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Taking all the necessary safety precautions like chocking the wheels, applying the parking brake, car in park (auto trans) or neutral (manual trans) etc, and with everything connected, hit on the starter with a hammer while you have someone hold the key to the start position. Don't hit it like you're trying to break the housing but don't just barely tap it either. And don't hold the key over more than about 10 seconds at a time.
If it then cranks or makes a different sound most likely the starter is bad.
There's a big difference between A-Zone testing your starter on the bench and it actually cranking your engine.
Taking all the necessary safety precautions like chocking the wheels, applying the parking brake, car in park (auto trans) or neutral (manual trans) etc, and with everything connected, hit on the starter with a hammer while you have someone hold the key to the start position. Don't hit it like you're trying to break the housing but don't just barely tap it either. And don't hold the key over more than about 10 seconds at a time.
If it then cranks or makes a different sound most likely the starter is bad.
There's a big difference between A-Zone testing your starter on the bench and it actually cranking your engine.
I'll try tapping it and then try to start.
I have no one to help me on it.
That reminds me of a Toyota starter that would over heat and fail to work. I could pour cold water on in, and it would start, to get me through my delivery route.
If you're getting power to the solenoid then odd your ignition switch in vehicle is probably working correctly. The next step would be to check power going to the starter. If you can get the starter lead off, you should be able to verify if you're indeed getting 12v to the starter as well, or if you're getting less, or none at all.
Typically the "clicking" noise you hear with a starter is the solenoid opening or closing. The buzzing noise from the starter would sound like a motor trying to turn but not having juice, where as a whirring sound from the starter would most likely be the starter turning but the gear not engaging. A stripped gear would be incredibly obvious once you had the starter removed.
The random electrical "hum" could be anything in your vehicle reacting to electrical current not going where it's supposed to go. I wouldn't necessarily say it's related, or unrelated. We tend to hear EVERY strange sound our vehicle makes when we're trying to diagnose whether or not the car is making any strange noises.
Based on your lack of the "clicking" sound from the solenoid, my guess would be it's your problem. But you won't know until you can check voltage downstream of the solenoid between it and the starter. If the new starter comes with a new solenoid already attached (not sure how Mitsubishi constructs them) I'd just spring for the $109.00 starter as it's most likely your culprit.
I hear something, but it is more like a hum than a click.
I'm familiar with the normal click sound.
A tow bill might be $50 to the mechanic.
I might as well just get a new starter for $109.00 and hope that is the problem.
I've lost starters before but got warnings, not 1 "no start" in June and 1 "no start" 3 weeks later.
The hum maybe the electric fuel pump priming the line to pressure.
I headed to the parts house for a new starter, but stopped at the local u-pull-it yard. Their starters were only $15.00 and $1.00 per day warranty. I looked at 4 of their Galants and found two like mine.
I decided to go that way. There was some environmental fee, but the total was under $20.00.
I installed the starter from the u-pull-it yard, and the car cranked up. The starter looked alot newer than the mileage that showed on the odometer. I'll take them my core and get the $5.00 core charge back. So, in June it would not start and the starter and battery were removed, and checked and tested good, and the car then started. Then here in July, it would not start, and now I'm on the road again with a new-used starter with unknown miles on it.
So, two removals and installations, and $20 in cost.
Howard, make sure there is no battery acid corrosion on the cables where they connect to the starter and to the block (ground).
I once had a battery come loose and a fan belt pulley grind it's way through the side of the battery, spewing battery acid all over the place as I drove along unaware (and wondering what was the funny smell). Some of it flowed along the negative cable from the battery down to where the cable connected to the engine block to provide an electrical ground. That tiny bit of acid set up a thin film of powdery blue corrosion between the cable and the block, preventing a complete electrical circuit and causing the car not to start. Corrective action took only a few minutes to undo the cable from the engine block, wipe the corrosion off of the metal end with a piece of sandpaper, and then re-attach it, at which time the car started up and I had no more issues.
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Howard, make sure there is no battery acid corrosion on the cables where they connect to the starter and to the block (ground).
I once had a battery come loose and a fan belt pulley grind it's way through the side of the battery, spewing battery acid all over the place as I drove along unaware (and wondering what was the funny smell). Some of it flowed along the negative cable from the battery down to where the cable connected to the engine block to provide an electrical ground. That tiny bit of acid set up a thin film of powdery blue corrosion between the cable and the block, preventing a complete electrical circuit and causing the car not to start. Corrective action took only a few minutes to undo the cable from the engine block, wipe the corrosion off of the metal end with a piece of sandpaper, and then re-attach it, at which time the car started up and I had no more issues.
I'll keep that in mind going forward.
My battery compartment is rather crowded and I was unable to bolt it down, but will. It's on the opposite end of the belts though.
car would not turn over ck and battary was bad install a new car battary ck my vlots on my new battary 12.74 volts ok the new battary would not do any thing either, it the car over nite volts readed 10.62 volts what is my problems here please thanks billy ga,
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