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with a 350 SB Chevy stuffed into it. It overheats. The facts as I've witnessed them:
120-150 Psi on all cylinders
No more than 25% leak down (I'm not entirely sure what that means besides the obvious)
engine runs great
no fluis is in contact with other fluids
no fluid is leaking out of it
idles for 10-15 minutes, then over heats
after initial startup, temp climbs to about 170, sits there for a few, then rolls up to 190, sits for a few then climbs until we shut it off
new 180 degree t-stat, it works visibly
20+ degree drop across radiator until the car overheats, then no drop when car over heats
visible water flow in auxiliary fill port at top of engine compartment
electric water pump and fans all seem to be working fine
I may have forgotten something. I'm not a mechanic, but know the basics. There is a mechanic (the friend) who manages all the cars this other friend (of a friend) owns.
First issue is that there is not enough airflow thru the radiator. Second is because of the cramped area the engine is in, there is no airflow across the engine. Unless he has aluminum heads, 35 gph or better water pump, and a "pass thru" water travel system, (that means the water/anti-freeze/coolant flows thru the engine front to rear or rear to front but not back thru before exiting the engine) there is no chance of keeping it cool.
A friend of mine did this swap and until he added side airintake scoops with electric fans for when the car wasn't moving, it overheated. He finally added a Corvette raditor up front for it, with a homemade air scoop under the car with sealed ducting thru the raditor with side front fender air exits, it over heated.
Location: Democratic Peoples Republic of Redneckistan
11,078 posts, read 15,080,865 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vmaxnc
with a 350 SB Chevy stuffed into it. It overheats. The facts as I've witnessed them:
120-150 Psi on all cylinders
No more than 25% leak down (I'm not entirely sure what that means besides the obvious)
engine runs great
no fluis is in contact with other fluids
no fluid is leaking out of it
idles for 10-15 minutes, then over heats
after initial startup, temp climbs to about 170, sits there for a few, then rolls up to 190, sits for a few then climbs until we shut it off
new 180 degree t-stat, it works visibly
20+ degree drop across radiator until the car overheats, then no drop when car over heats
visible water flow in auxiliary fill port at top of engine compartment
electric water pump and fans all seem to be working fine
I may have forgotten something. I'm not a mechanic, but know the basics. There is a mechanic (the friend) who manages all the cars this other friend (of a friend) owns.
Thoughts?
Back when this was a really popular swap they had loads of trouble like that...I'd say there are probably more than a few posts on sites that mess with a lot of Fieros.
My neighbor had one that he was working on back in the day,but he never got it off the ground to my knowledge.
Try turning on the AC when it starts to overheat. Turning on the AC triggers the fan motor. On my car, when idling, the fan will nto come on and the car overheats. If I turn on the AC it drops right down. Needs a new fan relay.
This was a real popular swap and overheating was a common issue as the radiator was simply too small for the engine and you needed to bring in greater air flow to the engine bay as well. Hit up some Fiero forums and do some googling to see how some people got around it. The fix could be as simple as a different radiator.
Location: Democratic Peoples Republic of Redneckistan
11,078 posts, read 15,080,865 times
Reputation: 3937
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJGOAT
This was a real popular swap and overheating was a common issue as the radiator was simply too small for the engine and you needed to bring in greater air flow to the engine bay as well. Hit up some Fiero forums and do some googling to see how some people got around it. The fix could be as simple as a different radiator.
Yes or electric fans/electric water pump.
That was a downfall of that swap...well,one of many
I woudl check with V8 Archie to see what they have done to get around it, as they have built many that are daily drivers and don't have overheating issues.
It has a dual core all aluminum radiator up front, with at least as much airflow as any normal front engine setup. Electric water pump and fans. For now the fan relay is bypassed so fans run constantly. The car isn't being driven because of the problem. All this happens at idle.
If someone is interested, here is the cl thread I started:
Has it overheated from day one since the engine swap or is this a new problem?
Fiero's were notorious for air pockets in the cooling system since the upper and lower hoses/pipes are about 12ft long and are the lowest point of the cooling system.
I'd say it needs at least a 3, and better still a 4 row radiator core with upgraded fans.
I was going to say is the radiator big enough, you seem to say it is.
Are the fans sufficient and efficient?
And finally, this should be obvious, but the cooling system has been bled property right?
Ive also seen this on 240sx's, maybe to get some stagnant hot air out of htat engine bay prop the rear of the hood (closest to front windshield) up a 1/4 inch with some washers to vent that heat out.
also does the car overheat when moving, just cruising down the highway?
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