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Old 04-02-2012, 09:04 AM
 
14,466 posts, read 20,644,378 times
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I've owned this 1997 Mitsubishi Galant for 4 years.
All 4 power windows have worked, up and down, until today, April 2, 2012.

Yesterday I opened the left rear door to place an item in the car. I then locked the car.
Today, I notice the left rear window is all the way down.

I do not remember using that left rear window, when I was driving the car on Saturday.

The left rear door panel is still off from a power door lock repair. I'm thus able to see the window mechanism and check all the connectors.

There is a window lock button on the left front door. It does not seem to work. Whether pressed in, or not pressed in, the other 3 windows still go up and down.

What can cause one power window to fail to function for the first time ever, since owning the car?

Like I said, I do not remember using the left rear window the last time I drove the car. When I need some fresh air, the left rear window is the last one I consider, because air in that window heads around the back of the car toward the passenger side. When I want air on my side, I use the right rear window.

Is it mechanically possible for this window to have gone down with the doors closed, the key not in the ignition, and me, the owner, in my house?

Thanks.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:45 AM
 
4,761 posts, read 14,285,568 times
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Do you have any kids?

Was the car left unlocked?

Do the windows work with the key off?

Is it possible the window was rolled down before you turned off the car and went into the house?

Other than that, is it computer controlled? Perhaps the computer module went haywire? Newer cars have computer modules in each door to control these things.

Also look for bugs or spiders in that computer module or switches. They can short connections.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:56 AM
 
Location: Phoenix, AZ
1,069 posts, read 2,946,642 times
Reputation: 1447
If the window is now broken, stuck down, it's possible the clips broke.

Your normal power window is screwed to a plastic "guide" that travels along a metal track, powered by a small electric motor (the window regulator). If the plastic clips on the window break (which will happen on an older car, after years of use), the window will drop into the door, seemingly stuck in the "down" position. Another issue is if the regulator dies out. Electric motors can wear out with age as well.

Easy way to diagnose if it's the motor or the clips: try rolling the window up or down, listening carefully. If you hear the electric motor whirring, it's probably the clips. If you don't, the motor is probably kaput.

Also, you said the door card is removed? A lot of cars I've dealt with have a plastic sheeting covering the door cavity, where you'll find the regulator, track, and window pane. (I've also come across cars with a plastic bit, screwed in place, covering it up). Remove whatever else is on the door, until you can clearly see the window regulator, track, and window pane. It will probably look something like this.

If the window is not sitting on the guide on the track, then your window's come off. If it is, then there's probably a fault with the motor, between the motor and the switch, or in the switch itself.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:08 AM
 
14,466 posts, read 20,644,378 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy_J View Post

Do you have any kids?

Was the car left unlocked?

Do the windows work with the key off?

Is it possible the window was rolled down before you turned off the car and went into the house?

Other than that, is it computer controlled? Perhaps the computer module went haywire? Newer cars have computer modules in each door to control these things.

Also look for bugs or spiders in that computer module or switches. They can short connections.
No kids, only I have a key.
The car was locked March 31st around 5pm, and never used or unlocked until today at 10am.
They are power windows and can not be rolled down.
1997 Galant so it is not a newer car.
Windows are power windows and only work with the key on.
There is a window lock button on the driver side but the 3 windows that are working fine, go up and own, regardless of whether the window lock button is up or down.
This power window problem started today April 2nd at 10am, and this window, as have all the windows, worked fine, every day, before today, since I bought the car in 2006.

I do not know if my car has computer or not. It was driven 8 miles on March 31st, I do not remember using the left rear window at all, and it was parked and locked April 1st, and I go out today and the left rear window is down. And won't respond to the window control on the driver side arm rest or the power window control on the left rear arm rest.

I fixed a power door lock issue, many weeks ago. I never re-installed the door panel, so this allows me, today, to look at the window mechanism and the wires and connectors.
I see nothing that could cause this left rear window to suddenly go bad.
All other windows (3) work fine, so it is isolated to the left rear window.
If I assume, I did lower that window while driving home on March 31st, and got out of the car and locked the car and did not go back to the car until today, then if I assume I did use it, and left it down, then now it won't go up. The other 3 windows work fine.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:13 AM
 
14,466 posts, read 20,644,378 times
Reputation: 8000
Quote:
Originally Posted by cab591 View Post
If the window is now broken, stuck down, it's possible the clips broke.

Your normal power window is screwed to a plastic "guide" that travels along a metal track, powered by a small electric motor (the window regulator). If the plastic clips on the window break (which will happen on an older car, after years of use), the window will drop into the door, seemingly stuck in the "down" position. Another issue is if the regulator dies out. Electric motors can wear out with age as well.

Easy way to diagnose if it's the motor or the clips: try rolling the window up or down, listening carefully. If you hear the electric motor whirring, it's probably the clips. If you don't, the motor is probably kaput.

Also, you said the door card is removed? A lot of cars I've dealt with have a plastic sheeting covering the door cavity, where you'll find the regulator, track, and window pane. (I've also come across cars with a plastic bit, screwed in place, covering it up). Remove whatever else is on the door, until you can clearly see the window regulator, track, and window pane. It will probably look something like this.

If the window is not sitting on the guide on the track, then your window's come off. If it is, then there's probably a fault with the motor, between the motor and the switch, or in the switch itself.
The link to the Ebay photo is not working for me. Won't load the page.

The window can not be rolled up. (How ?) It's a power window.

I removed the door panel many weeks ago for an un-related repair.
I removed the plastic that covers the door frame. I can see the track and the glass. My right front window can sometimes try to act like it is out of the track, but a with a little help it goes up, and will correct itself, and go up fine after that. So, I am familiar with glass that can be out of the track.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:27 AM
 
Location: Phoenix, AZ
1,069 posts, read 2,946,642 times
Reputation: 1447
If both switches aren't working (the driver switch, and the rear door switch), it's possibly a faulty window regulator. Not sure why the window would have gone down on its own, but if it will not go back up, and the window is properly on the track, and neither switch works, then it sounds like the motors gone bad.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:36 AM
 
14,466 posts, read 20,644,378 times
Reputation: 8000
Quote:
Originally Posted by cab591 View Post
If both switches aren't working (the driver switch, and the rear door switch), it's possibly a faulty window regulator. Not sure why the window would have gone down on its own, but if it will not go back up, and the window is properly on the track, and neither switch works, then it sounds like the motors gone bad.
So, each window has it's own motor?
I can get a replacement for under $15.00 at the local U-Pull-It yard.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:41 AM
 
14,466 posts, read 20,644,378 times
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The only thing I have not tried, and that is to drive the car around the block or two.
Shot in the dark possibility but.....I'll go do that now.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:46 AM
 
Location: SF Bay Area
13,520 posts, read 22,125,992 times
Reputation: 20235
If it's anything like the '97 Accord I used to own, either the window regulator or frayed wires is the culprit.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:53 AM
 
14,466 posts, read 20,644,378 times
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I have a lead any way. With the engine off and the radio off, and trying the driver side left rear window switch, I hear a clicking noise. When I go the other way with the switch, I also hear a "less" loud click.
I am assuming the lower volume click is "down," since the window is already down.
And the louder click is the switch's attempt to raise the window.
Power seems to be getting to the left rear door.

No frayed wires, there has been nothing done by anyone to cause a wire to go from not frayed, to frayed, overnight.
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