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I've dealt with autobytel and truecar, and these pretty much do the same thing as the "fax-attack" or "fax-blast" or whatever it is called. I think I can count on one hand the times it has gone as smoothly as "they come in hand me a check and drive out happy" but if we didn't need the deal we wouldn't take it, so go for it - if it works for you fine.
What I will say is be careful with the range button. Some people tend to look farther then they are really willing to travel. The internet makes it too easy.
Isn't the entire idea on getting the lowest price? Lets say that you contact 20 dealers and you end up getting 10 that send an actual bid. Remember it is just a bid on the price a dealer is willing to sell the car for. This doesn't mean that they are going to lose money on the sale of that car. The person buying would then take their best price and see if any of the other dealers can beat or meet that price. It would seem to me that you are looking at a probable sale and why not persue that sale? If you can meet the bid go for it, if it isn't worth your time then walk away.
I understand that for many of you that are in the business of selling a car this isn't the ideal situation for you. Still if the dealership can make even a small profit on the deal why turn it away? I am not saying do it for no profit. You have to put food on your own table. Still I am thinking that a dealer that walks away from the deal is also walking away from the chance to make some money and the customer is a person that is ready to buy right now. Your time is worth something and with this kind of deal isn't it possible to get the paperwork completed quicker?
I would think that their are ways to counter a bid that would make it more profitable and aggreable to both parties. Isn't it possible to counter with a higher price in exchange for maybe free service for a period of time. Heck I would offer free service for a year especially if I was 100 miles away from the person buying the car. LOL
thats the thing. Customers who do this sort of thing dont understand that the dealership needs to make a profit and they are way more of a pain in the ass than they are worth.
I understand that for many of you that are in the business of selling a car this isn't the ideal situation for you. Still if the dealership can make even a small profit on the deal why turn it away?
Because salesmen aren't really concerned with the dealership's profits. It's about the time you have to spend measured against the money you make. There's no money just for showing up to work, and you get paid off the profit on the car...but it has to be above a certain amount.
Wouldn't a car-savvy buyer get a better deal buying a CPO car rather than new anyway?
The warrenty on a CPO is about as good as new, and most of these cars have been reasonably well cared for...
When I see somebody buy a cheap new car, I always think how the same money would have bought more car if they went CPO, and with very little downside risk...
Wouldn't a car-savvy buyer get a better deal buying a CPO car rather than new anyway?
The warrenty on a CPO is about as good as new, and most of these cars have been reasonably well cared for...
When I see somebody buy a cheap new car, I always think how the same money would have bought more car if they went CPO, and with very little downside risk...
Not necessarily. Have you seen the price of used cars lately? A lot of times, with the incentives on a new car, the monetary difference is pretty small.
Because salesmen aren't really concerned with the dealership's profits. It's about the time you have to spend measured against the money you make. There's no money just for showing up to work, and you get paid off the profit on the car...but it has to be above a certain amount.
Salesmen should be concerned with the dealerships profits. I can see plenty of dealerships at the auto mall I pass each day on the way home and their are a few empty lots. The profitable dealerships are still selling cars. On a deal such as the one suggested the amount of time is minimal compared to a deal where you have a captive customer by your side. On top of that the fax or email bid process gives the dealership 3 days to put together a bid.
If I were calling in for a car, lets say a Fiat 500 Abarth as that is what I am interested in right now. Other than it being an Abarth model my only requirement is that the car is white. If the dealership has one that is white and is willing to send in what they sell it for the entire process would take maybe 5 minutes at most. Lets say that I end up with a low price and now send information asking if anyone can beat the low price. You either can do that or you can't. How long is it going to take to figure that out?
On a deal such as the one suggested the amount of time is minimal compared to a deal where you have a captive customer by your side.
No, it's not. That's what everyone who supports this stupid method likes to argue, but ask anyone who has actually sold cars and these are the worst possible deals with the most unhappy customers.
The Motley Fool is a financial site and they have a 13 Step process to buying a new car which should allow you to get a good price. Basically it involves spec'ing out every last detail of what you want in a vehicle and then, via fax, soliciting bids from every dealer within a specified (ie: 100 miles) radius. You then take the lowest bid, resend to all of the dealers, and ask them if they can beat it. You purchase from whoever does beat it. This is how large institutional buyers (ie: a business that needs a work truck or a courier van) purchase vehicles. I am thinking of using this process but there's one caveat-I'm not looking for a new car-I'm looking for a certified pre-owned 2009 with a specific set of options. First I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has used this method successfully, and next I'd be interested to hear if folks think it would work as well with a used car.
First off...if you are buying a USED car,stay the hell away from a dealer and save yourself AT LEAST 25-30% right off the bat.....NEVER buy a used car off one unless you just like donating to "their" charity.
NADA/KBB and those other "tricks of the trade" are a suckers bet...as is the "certified" BS...another BS trick of the trade to get in your pocket (GM gives you a 3 day/150 mile warranty on certified)
Get your mind made up on what vehicle you want...get on Ebay (not to buy,to look for the REAL price the vehicle is selling for)...go to the option to block viewing dealer's items...now look at what the actual BID is,not what they are asking,but what it's really bringing...put it on your watch list and see what it finally sells for..watch several and you'll get yourself a base price and idea what you'll be bargaining for.
NOW...start searching Craigslist/local classifieds etc.. see what you can find and remember to block the dealers in your viewing options...Cash talks so don't let a goofy asking price run you off right off the bat as the owner more than likely got hammered by a dealer and is just trying to get out without a total bath...when you find what you want,take it to an ASE certified mechanic ...they are just as good as anything working at a dealership and in most cases better due to the fact that they'll not lie like a dealer's mechanic will on a vehicle you are purchasing from the dealership he/she is working for..
If everything checks out at the mechanic's place,you know what the vehicle is actually worth,go offer it and see what happens...if you don't get that one,who cares,find another one
No, it's not. That's what everyone who supports this stupid method likes to argue, but ask anyone who has actually sold cars and these are the worst possible deals with the most unhappy customers.
How much time do you spend with a live customer by your side?
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