Laminate vs. Engineered Wood Flooring (Austin, Howe: appointed, how much, townhouse)

[Austin97]

Originally Posted by Gestbsjgd

Can anyone attest to the earlier comment about solid hardwood being a bad decision for our climate? The kind I'm thinking about is 3/4" thick and would be glued down to a concrete slab which has been treated with a moisture barrier (or maybe use an all-in-one glue), so I'm wondering if I would still run into warping issues.



Some of it looks really nice (like this). I would put it in smaller spaces like a bathroom, but tile is too cold under my feet to use everywhere. Just a personal preference, but I'd rather have real wood for bedrooms and living spaces.

there is a limit to how thick most will lay down (3/8"-5/8" probably). The reason is that the thicker the wood the more moisture it can absorb. Swelling in the wood can cause buckling and even explosions from the pressure.

most flooring companies wont install hardwood right over concrete, but will over a wood subfloor. We have brazilian cherry ( 3/8") over our concrete on the first floor with no problems but had to talk to several flooring companies before finding one that would do it. They have to do moisture measurements and spread a good layer of liquid moisture barrier. Some companies have a combo glue/moisture barrier.

Even though it is 3/8" the amount you can refinish is limited because you start hitting the tongue and groove. So you can refinish it maybe 3 times. Engineered now comes with real wood laminates that let you finish the same amount. The engineered portion has wood fibers running in all directions which makes it much more stable as it absorbs moisture from the air.

[Austin97]

Originally Posted by blakely

\
Note: I have solid hardwood in my home now without any problems, but it was installed over subflooring above the slab. It's been here for 15+ years and looks great. But I would never glue solid wood straight to slab- you need an engineered floor with a solid wear layer on top to be able to do that.

this is an untrue statement. You just need a good glue with a moisture barrier. You also should measure the moisture in the slab (some might not be candidates at all).

We are going on 10 years and the floor is great, glued directly to the concrete. And yes many companies would not do it, but some said that it would be fine and they could do it.

[blakely]

Originally Posted by Austin97

this is an untrue statement. You just need a good glue with a moisture barrier. You also should measure the moisture in the slab (some might not be candidates at all).

We are going on 10 years and the floor is great, glued directly to the concrete. And yes many companies would not do it, but some said that it would be fine and they could do it.

Yes, it's done. Just depends on who installs your floor and the specific flooring materials used.

[Gestbsjgd]

Thanks for the detailed advice, guys. The glue/moisture barrier combo is what I was thinking. The slab is almost 40 years old, and I've had the old flooring removed for a while now and haven't seen any evidence of moisture seeping through, but I'll do a more thorough test to be sure.

[riaelise]

Originally Posted by Leaving Arizona

How about that latest trend, ceramic tile that looks like wood planking? Durable, looks good, holds up to abuse...

that is an excellent choice as well. considering installing that in our bathroom.

[MrCurmudgeon]

Originally Posted by Leaving Arizona

How about that latest trend, ceramic tile that looks like wood planking? Durable, looks good, holds up to abuse...

Not fooling anyone, in my opinion. I'd put down money that this stuff will be among the first looks from the current era to look dated and cheap. Go wood or go tile, don't try to have it all.

[10scoachrick]

Originally Posted by MrCurmudgeon

Not fooling anyone, in my opinion. I'd put down money that this stuff will be among the first looks from the current era to look dated and cheap. Go wood or go tile, don't try to have it all.

I wasn't thinking in such extreme terms; but I reckon the overuse of the wood-look tile could surely date a home(or remodel) along the same lines as the sad inclusion of seamed metal roofing on a tiny portion of the front elevation(no apparent benefit...just a design 'bug', IMO). A bit like the Atlanta homes that had brick, stone, cedar AND copper all on the front elevation...pre-downturn.

[cBach]

Originally Posted by G Grasshopper

Does it not bother people to have basically a plastic floor (laminate)?

Interesting point. If there is a fire, that floor would be melting. I can't imagine the stench.

A firefighter I knew used to say that homes with siding were the worst to fight, the siding would literally be melting onto their suits and if any people got trapped inside, the melting siding would severely burn them.

[AustinDude360]

Originally Posted by AustinDude360

I'll call up the manufacturer of the hardwood. I have the original box in the garage. Thanks

So I talked to a few refinishing folks and they said they can't refinish it a different color and can only high gross it .

Guess I'm stuck with that color downstairs...Now I have to figure it should I pull it out and replace the whole thing with laminate downstairs or just match the additional areas I want to add hardwood to the current. I think most people just rip out and start out since colors are hard to match right

[riaelise]

Originally Posted by AustinDude360

So I talked to a few refinishing folks and they said they can't refinish it a different color and can only high gross it .

Guess I'm stuck with that color downstairs...Now I have to figure it should I pull it out and replace the whole thing with laminate downstairs or just match the additional areas I want to add hardwood to the current. I think most people just rip out and start out since colors are hard to match right

Go with what is cost efficient for you, honestly. I had two different colors of laminate flooring -- our first floor was dark walnut and the second story was berbau (a red-brown looking wood). No problem at all come sale time.

The stairs break things up, so it's almost like having two houses stacked on top of each other visually. It is a turnoff to have mismatched next to each other. Chances are you have carpet on the stairs, so that will also show division between the two floor colors. If you want to rip the beat up engineered because it looks bad and beyond restoration, then feel free to replace with whatever you want. But don't do it just based on having two different colors.

BTW darker wood is en vogue, with the caveat being that it does show wear more often than not.