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My car wasn't starting and I was out at a shopping mall. Thankfully, I was near a auto parts store, so I ended up walking accross the street and had an associate do some diagnostic tests. They said to replace the battery and alternator. I bought and replaced the battery at the mall parking lot. But the alternator on the vehicle (Honda CR-V) is in an odd position and I'm going to have to take it to the dealership. I'm wondering how much it could cost.
It seems that they're have to remove the front bumber to even access the alternator because it's a weird position, so I'm a little worried that the "service fee" is going to be insane. Any ideas on how much it could cost to have an alternator replaced on a 2005 Honda CR-V.
But before you do that, I'd double-check to make sure the alternator needs to be replaced. Some counter-person at an auto parts store isn't necessarily your most reliable source.
I agree; if you're a member of the Auto Club, schedule an appointment to have your engine diagnosed.
Another alternative would be to take it to Jiffy Lube or a similar place for an oil change; when I had the oil changed six months ago on my 2007 Elantra with 47K miles on it, I was warned that my battery would need replacing soon.
Two weeks later, an Auto Club tow truck driver told me the same thing when he came out to jump start my car because the battery was dead.
A second opinion is never a bad idea, and can frequently save you some serious $$$$$.
When the battery is dead, before I replace the alternator I do the following:
a. Jump-start the vehicle, but fast enough to prevent charging the battery from the other vehicle, and see if the motor continues running long after removing the jumper cables from the dead battery. If the motor continues running without any problem, it means that the alternator is providing all the power needed by for the motor to continue running. While the motor is running, check the voltage from the alternator at the battery terminals. It should be higher than 13 volts for most vehicles (check the repair manual for your vehicle)
b. If you now turn the motor off and the battery is still dead (check the battery to make sure it's dead), then for some reason the battery is not holding a charge. Sometimes there is corrosion growing under the battery-cable terminals at the posts, or right at the connecting point of the cables and the terminal. In both instances the corrosion could be interfering with the charging power from the alternator.
Alt R&R on this vehicle isn't that difficult; Flat Rate time is 1.6 hours.
The factory procedure is to remove the top cover plate and then the brackets for the radiator/fan unit so that it can be moved slightly to give access. It's advisable to remove the fan assembly by the alternator to give even better access to the alternator/cables & lower mounting bolts for the alternator, and facilitate the belt installation. By accesssing it this way, you don't need to remove the belt tensioner.
The front bumper does not need to come off the vehicle for this R&R.
Factory list price for a rebuilt alternator assembly is around $350, so it may be worthwhile to shop around for a better price.
Per the response above: while having an alternator output sufficient to power up the electronics/fuel pump/fuel injection system may be an indicator of a alternator producing some power, it by no means establishes that it is producing it's rated output. The rated output capability is essential to being able to power the vehicle, power the accessories (HVAC, wipers, lighting, entertainment, etc) and adequately recharge the battery in normal use. An alternator with damaged output diodes can have a signficantly reduced output which will not do the job properly ... and while the local parts emporium may not have the most sophisticated techs working the counter, the test equipment they have can reveal a low output alternator even if it doesn't diagnose the causation for the low output.
The nominal charging voltage on this vehicle is 13.9v to 15.1v at 2,000 RPM with the headlights on and a fully charged battery. Honda procedure is to then load the alternator down to 13.5v at 2,000 RPM by turning on as many accessories as needed to read the amperage; ie, turn on rear window defroster, heater, lights, brake lights, wipers, etc., until the nominal voltage is dropped to 13.5v at the fusebox. The alternator output should be at least 60 amps under that scenario which also stresses the on-board electrical consumers; ie, you're testing that no system is drawing in excess of it's rated power consumption as opposed to a pro tech who would use a carbon-pile load tester to drop the system voltage to 13.5v and read the amperage output on the test unit.
I'd consider that any alternator/regulator system only carrying 13v with a charged battery to have some serious problems. Closer to 14v as an average at normal temperatures would be far better. In my shop, we always test alt readouts for an A/C wave component indicating diode problems which may not show up as significantly reduced amperage output; this is a problem area on some alternator brands and responsible for many failed batteries, electronics components, etc.
I noticed that my 2005 CRV with 48k miles began make a loud noise that originated from the front of the vehicle.Returning from a trip driving the vehicle the noise seemed louder. It was a circular whirring noise that sounded like a loud sewing machine. Becoming alarmed I researched my area and contacted and dropped it off at a local service station that had received high marks for reasonable and knowledgeable repair at noon on a Friday prior to Memorial Day weekend. The Service Manager did not call me back with a diagnosis. They were very busy with a shortage of personnel. Five hours later I contacted the Service Manager who informed me that I needed an alternator for $261.00 a drive belt-serpentine $60.48 a drive belt tensioner $160.00 with labor cost of $295. A lot of dollars for me I still approved the work over the phone and he ordered the parts that night. The shop kept my vehicle all of Saturday. When I called at 4:00 PM he advised me that installing the alternator, belt, drive belt tensioner did not improve the noise and he was in the process of putting my original equipment back in my vehicle. He said the original belt had a small crack but he had put that back on anyway. He wanted to keep my vehicle until the Tuesday after the Memorial day weekend to further investigate. I did not want my CRV sitting at the service station all weekend. Instead he brought my vehicle back to me and then said he couldn't do more checking until Thursday and he would need my vehicle for a few days to slowly find the problem; it could be the water pump or "God Forbid" something in the engine. He advised me to not drive it much and bring it in Wednesday night. Now I have not done anything but standard maintenance mostly at 30K miles along with regular service at Jiffy Lube. I started this investigation with Jiffy Lube who actually did service the car the same week but upon rechecking with them was advised that this had nothing to do them and that the noise might be the alternator or water pump. I need my vehicle! And I am totally clueless at what to do next. I know I cannot afford to go to the dealer. Any thoughts or advice would be so appreciated. Thank you
Last edited by Ruby05; 05-23-2015 at 06:56 PM..
Reason: add info
My car wasn't starting and I was out at a shopping mall. Thankfully, I was near a auto parts store, so I ended up walking accross the street and had an associate do some diagnostic tests. They said to replace the battery and alternator. I bought and replaced the battery at the mall parking lot. But the alternator on the vehicle (Honda CR-V) is in an odd position and I'm going to have to take it to the dealership.
Why? Any competent shop that knows Japanese vehicles can do this. But the first step is to have the charging system tested. This should be done by an actual tech, not by a clerk at an auto parts store.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonym9428
I'm wondering how much it could cost.
A great deal at a dealership, less at an independent shop. A top-of-the line original equipment manufacturer rebuilt alternator would cost about $500 installed at my shop. But this is putting the cart before the horse. Don't worry about what an alternator will cost at this time, find out if your CRV really needs one. HINT: If there is no battery warning light on with the car running it probably does not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonym9428
It seems that they're have to remove the front bumper to even access the alternator
That is totally incorrect. The procedure is straightforward.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonym9428
because it's a weird position, so I'm a little worried that the "service fee" is going to be insane. Any ideas on how much it could cost to have an alternator replaced on a 2005 Honda CR-V.
I noticed that my 2005 CRV with 48k miles began make a loud noise that originated from the front of the vehicle.Returning from a trip driving the vehicle the noise seemed louder. It was a circular whirring noise that sounded like a loud sewing machine. Becoming alarmed I researched my area and contacted and dropped it off at a local service station that had received high marks for reasonable and knowledgeable repair at noon on a Friday prior to Memorial Day weekend. The Service Manager did not call me back with a diagnosis. They were very busy with a shortage of personnel. Five hours later I contacted the Service Manager who informed me that I needed an alternator for $261.00 a drive belt-serpentine $60.48 a drive belt tensioner $160.00 with labor cost of $295. A lot of dollars for me I still approved the work over the phone and he ordered the parts that night. The shop kept my vehicle all of Saturday. When I called at 4:00 PM he advised me that installing the alternator, belt, drive belt tensioner did not improve the noise and he was in the process of putting my original equipment back in my vehicle. He said the original belt had a small crack but he had put that back on anyway. He wanted to keep my vehicle until the Tuesday after the Memorial day weekend to further investigate. I did not want my CRV sitting at the service station all weekend. Instead he brought my vehicle back to me and then said he couldn't do more checking until Thursday and he would need my vehicle for a few days to slowly find the problem; it could be the water pump or "God Forbid" something in the engine. He advised me to not drive it much and bring it in Wednesday night. Now I have not done anything but standard maintenance mostly at 30K miles along with regular service at Jiffy Lube. I started this investigation with Jiffy Lube who actually did service the car the same week but upon rechecking with them was advised that this had nothing to do them and that the noise might be the alternator or water pump. I need my vehicle! And I am totally clueless at what to do next. I know I cannot afford to go to the dealer. Any thoughts or advice would be so appreciated. Thank you
Well this shop sounds honorable even if less than competent. Don't expect any degree of competence from a Jiffy Lube. Time to take your CRV to a better independent shop.
Don in Austin
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