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WD-40 works great for this and anything electrical. It won't hurt it.
You don't want to use any petroleum-base lubricant such as WD-40 on electrical contacts. However, the ignition switch lock/key hole does not have electrical contacts, so WD-40 is OK to use.
Use electrical contact cleaner (comes in spray cans) for any place where there are electrical contacts, and such. WD-40 conducts electricity.
What I have found works well here is to dip the key into ATF, then put the damp but not dripping wet key into the lock.
Different cars feature different levels of integration of the lock and the actual electrical switch, if they are tightly joined WD-40 is one of the few lubes that probably won't cause problems with the switch.
But a small amount of ATF has always worked for me.
HI MITCH.. I HAVE A 1978 DODGE 1 TON B300 SPORTSMAN CAMPER WITH THE IGNITION ON THE COLUMN
I THINK IT IS A (EBAY Standard Motor Products US99L Ignition Lock Cylinder
172077213128 ) AND IT'S NOT SPRINGING BACK WHEN I'M STARTING IT, AND THE LIGHTS STAY ON UNTIL I PULL THE KEY BACK A LITTLE BIT.. JUST ENOUGH TO KEEP IT GOING AND TURN THE STARTING LIGHTS OFF..
WOULD IT HURT TO USE THE WD-40 AND THEN USE A HIGH POWER VACUUM TO SUCK OUT ALL THE STUFF THAT HAS GOTTEN IN THERE AND YES, INCLUDING GRAPHITE!! I USED THAT A LOT OVER THE YEARS..
PLEASE ADVISE.
they actually have a tube of dry powder graphite that you can buy in most key lock areas in the big box stores and walmart , its a very fine powder and will not cause any collection of debris. cheers!
I can tell you from PERSONAL experience, if the ignition switch is getting sticky REPLACE it while the key can still turn and the switch is "easy" to change, if it locks up you are stuck wherever you are and repair is no longer "easy" and can get somewhat costly.
Over time, tiny bits of metal that wears off of your key during insertion and removal will combine with dust to gunk up the ignition switch. It is best to remove the ignition switch (easier said than done on some cars) and generously spray it with a light, evaporative cleaner to flush out the gunk. Then after it is dry, use graphite to re-lubricate it.
Have your VIN number handy, and go to a dealer and have them cut a BRAND NEW KEY. A key cut to the VIN's specs is a far more accurate replica of what will fit your specific ignition than a retrace of an old, existing key.
The problem is your key is worn out. It is made of a softer alloy than the tumbler, and will wear out first. Lubricating the ignition/tumbler/lock cylinder is not the correct solution! Try replacing the key before you replace the ignition!
If your existing key is also not opening the door locks smoothly, that's another sign it's worn out..
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