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Light 'clunk' when brakes released as you described could possibly be a caliper hanging up or sticking too. That would be your noise too. Any excessive brake dust on one particular wheel? 87,000 could be enough mileage to have a bad caliper. All depends on how it was driven, etc, ect..... and could just be bad.
Hard to diagnose on the web. My 'best guess' comes from too many years of getting greasy and is just that, a guess....
It is also possible that the new pads need shims on them so they work properly, and the mechanic that did the work did not set them up correctly. I know our Pontiac Vibes (Toyota Matrix clones) need them or the pads will make noise. Also they could be moving around in the calipers some causing the clunk. My Mustang does that sometimes.
Thanks everybody!
I guess I will get in line to have the good mechanic look again, that will be another week. I hope its not the calipers, I have heard that is a very expensive job and I hope whoever looks knows what they are doing because I am going broke.
As far as going back to the 1st mechanic, I have lost confidence but maybe I am giving up too fast.
As soon as I find out, I will come back and let you know.
Thanks very much.
Just wondering, if it is the caliper, how much do you think I should be charged?
Also if it is the pads not working right?
Yes a Toyota dealer would more likely have good mechanics. They will charge more, but I think it is worth it. (You get what you pay for...)
Not at all true. Expensive mechanics (such as the dealer) are no better than a GOOD independent. The independent's prices are typically lower because they don't have the high overhead of the dealer location. And they don't usually get encouraged to recommend unnecessary service (such as transmission flushes).
Not at all true. Expensive mechanics (such as the dealer) are no better than a GOOD independent. The independent's prices are typically lower because they don't have the high overhead of the dealer location. And they don't usually get encouraged to recommend unnecessary service (such as transmission flushes).
Actually so far as service for EVERYTHING is concerned (not just cars)... A "Factory Authorized Repair Facility" has a LOT of advantages to somewhere else which repairs all sorts of different brands of products.
1. Training - They are trained by the factory to work on those specific products and repair them to "factory specifications". They are required to repair safety related things "right" or not at all.
2. Documentation - They have access to all the factory service documentation. Also can call up experts at the factory for additional help if needed.
3. Factory software troubleshooting and updates - They have complete access to all the factory software for troubleshooting and updates. A modern car can have up to 80 separate computers in it for this and that. Helps if you have the factory troubleshooting software to find problems.
4. Parts - If a repair person has easy access to parts (like in the next room), they are more likely to replace ALL the parts recommended by the factory for a repair. For example electrical connectors. There are hundreds of different types. An assortment can cost thousands of dollars. If there is a parts cabinet nearby of all these connectors and the tech has been trained to repair/replace these, then a bad connector will be properly fixed.
5. Knowledge of specific problems - They will be aware of specific problems with specific vehicles / products. And have access to product bulletins which mention these things as well. Easier to know about these things for the products from one manufacturer.
6. Cost - Yes all this stuff, special repair tools, stocking parts, special testing equipment, etc. costs a small fortune. So you pay for this. For example this electrical terminal repair kit for $5,669.06...
and yet with all those resources they may not be any better at repairing your breaks as the next guy.
that guy fixing you brakes could have worked at the dealership last week and or that guy that did the brake jod could be working at the dealership next week.
Anyone with the internet can access help on line.
From tsb's to technical data they can even own the same diagnostic tools.
Yes, it is probably better to go to a dealership but like I said before, I am going broke. I was thinking more on the lines of taking it to the dealership ONLY to find out what the problem is, then going to the busy mechanic and tell him what they said.
Is that a good idea?
That won't work. The dealership (and most mechanics these days) will charge for the diagnostics separately if you don't have the repair done at that time.
Unless the less busy mechanic was shady or something, I'd bring it back there first and ask them to take a second look.
If the high idle is posing a safety hazard, I'd mention that too. Otherwise, go to your preferred mechanic for that.
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