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re: frayed wires .... in my case, the rubber grommet (?) protecting the wires from the metal door frame disintegrated and the wires rubbed up against the metal every time the door was open/close over time.
Since the door panel is off, try to push the glass up by hand. If it goes up, the glass is somehow not connected to the regulator. You'll have to figure out why.
If it doesn't go up, with the engine running to get full voltage, hold the switch in the up position and gently tap the window motor with a small hammer or something suitable. If it goes up or at least moves, you likely have a bad motor or a bad wiring connection at the motor. Make sure you try this with both the driver's and the L/R door switches.
A window regulator has the ability to chop off a finger so be very aware when and where you put your hands inside the door.
Since the door panel is off, try to push the glass up by hand. If it goes up, the glass is somehow not connected to the regulator. You'll have to figure out why.
If it doesn't go up, with the engine running to get full voltage, hold the switch in the up position and gently tap the window motor with a small hammer or something suitable. If it goes up or at least moves, you likely have a bad motor or a bad wiring connection at the motor. Make sure you try this with both the driver's and the L/R door switches.
A window regulator has the ability to chop off a finger so be very aware when and where you put your hands inside the door.
I tried to push the glass up, and could not.
I tried this as well, with the "up" switch pressed down.
I wasn't aggressive with this pushing, but tried to help it get going with gentle to moderate effort.
I'll check the wiring around the door hinge, and try tapping the motor with a hammer.
Does each door window have it's own motor?
I drove this car March 31st. When I want some air flow on my side of the car on the highway, the best source is the RIGHT rear window. Opening the left rear window sends alot of air flow to the passenger side.
It is possible that I lowered the left rear window by mistake, when I thought I was lowering the right rear window.
If this is what happened, then my actions lowered the window.
And
I did not raise it before getting out of the car.
I locked the car and did not go back to the car until today.
I noticed the window down, and discovered it won't go up.
In the above scenario, it did not go down by itself. Unless it fell.
Sometimes a problem will give a warning, like working intermittently. Sometimes it won't. Sounds like yours may have failed without any warning.
I see a metal rod that extends, down, to the bottom on the frame-track-brace that holds the glass. This rod is not exactly perpendicular to level. When the switch is pressed this rod moves ever so slightly toward the steering wheel. If it was trying to raise the window, it seems that this rod would be trying to pull upward and become more rigid.
I guess it is trying to raise the rod, even though it looks like the rod is pushing down.
The door panel and all the plastic stuff glued around the edges has been removed. I'm not clearly seeing the plastic clips that have been mentioned.
So, it looks like the motor is trying to raise the window.
That says the window must be up. And the motor has 3 screws and the regulator has 4. That is for a 2002 Galant.
Mine is a 1996.
My window is down, I do not see 4 screws anywhere, and my motor does appear to have 3 screws. It looks like me motor may not be able to be removed with the window down. Not sure.
http://i.ebayimg.com/18/!BvUte6QB2k~$(KGrHqQOKj!EvPQsZF9lBMEEcEskGw~~_3.JP G
The image clearly indicates the 4 mount points (note that one of the screws is missing in the image).
That image and link are not loading with Internet Explorer or Firefox.
I'll post a photo of my door frame.
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