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Yeah, looks like a 4WD 2013 Navigator w/ 25K miles will go for $37-40K at auction.
FYI, a 2013 Yukon Denali AWD with ~20K miles is going for $40-45K at auction.
Crazy.
I'm in the market for a new 2015 Yukon Denali or 2015 Expedition Limited. Not much competition in this market and GM has the best car. Too bad they are so freaking expensive. Ugh. Not interested in older models, want push button start, adaptive CC, Heads Up Display, collision warning, HIDs, LEDs, etc.
I did see a site that gave values and it did say average Navigator wholesale 2013 33,000. I can't. Find it now. Looks like the demand is back of big SUVs..........lower gas prices will do that . That would make since taking it to auction, lots of demand could bring more than book value !
Yes , I have owned many Suburbans , they are best, no doubt. I think this Navigator has a better interior however. You should check it out ! I had same thing 2 years ago, Dodge/ Cumins mega cabs were hot. I sold mine to a dealer from Cleveland , that's all he did was chase trucks for waiting customers. It sold quick for 75 percent of what I paid for it new. That and sale of older coach, I turned into a Country Coach bus converson, well almost anyway....
The car is in pristine condition. Visual inspection by mechanic and vehicle history report are complete. "On the lift" inspection by my mechanic is pending. Will obtain service record history (thank you for the suggestion).
All things being equal, the price the dealer paid at auction is pivotal to the negotiation of price, wouldn't you say? I'm not a "monthly payment" buyer; I'm interested in only one number: the price I pay for the car. I don't have a problem with the dealer earning a fair profit, but obviously want to leverage a fair price for myself in the process.
Even a ballpark idea of what is typically paid at auction would be better than nothing.
Price can vary from vehicle to vehicle. Color, trim ,options, overall visual appeal and demand make a difference. Make a educated appraisal on that particular vehicle and make your offer. You can walk in say your price and lay cash on the table. Them getting a good deal by no means indicates you're gonna get a good deal. Sorry man. But gas prices won't stay low forever either.
I'm looking at buying a 2007 vehicle that was turned into Dealership A at the conclusion of the lease. The AutoCheck report says Dealer B acquired it at auction. Is there any way for me to find out what Dealer B paid for it at auction (either the actual transaction or using the dealer black book)?
Doesn't matter what he paid for it at auction. What matters is what the car is actually worth to you. Look up the value of the car using common guides such as NADA, KBB, or Edmunds and identify the current market value in your area. Choose what you are willing to pay for the vehicle based on condition and that market value. If you want a great deal, I personally suggest using a preset percentage of Edmunds values, they are more in line with market and not supportive of dealer beneficial pricing like NADA (National Dealers Association) or KBB (Kelley Blue Book) which are generally higher.
Example: 2012 Dodge Charger RT with 45,000 miles
NADA (clean condition) Rough Trade value $17,675; Avg Trade $19,300; Clean Trade $20,625; Clean Retail $23,500
KBB (Good condition) Private Party $20,408; Dealer Fair Market $23,262; Certified from Dealer $24,262
Edmunds (Clean condition) Trade In value $16,622; Private Party $18,402; Dealer $19,859
A quick Autotrader search shows me with 10 within 100 miles under 45,000 miles priced between $22,900 and $25,330 so I know what my local market is getting for these cars.
Using this example you, as the buyer, need to decide what value you put on the car you want. If it was a 2012 Dodge Charger RT under 45,000 miles, what would you be willing to pay? How frugal are you versus how much do you want/need that car? What are you willing to sacrifice? Pay less but take more miles? Pick the cleanest and lowest mileage available and shoot for a predetermined price?
It is all very subjective because the value is in the mind of the buyer.
Doesn't matter what he paid for it at auction. What matters is what the car is actually worth to you. Look up the value of the car using common guides such as NADA, KBB, or Edmunds and identify the current market value in your area. Choose what you are willing to pay for the vehicle based on condition and that market value. If you want a great deal, I personally suggest using a preset percentage of Edmunds values, they are more in line with market and not supportive of dealer beneficial pricing like NADA (National Dealers Association) or KBB (Kelley Blue Book) which are generally higher.
Example: 2012 Dodge Charger RT with 45,000 miles
NADA (clean condition) Rough Trade value $17,675; Avg Trade $19,300; Clean Trade $20,625; Clean Retail $23,500
KBB (Good condition) Private Party $20,408; Dealer Fair Market $23,262; Certified from Dealer $24,262
Edmunds (Clean condition) Trade In value $16,622; Private Party $18,402; Dealer $19,859
A quick Autotrader search shows me with 10 within 100 miles under 45,000 miles priced between $22,900 and $25,330 so I know what my local market is getting for these cars.
Using this example you, as the buyer, need to decide what value you put on the car you want. If it was a 2012 Dodge Charger RT under 45,000 miles, what would you be willing to pay? How frugal are you versus how much do you want/need that car? What are you willing to sacrifice? Pay less but take more miles? Pick the cleanest and lowest mileage available and shoot for a predetermined price?
It is all very subjective because the value is in the mind of the buyer.
I disagree, " what would you be willing to pay "? No, it's not subjective, unless it's a special rare vehicle and or a collector car. Even then there are apprized values, ( stated value insurance policy's) , eBay , Auction sales etc. the average vehicle discussed here was made in the thousands, there are lots of choices, but the price you pay is not set by the buyer, just too many cars all alike.
It's pretty obvious that most of the respondents to the question are dealers interested in protecting their own interests. Well guess what, so is the consumer. Knowing what a dealer paid for a vehicle can be instrumental to your negotiation. Why not get the best deal you can? Knowing that info will help. Every consumer has the right to inform himself or herself of all the details. Find out who the auctioneer is and use the VIN to get your answer. That may work. Good luck.
It's pretty obvious that most of the respondents to the question are dealers interested in protecting their own interests. Well guess what, so is the consumer. Knowing what a dealer paid for a vehicle can be instrumental to your negotiation. Why not get the best deal you can? Knowing that info will help. Every consumer has the right to inform himself or herself of all the details. Find out who the auctioneer is and use the VIN to get your answer. That may work. Good luck.
You don't have a right to know what a product's cost is.
It's pretty obvious that most of the respondents to the question are dealers interested in protecting their own interests. Well guess what, so is the consumer. Knowing what a dealer paid for a vehicle can be instrumental to your negotiation. Why not get the best deal you can? Knowing that info will help. Every consumer has the right to inform himself or herself of all the details. Find out who the auctioneer is and use the VIN to get your answer. That may work. Good luck.
No it's pretty obvious that most of the respondents understand that the customer has no right to know what the seller paid for a product.
If the price for a product is more than you think it should be then don't buy it.
I hope you never find out the mark up on clothes or jewelry.
When I was shopping in 2014 I diid find the auction listing for one car, by googling the VIN from the dealers online ad. One result was a spreadsheeot of the auction results. It was not up for very long however, only a few days.
When I was shopping in 2014 I diid find the auction listing for one car, by googling the VIN from the dealers online ad. One result was a spreadsheeot of the auction results. It was not up for very long however, only a few days.
On Manheim I can only check back a month of prior sales.
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demand transparency
