysterious "they."

Alaska uses softer asphalt than the lower-48, and this has a tendency to cause ruts on well-traveled roads, and potholes every spring. Frost-heaves are just part of life living in a northern state. If you are wearing out a vehicle after only 80,000 miles, then clearly you can't drive. My 4x4 pickup has 285,000 miles on it, and my sedan has 178,000 miles. All of them Alaskan miles, and neither vehicle is "worn out."



Would you rather they salted the roads, like many lower-48 cities? By the time you get 50,000 miles on your vehicle you will be driving a rust-bucket. The sand and gravel used on Alaskan roads provides the best traction in snow and ice with the least amount of overall damage to the vehicle.



If you are repeatedly being cut off by Alaskan drivers, you might want to consider driving the speed limit, or at the very least get out of the way of those drivers who do want to drive the speed limit. If you really want to get people upset, drive below the posted speed limit in the left-hand lane and refuse to merge right (as the law requires) when approached from behind.

Every year we get a new batch of lower-48ers moving to Alaska, many of them military, who have utterly no clue how to drive in winter conditions. They are the ones you will find in the ditch every winter. Particularly between Eagle River and Fort Richardson.



Soldiers have also done the killing. If you recall, it was soldiers from Fort Wainwright that murdered a Fairbanks resident for what amounted to pocket change. Alaskans are very well armed, and I wouldn't have it any other way.



If you have bothered to read this forum for any length of time you would have noticed that literally everyone living in Alaska has advised those driving up from the lower-48 to buy the Milepost magazine. There is a very good reason for this. It include the routes through Canada, gasoline prices, currency exchange information, hotel/motel information, and a great deal more information about what to expect.

You make it sound like there is a vast Alaskan conspiracy to withhold this information, when in reality it is you just learning it for the first time and it comes as a revelation. Maybe if you did your homework better, you would have already learned this tid-bit of information before you arrived.
Well, that certainly didn't take long. Unfortunately apart from making personal attacks in an effort to discredit me you don't refute anything I provided, in fact you make excuses which is the exact same thing that people did to me which isn't helpful.

For reference, you are now considered with the "they" as you provided bland and worthless responses for someone who is moving to Alaska and needs real answers not excuses for the way things are.

The fact is Anchorage roads are poor, not ok, not good. Making excuses as you have done will not make them good even though you might think that they are good because that is all you know. When someone such as myself asks many people specific questions as I did because of a specific concern and they receive nothing but excuses like you provided (which is similar to the responses that everyone else provided) they are not being helpful. When I ask a question like "I have type A car with these high performance characteristics" the response should be- you might have problems with this... Things that are just a part of life to you are not to everybody else. It would be nice if these things are discussed. I would have appreciated if someone had told me the roads are poor because there are countless holes, cuts, fills, and edges on any given mile or road before I discovered it for myself. It is simply impossible to miss half of the holes and cuts on the road for any journey that I make.

I am not making an issue that Alaska gravels the roads, I could care less, but in reference to your comment, a vehicle that is properly prepped and maintained will run fine for many years even if it is driven on salted roads.

The issue isn't whether or not I drive slower than the speed limit, the issue is that if you are not driving 15-20 miles in excess of the speed limit (regardless of road conditions) you will be blown off of the road and showered by gravel. In fact, if you do not floor it immediately after the bridge in Eagle River in either direction (for example) you will be passed by every idiot around you. The excuse is that four wheel drive gives a false sense of security. The truth is that Alaskans are careless and possibly reckless drivers. Maybe this is transference of the frontier mentality. This carelessness/ recklessness is what causes many people to have broken windows and or lights with the additional excuse - most people have a broken window so it is normal. Again this is an excuse because people can use mud flaps, drive somewhere near the speed limit so their tires don't throw rocks excessively far, and not change lanes at highway speeds with less than 10' between vehicles. All of these things require you to do something first - care about someone else which most Alaskans don't. It will also greatly reduce the number of junked vehicles seen in the ditch along the highway at any given time.

The issue isn't whether or not you need a magazine to identify whether or not you can make it to the next gas station, the issue is whether or not you have enough money to pay for the gas that you just put in your vehicle to get you to the next gas station. If gas is $4 in the States a tank might cost $300 or more. How many times per day can the average person do this?

Last, the issue isn't that Soldiers have been involved in shootings, the issue is that if you become involved in an altercation you run an increased chance of being confronted by a weapon because Alaskans carry them and use them much more frequently than others.

People need to know these Alaska specific items before they move to Alaska.
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:21 AM
 
3 posts, read 7,784 times
Reputation: 19
Default Definately drive the alcan

I drove from the panhandle of Florida to Alaska back in 03'. I have driven it 4 more times since then. You can get across Canada in 3 days if you don't stop to see all of the animals and scenery. The AlCan is not as bad as it used to be back in the 80's. There is no real difference in gas prices anymore between Canada and the States and the Ferry can have a six month waiting list. If you do drive though try to drive at night as much as you can if the sun is shining. This should help you avoid all of the motor homes. Once you get farther North however, hotels and gas stations close around 8 or 9 pm and they can be spread up to 200 miles apart so plan accordingly and bring a couple of extra cans of gas. If you are driving in the winter it's a bit more exciting. I drove from L.A in a small Toyota pickup pulling a Uhaul. I wouldn't recommend that.
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:30 AM
 
Location: Orlando
8,276 posts, read 12,859,732 times
Reputation: 4142
When I was little I made the move from Patrick AFB (Cocoa) to Elmendorf... AK is a pretty place but I'll take FL any day.

The romantic thing to do was to watch the sunset and rise... it happens quickly, Northern lights are amazing, Moose are dumb animals so stay out of their way. Plant a potato you will be amazed at how they grow. Go see the glaciers. buy lots of down for the winter. Its a neat place, enjoy it.
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:33 AM
 
Location: Dangling from a mooses antlers
7,308 posts, read 14,691,026 times
Reputation: 6238
Everyones perceptions are different. Compared to Nome, Barrow and Ketchikan, Anchorage roads are sweet. I drove a 2 wheel drive Ford F150 in Anchorage year round for 5 years and never got stuck. Only thing I added was studded tires in the winter. My wife drove a front wheel drive Dodge Omni for the same time without getting stuck.

Every legally qualified Alaskan can carry a concealed weapon. So what? That's the way it should be. If you have a problem with anger management and self control then maybe you should seek counseling. You really need help if you feel the need to fly off the handle and get in other peoples faces. Please provide your source of information for making the claim that concealed weapons carriers are shooting military members in Anchorage. Why make such wild claims not based on facts?

It sounds to me like someone just has a big case of sour grapes. I've been to Florida once and never saw a reason to go back. Nice weather but way too many people.
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