Stuck bleeder screws

[sofawala]

1. Add brake fluid to the Motive Power Brake Bleeder tank.

2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize.

3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system.

For more info visit: MOD CUT

[Mac_Muz]

Gimmie, Would you belive 66 hours total? I did oil the frame with a blow wand and ATF. Remember the rear axels had to come out and a new filler fitting and bolt had to be made and welded on the punkin cover. New rear axel seals were in stalled because the seal base metal was rusted out.

New halo parking brake shoes, new cables, all that left oem is 4 calipers the master and the ABS.

I made a fast and dirty rocker patch too, formed sheet metal screwed on, and rock guarded. 3 self tapping screws broke thru what left of the rocker and I had to create a odd pattern of that.

The rockers need a total over haul on both sides.

[Gimme3steps]

66 hours? That wasn't just a job, that was an adventure. Hope you were paid well for your time.

[Mac_Muz]

The pay remains to be seen. The truck hasn't been delivered yet. The rock guard is still dying.
I got 20 pounds of rust flakes to add to the compost

Weird chevy IMO. corse threads on the ft bleeders, fine threads on the rear. 3 oem sizes for brake lines and 4 now with 7 adapters. Still Chevy is 1/2 metric! And with odd sizes IMO like 15mm, and 18mm, and of course so rusty the 13mm's were a mix of 1/2" and 12mm using a hammer to drive on 6 point sockets.

With out air and oxy actelene I would never have been able to do this, and no one else would have either, with out them.

I think maybe yer' right it was an adventure. I sure am glad it's a done deal and there is no leaks now. I did find 3 leaks at 3 of calipers with the new copper crush washers and their banjo bolts.

IMO an engineering nightmare. It's as if everything in the past 100 years has been forgotten.

[Old98]

All of the informations sounds doable , I hadn't thought about it till my brake lines broke and ran all the fluid out if the master cylinder ,but the screws in my 98 Ram ,has already ad someone pretending to take the things loose and I seriously do not expect to get them out ,so like the one person mentioned as much as I hate to, I think I'll do the same thing as when I change the brakes pads and shoes all alike ,I open the main brake fluid cylinder ,have my wife or etc stand ther with a bottle of brake fluid and I use a hand operated wood vice and push the Pistons all the way in on the brakes getting rid of all the air ,it's gonna be a pain taking off 4 wheels and undoing 4 brakes that are relatively new ,but a broken bleed screw is not something I'd look forward to in the least,so thanks for reminding me that I can always do it the hard way and still be safe ,shoot taking the big old tires off is the worst part. thanks again , to be honest I thought that maybe if I emptied some air/ fluid right on the back of the brake bleeder screw it would work, but I think that I'm wrong so it just shot out fluid and no air ,so that's impossible there a ton if air in them brakes front it back or both .

[Uncle D]

use PB Blaster penetrating fluid it's the best then a 6 point socket and tap the ratchet to the left wait a couple mins and tap again do this 3 or 4 times and it will come loose

[meanmachine]

im looking for the front to back valve sequence on a 409