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Location: Mableton, GA USA (NW Atlanta suburb, 4 miles OTP)
11,334 posts, read 26,081,428 times
Reputation: 3995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevK
There probably are not many "clunkers" in the metro because once a car gets about 120,000 or so miles on it here you will find that you have to spend more and more money on it every year to get it past the stringent emissions test here. So lots of folks get rid of them by trading them in for somethng newer (the dealer then either spends the money to get the car to pass emissions or sells it to another dealer outside the metro where they do not have to test).
My Accord is over 175,000 now. No such problems ... it passes the emissions tests easily.
Is it true that you can qualify for the "clunker" cash, but cannot combine that with any trade in value? In other words, these clunkers aren't worth anything to the dealers because, by their very definition, they will be junked?
Apparently, it's not a good negotiating move to announce you have a clunker to the dealer. Here's what one of the news sites said:
"The new law bars showrooms from using the credit to offset rebates and discounts being offered to the dealer and manufacturer.
Don't walk into a dealership and say, 'Hey, I'm ready to cash in on Cash for Clunkers now. I'm ready to pick up a new car.' They're going to hold the line on purchase price of vehicle. The smart shopper calls, gets quotes and doesn't say anything about a clunker."
Don't walk into a dealership and say, 'Hey, I'm ready to cash in on Cash for Clunkers now. I'm ready to pick up a new car.' They're going to hold the line on purchase price of vehicle. The smart shopper calls, gets quotes and doesn't say anything about a clunker."
That's true about any smart car purchase. Always negotiate the price of a car as if you're paying cash. Never discuss monthly payment costs or trade in allowances, since those are how dealers manipulate the numbers.
Go to Edmunds.com or one of the car buying services like Consumer Reports, and get a good idea of the actual invoice cost, and what the holdbacks and incentives are for the exact vehicle you want to buy. Then negotiate a cash price for that vehicle. Tell the dealer you plan to get your own financing through your bank or credit union. After you have the firm cash price in writing, then you can negotiate a trade or ask the business guy about what financing they offer for comparison.
I'm amazed at how many people walk in to a dealer and say "I only want to spend $300/mo in payments" and "I have to get <insert $$ figure> for my trade". Those statements paint SUCKER across your forehead and the neon $$$ go off in the sales guy's head.
That's true about any smart car purchase. Always negotiate the price of a car as if you're paying cash. Never discuss monthly payment costs or trade in allowances, since those are how dealers manipulate the numbers.
Go to Edmunds.com or one of the car buying services like Consumer Reports, and get a good idea of the actual invoice cost, and what the holdbacks and incentives are for the exact vehicle you want to buy. Then negotiate a cash price for that vehicle. Tell the dealer you plan to get your own financing through your bank or credit union. After you have the firm cash price in writing, then you can negotiate a trade or ask the business guy about what financing they offer for comparison.
I'm amazed at how many people walk in to a dealer and say "I only want to spend $300/mo in payments" and "I have to get <insert $$ figure> for my trade". Those statements paint SUCKER across your forehead and the neon $$$ go off in the sales guy's head.
I get that all the time, except they want that $300 payment on a $35,000 vehicle and the inserted figure you list for the trade is twice what the car is worth.
99% of car buyer's do exactly what you say. In our business we know that the internet allows access to most everything going on in a car deal. The impression of a car salesman that is out to sucker you grates on my nerves. My frustration is the people that know what invoice is, know the rebates, incentives and rates that auto manufacturers have in place and then still demand thousands less than that and claim they know someone who bought the car for such is mind boggling. Customers lie, lie, lie and when I am upfront and honest about the whole process look at me like I am ripping their heads off.
I get that all the time, except they want that $300 payment on a $35,000 vehicle and the inserted figure you list for the trade is twice what the car is worth.
99% of car buyer's do exactly what you say. In our business we know that the internet allows access to most everything going on in a car deal. The impression of a car salesman that is out to sucker you grates on my nerves. My frustration is the people that know what invoice is, know the rebates, incentives and rates that auto manufacturers have in place and then still demand thousands less than that and claim they know someone who bought the car for such is mind boggling. Customers lie, lie, lie and when I am upfront and honest about the whole process look at me like I am ripping their heads off.
Sorry, folks, just needed to vent.
Spouse and I buy cars exceedingly rarely since our usual practice is to buy new, maintain properly and drive until dead. However, since I just arranged a new car purchase, I'd say that the internet information availability has been pushing both auto salespeople and consumers towards more simplicity and directness, but we're not all there yet.
I visited one dealer and requested internet quotes from 3 others. One of the internet quotes was around $700 less than the other quotes, which were all within a $200 range. I went with the low one. One of the other quoters phoned me and when I said I'd gotten a much cheaper quote, sputtered a lot about how in the age of internet, pricing is transparent, all quotes should be within $100 or $200 of each other, and anything much lower was a "red flag" that should indicate to me that "something is wrong". He said if I'd forward him the lower quote email, he'd speak to his manager and try to see if there was any way they could match it, although he doubted it.
I said that I didn't feel inclined to share this competitive information with him, and if he could at best match the competitor's quote, then I'd prefer to deal with the person originally quoted that price. That would seem more fair.
When I visited the "lowball" dealership to make a deposit, it turned out to be a huge operation with the usual fancy showroom etc. My salesman said they're one of the highest volume dealerships in the state, which I presume accounts to some extent for their ability to offer more aggressive pricing. We don't pick up the car until tomorrow, but I'm optimistic this transaction will be fine. I really like the internet quote approach, and the salesman I've been working with seems very pleasant and low-key. I'm really not impressed with Mr. "red flag" at the other dealership, however, who I guess is doing his best to keep up the traditional bad image of auto salespeople.
Spouse and I buy cars exceedingly rarely since our usual practice is to buy new, maintain properly and drive until dead. However, since I just arranged a new car purchase, I'd say that the internet information availability has been pushing both auto salespeople and consumers towards more simplicity and directness, but we're not all there yet.
I visited one dealer and requested internet quotes from 3 others. One of the internet quotes was around $700 less than the other quotes, which were all within a $200 range. I went with the low one. One of the other quoters phoned me and when I said I'd gotten a much cheaper quote, sputtered a lot about how in the age of internet, pricing is transparent, all quotes should be within $100 or $200 of each other, and anything much lower was a "red flag" that should indicate to me that "something is wrong". He said if I'd forward him the lower quote email, he'd speak to his manager and try to see if there was any way they could match it, although he doubted it.
I said that I didn't feel inclined to share this competitive information with him, and if he could at best match the competitor's quote, then I'd prefer to deal with the person originally quoted that price. That would seem more fair.
When I visited the "lowball" dealership to make a deposit, it turned out to be a huge operation with the usual fancy showroom etc. My salesman said they're one of the highest volume dealerships in the state, which I presume accounts to some extent for their ability to offer more aggressive pricing. We don't pick up the car until tomorrow, but I'm optimistic this transaction will be fine. I really like the internet quote approach, and the salesman I've been working with seems very pleasant and low-key. I'm really not impressed with Mr. "red flag" at the other dealership, however, who I guess is doing his best to keep up the traditional bad image of auto salespeople.
I work in the internet department and know that all my leads are getting quotes from 4 other dealerships (the different sites will send your info to the 5 nearest dealerships from your zip code). The difference here is in the disclaimer, usuall in small type in italics. Some will send a price without the destination and handling included (usually $700 - $800 range), most will have accessories added at the dealership not included (window tint, pin stripe, wheel locks, etc). Since all dealerships buy vehicles from the manufacturer at the same price and all have the same incentives from the manufacturer, if one is quoting you substantially less than others, its a good chance there are red flags, such as they did not quote you the above info.
When I first started in the internet, we tinted all our cars (most Texans want tint anyway) and had a pin stripe. $199 for the tint, $149 for the pin stripe. Yes, there is mark up, but hey its a business and businesses usually exist to make a profit. I would send a quote for $300 over invoice (on a vehicle with no other incentive) and would think, gosh, when I bought a car, would think this was a great deal.
Then I would get an email back from the customer that ABC dealer down the road sent a price for $1,000 behind invoice. Found out that ABC had over $3,000 worth of dealer added equipment. So he thought his deal at ABC was $1200 better when in actuality my deal was $1352 better. So your red flag guy might not be blowing smoke.
I'll let you know, but the striking thing was that the lowball guy's email contained a whole bunch of boilerplate about how their dealership is committed to honest pricing and that the price they quote is the complete "drive-out" price. It pointed out that "other dealers" may engage in the exact practices you describe, but they do not do that, so they claim.
Nobody else's emails mentioned this topic, although their prices were higher. Therefore, I'll be exceedingly shocked and disappointed if this dealer tries to pull the tactics that they alone committed to not do. They even asked for my county of residence so they could quote the exact price including all taxes and fees.
I'll let you know, but the striking thing was that the lowball guy's email contained a whole bunch of boilerplate about how their dealership is committed to honest pricing and that the price they quote is the complete "drive-out" price. It pointed out that "other dealers" may engage in the exact practices you describe, but they do not do that, so they claim.
Nobody else's emails mentioned this topic, although their prices were higher. Therefore, I'll be exceedingly shocked and disappointed if this dealer tries to pull the tactics that they alone committed to not do. They even asked for my county of residence so they could quote the exact price including all taxes and fees.
Sounds like you found a guy that does business the way I do it. Well done!
I would of loved to do this program, but I haven't had my car for a year yet . The details say you have to have the car insured for a year or more....
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. The details say you have to have the car insured for a year or more....
