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GTOlover see my edited post. I planning on getting a electric choke this week.
cool that should help on cold starts
your card is still to big IMO it is intended for lightweight vehicles w/ manual trans or automatics with high stall & low gearing so a smaller street carb might be the better way to go
something like this holley 600CFM street http://www.holley.com/0-80457S.asp
automatics with high stall & low gearing so a smaller street carb might be the better way to go
I swap out the stock stall and 3.05 gear I think it had to a 2800/3000 stall on 3.73 gearing so I'm no longer able to get at highway speed without leaking through the rear trans seals. I should of listen to my pops 11 years ago when he said dont go performance if you have no ideal of what you doing. Too late now I'm waist deep in **** now. Cant tell a 22 year nothing with the thought of bigger is better attitude.
I swap out the stock stall and 3.05 gear I think it had to a 2800/3000 stall on 3.73 gearing so I'm no longer able to get at highway speed without leaking through the rear trans seals. I should of listen to my pops 11 years ago when he said dont go performance if you have no ideal of what you doing. Too late now I'm waist deep in **** now. Cant tell a 22 year nothing with the thought of bigger is better attitude.
wow ok, for a 750DP you have way to much carb if you had a 4000 stall converter and 4.56 gears. It would be great, but that would mean you now have a full on drag car that is not very good on the street.
this car has a 750DP but it runs 468CI Big block chevy and runs a 170+ gph fuel pump but it needs that kind of flow
as for being young and going for the biggest baddest parts trust me everyone has been there
NOw here is major issue you need to fix ASAP: your tranny leaking
Transmission fluid, such as that fluid that will leak from your car if the rear transmission seal is leaking,. If you have an automatic vehicle, the transmission fluid serves a dual purpose. Not only does it lubricate the internal parts of your transmission, it also serves as a coolant and it transmits power from the engine to the transmission. Now, before you go trying to change your transmission fluid, wait. Changing transmission fluid, unlike changing oil, is a difficult process and unless you are a highly skilled mechanic it is a process better left to the professionals.
The rear transmission seal, on the other hand, can often be changed at home if you have a little car know how just follow all the steps. Many tutorials about changing rear transmission seals can be found online. Also, this repair is quick and easy. It just takes a few simple hand tools and can often be done within an hour or, if you are an experienced mechanic.
You only need a 750 cfm carb on a 383 stroker if you're going to be turning 6800's. Which a 383 stroker is a torque engine so no need to spin it IMO. Not to mention unless if the engine is built to be spun that high.
But as for the rich smell, sounds like you're fuel mixture is not right. I'd look into ensuring the power valve is not blown and is the correct one.
Also fuel injection does not mean you can't/won't run rich; yes you can especially if your chip is burned on the rich side.
The oil you're running probably isn't needed unless you have extra clearances. I run 10W-30 in any small block Chevy I've ever owned w/o issues.
NOw here is major issue you need to fix ASAP: your tranny leaking.
the seals are fine I only had that problem when I tried to make a 40 miles trip to the Southside of Chicago. I guessing it was too much stress on the trans from the rear gear setup and high rpms at 70/80 mph. I have a 4 in 1 digital rpm meter coming this week so I can monitor my rpms
I discover that the seals was leaking when I notice smoke coming from under the hood from the oil burning on the header leaking through my valve breathers. So I pulled over to confirm the problem was oil overflow and I noticed a trans puddle. After I got my speed down to 50mph I was fine the leak stopped. Too much oil cause the oil overflowing through the breathers. I didn't tighten the oil filter on a oil change so I lost alot of oil so I added another 4 quarts without dropping the remaining oil.
The oil you're running probably isn't needed unless you have extra clearances. I run 10W-30 in any small block Chevy I've ever owned w/o issues.
the guy who built the engine said to use 20/50 performance oil according to his specs. I lost the spec but I do know I have double springs, roller rockers and a high pin setup.
You only need a 750 cfm carb on a 383 stroker if you're going to be turning 6800's. Which a 383 stroker is a torque engine so no need to spin it IMO. Not to mention unless if the engine is built to be spun that high.
But as for the rich smell, sounds like you're fuel mixture is not right. I'd look into ensuring the power valve is not blown and is the correct one.
Also fuel injection does not mean you can't/won't run rich; yes you can especially if your chip is burned on the rich side.
The oil you're running probably isn't needed unless you have extra clearances. I run 10W-30 in any small block Chevy I've ever owned w/o issues.
wow 6800 on a 383 you he would would need some big heads to make power at those RPMs. atleast a inexpensive aluminum head like the DART Pro 1's 215 cc intake port. Drop a little coin getting them mildly ported and they will outflow AFR's and Brodix heads and still be several hundred cheaper.
for block reliability I would either go for used NASCAR stuff since its the best of the best. or brand new good $$$ aftermarket for the rotating assembly.You can buy NASCAR shortblocks for $4000 (hey this is how I would build it)
a nice solid roller cam best to have for those RPMs
b. a stout race flat tappet will do. Tight lobe seperation and a duration at 50 of around 260 degrees will be great. get a circle track lobe since they are softer and easier on the valvetrain since if want to drive it on the street. Run 7/16" studs and 1.5 ratio rockers and add a stud girdle.
that is pretty insane for a street car but if the OP has a motor like that then he spent alot of $$$$ on it and it a little unburned fuel is ok.
anywatys Every one wants something for nothing, free horsepower, money for nothing and chicks for free. Or something like that.
the seals are fine I only had that problem when I tried to make a 40 miles trip to the Southside of Chicago. I guessing it was too much stress on the trans from the rear gear setup and high rpms at 70/80 mph. I have a 4 in 1 digital rpm meter coming this week so I can monitor my rpms
I discover that the seals was leaking when I notice smoke coming from under the hood from the oil burning on the header leaking through my valve breathers. So I pulled over to confirm the problem was oil overflow and I noticed a trans puddle. After I got my speed down to 50mph I was fine the leak stopped. Too much oil cause the oil overflowing through the breathers. I didn't tighten the oil filter on a oil change so I lost alot of oil so I added another 4 quarts without dropping the remaining oil.
no regular tach?
a cheap used autometer tach would be fine and a better choice IMO even the autogauge series will do the trick like this
I run 4.11's in my F250 and 80MPH is nothing for it is just doing the speed limit. I do have a ZF-5 speed manual but still even with a 3-speed TH-350 you should be able to do 80 with 3.73's with no issues.
There is a terrific amount of load incurred from eight connecting rods swinging through 4 inches of oil. After being driven for about so many miles, and excessive air bubbles in the oil will finally its toll on the rod and main bearings.
wow umm not sure what to say here on your car other than it will be a heck of a learning experience. what are you looking to get out of your car all out performance or a streetable car?
GTOlover the tach was $80. I wanting to replace the small oil pressure and water temp gauge under the dash to a unit that will be easier to read out and have everything displayed all in one unit. If its pancake enough and the same size dia. of the clock gauge in the dash I will try to install it in there, if not it will go on the center console.
I want both streetable and some performance, the crate motor was built to have 440hp at the crank. The name for it back then by the builder was a Camel Hump 383 stroker. Dart cast iron heads. I paid $4000 in 2001. None of the stuff came with it work with this motor. The Carter 650cfm, holley manuel pump, and vacuum distributer. I will try to adjust the air to gas mixture this weekend giving it more air. Changing the carb isnot an option at this point unless this carb burns out.
? how will the electric choke work if the butterflies has to be wide open to start the car and keep it running.
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