Welcome to City-Data.com Forum!
U.S. CitiesCity-Data Forum Index
Go Back   City-Data Forum > General Forums > Automotive
 [Register]
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
View detailed profile (Advanced) or search
site with Google Custom Search

Search Forums  (Advanced)
Reply Start New Thread
 
Old 06-30-2012, 10:42 AM
 
33,387 posts, read 34,837,332 times
Reputation: 20030

Advertisements

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigg Mann View Post
I have a 2000 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 that is near excellent condition. One major problem is motor is not good, using 1 qt./800 miles. It has 150,000 miles on it. Already put new tires, front brakes, serp. belt, and windshield.

Did not realize motor problems at first.

I have been looking at getting basic New transportation cause I'm tire of all repairs on older models. I have been looking at 2012 Ford F150 XL Plus Reg. cab, 8 ft. box 4x4 with 5.0 engine. After all rebates and trade allowance of 6000.00 on Expedition ( I owe 6000.00) the lowest price is 28,000.00 and that is a 600 mile round trip to get it.

So I was wondering if it would be better to put new crate motor in mine and if the new 5.0 would line up or could be modified some. Since everything else is in such good shape. I realize I might have to pay maybe 5,000.00 to install but still cheaper at 11,000.00 total than 28,000.00.

Any comments good or bad welcome.
the first thing i would do is determine WHY the engine is using so much oil. if it is burning it, then perhaps looking for a good used 5.4 is the way to go. but first try to find out why it is burning the oil. is it because of low compression in the cylinders? bad valve guides and seals? a bad pvc system? etc.

so the first thing to do is run a compression check and find out what kind of cylinder pressure you in fact do have. if your numbers are low but even, then add a little oil to the cylinders and run the check again. if the numbers come up, then you have worn rings. if they dont then you have other issues and you want to run a cylinder leak down test.

if you compression numbers are good, then start looking for bad valve guides, bad valve seals, gasket leaks, seal leaks etc.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

 
Old 06-30-2012, 12:09 PM
 
Location: Southwest Nebraska
1,297 posts, read 4,769,773 times
Reputation: 910
Thanks for all replies. I will look into these areas and go from there.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 06-30-2012, 03:02 PM
 
Location: H-town, TX.
3,503 posts, read 7,498,923 times
Reputation: 2232
If you just HAD to swap, why not try a DOHC 5.4L from a Lincoln clone if you can find one relatively cheap? Drop it in, flash the computer and have 40 more ponies right off the bat.

I'm not so sure the 5.0L, aside from cost, would be that big a deal to swap. Supposedly, the DOHC 5.0L is just a newer Triton, in a sense...I'd reckon you could tune the 5.4L computer and use a lot of what's around it in that Expy. As long as you can get by without the newer computer that needs to communicate with a whole bunch more stuff to even start up, I guess you could get by. The engine itself doesn't know what computer is running it, just that a computer is telling it what to do. Ford supposedly makes an ECM for this swap, anyway.


5.0 coyote swap in 97-03 f150? - F150online Forums
2002 5.4-5.0 swap - F150online Forums



$28k is a ton of cash for a base model truck. I'm fighting the urge, but I see a 2007 Lariat SuperCrew with 21k miles for $24k. I guess it looks better when I see Raptors for $54k and EcoBoost SuperCrews for $45k, but still...I remember the days when Ford was handing out base model Rangers for $9,000ish and base F150s for $12,000ish. Like in 2003.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-02-2012, 05:29 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
17,216 posts, read 57,072,247 times
Reputation: 18579
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigg Mann View Post
Thanks for all replies. I will look into these areas and go from there.
You didn't mention the viscosity and type of oil you are using. I have seen some engines consume less of a synthetic oil than a conventional.

As pointed out, with as much fuel as this thing burns, a $3 quart of conventional oil every 800 miles is peanuts compared to the at the very least 40 gallons of $4 gasoline you are buying (I used a rosy scenario 20MPG, which is probably too high but makes for easy mental math).

So in covering 800 miles you are burning $160 worth of gas, who cares about the $3 quart of oil? Even if gas went to $2 (dream on) - it's $83 vs $80 - or maybe oil would be cheaper as well, so it would be more like $82.

A lot of people anymore freak out if a car uses some oil. Certain BMW M5 and M6 engines are notorious for burning a quart of relatively expensive synthetic oil every 1000 miles - there is nothing wrong with the engine, these particular ones just use some oil.

Final thought - what you have invested in the truck, your cost basis in it, has nothing to do with what it's actually worth. If you paid too much for it, that money is a sunk cost and gone, unless you can find someone else ready to make the same mistake you made to sell it to. But keep in mind what you paid for the truck does not really figure into any decision you make to fix it or get rid of it - you have to evaluate it by condition, how well it meets your needs, and what else is available on the market.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-02-2012, 08:06 PM
 
19,023 posts, read 25,963,815 times
Reputation: 7365
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbohm View Post
the first thing i would do is determine WHY the engine is using so much oil. if it is burning it, then perhaps looking for a good used 5.4 is the way to go. but first try to find out why it is burning the oil. is it because of low compression in the cylinders? bad valve guides and seals? a bad pvc system? etc.

so the first thing to do is run a compression check and find out what kind of cylinder pressure you in fact do have. if your numbers are low but even, then add a little oil to the cylinders and run the check again. if the numbers come up, then you have worn rings. if they dont then you have other issues and you want to run a cylinder leak down test.

if you compression numbers are good, then start looking for bad valve guide seals, gasket leaks, seal leaks etc.

Take this advice and that of Mitch! If you do these things it won't cost a lot for simple diags.

Tell us where the oil is going. Some oil may be burned simply due to worn out valve seals, which is a easy fix. Others may be leaks, and even if it is in part rings, there are several things you can do.

I bought a 1986 Dodge Van in 2005 that was in Arkansas, and it is a no rust vehical, a real big deal in New Hampshire. The rear main seal was dry and I did a bottle fix for that which still works today. This engine had only 15,500 miles when I bought it, and today has only 32,000.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-02-2012, 08:20 PM
 
Location: U.S.A.
3,306 posts, read 12,221,611 times
Reputation: 2966
Bottom line, leave your Expedition as is and just deal with the problems or move on.

As several mentioned a quart every 800 miles really isn't that bad and it is the same expense as changing the oil. Are you sure there isn't a leak, perhaps only while running? It could also be valve seals, which really isn't an issue aside from the inconvenience. How does it run/perform?

I like the suggestion of the lucas oil additive, as well as running straight 30 weight. These are really good motors, 150k isn't much on one unless it was totally neglected. Another suggestion is to try engine RESTORER, comes in a cylindrical container. I have heard positive results from people who have used it, I were you I would certainly try it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-04-2012, 07:25 PM
 
Location: Southwest Nebraska
1,297 posts, read 4,769,773 times
Reputation: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lux Hauler View Post
Bottom line, leave your Expedition as is and just deal with the problems or move on.

As several mentioned a quart every 800 miles really isn't that bad and it is the same expense as changing the oil. Are you sure there isn't a leak, perhaps only while running? It could also be valve seals, which really isn't an issue aside from the inconvenience. How does it run/perform?

I like the suggestion of the lucas oil additive, as well as running straight 30 weight. These are really good motors, 150k isn't much on one unless it was totally neglected. Another suggestion is to try engine RESTORER, comes in a cylindrical container. I have heard positive results from people who have used it, I were you I would certainly try it.

I am not going to do anything to it. Besides the oil problem it has a cam that is making a lot of noise. Was told this will eventually blow cylinder out. Top end would fix it but cost over a 1000.00 and still have oil problems.

Truck runs fine but I will drive awhile until I find something to replace it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2012, 06:06 PM
 
Location: Southwest Nebraska
1,297 posts, read 4,769,773 times
Reputation: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigg Mann View Post
I have a 2000 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 that is near excellent condition. One major problem is motor is not good, using 1 qt./800 miles. It has 150,000 miles on it. Already put new tires, front brakes, serp. belt, and windshield.

Did not realize motor problems at first.

I have been looking at getting basic New transportation cause I'm tire of all repairs on older models. I have been looking at 2012 Ford F150 XL Plus Reg. cab, 8 ft. box 4x4 with 5.0 engine. After all rebates and trade allowance of 6000.00 on Expedition ( I owe 6000.00) the lowest price is 28,000.00 and that is a 600 mile round trip to get it.

So I was wondering if it would be better to put new crate motor in mine and if the new 5.0 would line up or could be modified some. Since everything else is in such good shape. I realize I might have to pay maybe 5,000.00 to install but still cheaper at 11,000.00 total than 28,000.00.

Any comments good or bad welcome.
I bought an 2011 F150 XLT with 5.0 in it and only 5700 miles. Problem solved.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2012, 06:08 PM
 
Location: Denver, CO
3,135 posts, read 11,891,948 times
Reputation: 2494
Nice. That's how I solve those problems too!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2012, 06:18 PM
 
Location: Southwest Nebraska
1,297 posts, read 4,769,773 times
Reputation: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by PokerMunkee View Post
Nice. That's how I solve those problems too!
Thanks, the 5.0 has 360 hp and runs good. Ave. mpg is 20. I hate it when my vehicles always need repairs. Thought I was saving money buying older, nice condition cars, but they cost me more in long run and I would rather make payments and reliability.

This 150 was certified and I got an extra 12000/bumper to bumper for a total remaing 42,000 mile warrenty for next 48 mo. It is a 4x4 SC with sync.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.

Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.


Reply
Please update this thread with any new information or opinions. This open thread is still read by thousands of people, so we encourage all additional points of view.

Quick Reply
Message:


Over $104,000 in prizes was already given out to active posters on our forum and additional giveaways are planned!

Go Back   City-Data Forum > General Forums > Automotive

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:19 AM.

© 2005-2024, Advameg, Inc. · Please obey Forum Rules · Terms of Use and Privacy Policy · Bug Bounty

City-Data.com - Contact Us - Archive 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37 - Top