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Code comes back after a while. Car is 93 Honda Accord.
But
I just want to know the difference between, as far the codes are concerned:
1. Resetting the ECU.
2. Clearing the codes with a scan tool.
By the way, I need to buy a scan tool to help with buying a used car. Anybody has a favorite brand, model, etc. to recommend? Thanks.
A 93 Honda Accord is PRE-OBDII and the ECU is not accessed with a generic scan tool. To retrieve codes you find a two wire connector under the glovebox area and jump across the terminals and the check engine light will flash out the code.
To clear codes you remove the 7.5 AMP backup lamp fuse briefly, which fuse also supplies power to the ECU memory. Disconnecting the battery will do the same thing.
With the fault not repaired, the check engine light will come back, of course. If the fault is intermittent that could take a while.
I used my obd reader and everything is ok but the car failed smog. They said the computer needs at least 500 miles of car use for the computer, this sounds fishy, any thoughts?
I heard a buzzing sound coming from my Idle control motor and my throttle plate seems a little stiff. Can anyone point me in the right direction. I cleaned my throttlebody but still same problem. When I crank my car it stalls and cuts off after about 3-4 seconds. It's never did this before. Does anyone have an idea what's going on? It's a 2004 GS 300 Lexus!
Clearing a code with a scan tool will clear the code from the computer but it still may not pass emission checks. Many codes require some engine restarts and/or some miles on the car after scan cleaning to completely clean it out. My scan tool has a light that changes from red to yellow after clearing many codes. This means it has just been cleared but the computer remembers it and is waiting for further signals from the sensors. This is done to prevent cheating at emission test stations. Replacing defective parts requires the computer to relearn from the new parts.
Hi everyone I just bought a 2012 Nissan versa SV and the seller gave me a 14 day warranty on it. I bought a OBD scanner to test the car and make sure nothing major was wrong before my warranty went out because I was reading online about that car and I have read many people say that their transmission went out at like 69,000 miles. well this car has 89,000 and none of my trouble lights are on which is good. but I wonder if it's because they fixed everything on the car and that's why it's not on or if they erased the trouble codes with the scanner so that I would think nothing was wrong with it. what do y'all think has anyone dealt with this particular car before?
Hi I have a 2006 f350 6.0 had a 125hp tuner on it not a programmer but a tuner well I used a snap on scan tool to erase codes and now I dont have the power u had with the tune it's like I erased the tune with it any help please???
I use Honda CR-V 2003 model. The fuel consumption is very high. The car is having poor response and not stable. After being diagnosed, the results should multiple random check and misfiring. We have replaced fuel pump, replaced spark plugs. Check the injectors and the sensors. please what could possibly be the problem
2000 VW jetta 2.0 GLS ......stalled now won't start .....codes say low input tps an actuator......anybody know what's going wrong with my car
That's one of the worst Jettas ever made
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