Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I went and looked expecting any Honda Civic in the $2500 - $3000 range to be broken or have 200,000 miles on it. I was surprised. There are a lot of them in the 110,000- 150,000 mile range which are advertised in good condition. (Not from dealers). Yes there were quite a few broken ones, or modified ones (which no one who is a little bit smart wants to buy), damaged ones and one 200,000 miler, but the majority appear to e decent cars (based on the ad).
Are you better off with a 120,000 mile Civic than with a 46,000 mile Taurus? Hard to say.
I do not know whether parts for Hondas are still out of sight. A few years ago, my FIL needed a starter for his Honda while visiting us. We had to drive almost 40 miles to a dealer and the starter was $500 (local parts stores did not carry it), but that may have been a fluke. Some models of various brands sometimes have parts that oddly cost a fortune, usually because no other cars use them.
While I would still prefer a 110,000 mile Town Car over a 110,000 mile Civic for the same price, it is certainly a viable alternative, especially if you value somewhat better gas mileage over comfort and capacity (i.e. you mostly drive alone).
Are you better off with a 120,000 mile Civic than with a 46,000 mile Taurus? Hard to say.
There are a lot of decent used cars out there. A used Volvo is another good option because of the kind of people that bought them new are also the kind of people who take really good care of them, don't mod them up or race them, and they do all the factory maintenances. I love 240 wagons!
Quote:
I do not know whether parts for Hondas are still out of sight. A few years ago, my FIL needed a starter for his Honda while visiting us. We had to drive almost 40 miles to a dealer and the starter was $500 (local parts stores did not carry it), but that may have been a fluke. Some models of various brands sometimes have parts that oddly cost a fortune, usually because no other cars use them.
Hmmm... well I've done very well with used factory parts, like starters and alternators. I just get them out of junkyards or from friends parting out their cars. Even my old mechanics who were independent (non-dealership) Honda specialist mechanics, when I needed an alternator or starter motor in my old Honda CVCC's, they sourced them from their favorite parts yards.
And with Hondas and Acuras, I have found that my starter motors, ignitors and alternators are good for a healthy 10 years of trouble free service.
BTW with Hondas and Acuras, don't use the fast change oil change places, only go to garages that use factory parts. You need them to change the oil crush washer every time you get an oil change. The quick lube places don't stock the Honda crush washers and instead reuse your old one... and that will cause the threads on your drain plug to eventually strip out. I suppose that you could carry around in your car a Honda oil filter AND a new aluminum oil crush washer to give to the quick lube places to use.
There are a lot of decent used cars out there. A used Volvo is another good option because of the kind of people that bought them new are also the kind of people who take really good care of them, don't mod them up or race them, and they do all the factory maintenances. I love 240 wagons!
Hmmm... well I've done very well with used factory parts, like starters and alternators. I just get them out of junkyards or from friends parting out their cars. Even my old mechanics who were independent (non-dealership) Honda specialist mechanics, when I needed an alternator or starter motor in my old Honda CVCC's, they sourced them from their favorite parts yards.
And with Hondas and Acuras, I have found that my starter motors, ignitors and alternators are good for a healthy 10 years of trouble free service.
BTW with Hondas and Acuras, don't use the fast change oil change places, only go to garages that use factory parts. You need them to change the oil crush washer every time you get an oil change. The quick lube places don't stock the Honda crush washers and instead reuse your old one... and that will cause the threads on your drain plug to eventually strip out. I suppose that you could carry around in your car a Honda oil filter AND a new aluminum oil crush washer to give to the quick lube places to use.
I bought mine for $2200 3 years ago, it had 190k on it, now has 240k.
If you live in a southern state, yeah, you might need to get the A/C fixed, but these cars, and people who tend to own them, are very capable. Find one that's been well-maintained and serviced, and it will run forever.
Trooper/Land Cruiser.
OR..
Mercedes 420SEL or 560SEL. Amazing quality for the money.
It is the V6 Honda and Acura products from the Marysville, Ohio pant that had transmission problems the early 2000s, fixed around 2003-2004, but did not affect every car, either. You should not have a problem with the Civic, Accord, Integra four-cylinder models. The V6 from Japan, used in the RL did not have the failure rate as was experienced in the Acura TL and Honda Accord. Odysseys were also involved, as were some Pilots, but you're not looking at those, so I would not worry unduly.
I wish you'd have written this 4 weeks ago. I bought a 99' Acura TL V6, and I've put less than 300 miles on it. Why you ask? Cause its a death trap. My 2ed time driving it, it just shut down and died ON the freeway going 70mph. Bought from a dealer who of course says it was sold as-is. Had it checked out, mech. said it was great and here I sit.
I'm a female, old, alone and live in the middle of nowhere. I've never felt so taken in my life. BMWGUY, can you explain what the problem is with this dang car and advise me on what I should do? All I've been able to find out is a recall problem. The dealer did get me the # to get it fixed, BUT, I have no safe way out of my town to get there. To explain this: I have 2 ways to get to the freeway, both are two lane skinny long dippy roads with huge ditches, no place to pull over.
I went shopping the other day, and it took me 5 hours, because I had to spend so much time sitting by the road. It usually takes about 15min. then will start....for a block or 5-10 miles give or take. The closest place to get the recall do-hicky fixed is 70-80 miles away. If I ever get on my way, its gonna be a long trip. From what I gather, and I'm not sure about this, the dying has something to do with the key and the ignition getting too much electricity. And the recall has nothing to do with that, I dont think.
Sorry for writing a book and sorry OP I dont mean to steal your thread. I'd appreciate any help as I'm ready to shoot this darn car. I havent seen the grandkids in 3 weeks. Even if I get to their house, its not safe to bring them to my home. I was so happy to find a car with only 113,000 miles, now I know why, they were as scared to drive it as I am. TIA everyone.
I wish you'd have written this 4 weeks ago. I bought a 99' Acura TL V6, and I've put less than 300 miles on it. Why you ask? Cause its a death trap. My 2ed time driving it, it just shut down and died ON the freeway going 70mph. Bought from a dealer who of course says it was sold as-is. Had it checked out, mech. said it was great and here I sit.
I'm a female, old, alone and live in the middle of nowhere. I've never felt so taken in my life. BMWGUY, can you explain what the problem is with this dang car and advise me on what I should do? All I've been able to find out is a recall problem. The dealer did get me the # to get it fixed, BUT, I have no safe way out of my town to get there. To explain this: I have 2 ways to get to the freeway, both are two lane skinny long dippy roads with huge ditches, no place to pull over.
I went shopping the other day, and it took me 5 hours, because I had to spend so much time sitting by the road. It usually takes about 15min. then will start....for a block or 5-10 miles give or take. The closest place to get the recall do-hicky fixed is 70-80 miles away. If I ever get on my way, its gonna be a long trip. From what I gather, and I'm not sure about this, the dying has something to do with the key and the ignition getting too much electricity. And the recall has nothing to do with that, I dont think.
Sorry for writing a book and sorry OP I dont mean to steal your thread. I'd appreciate any help as I'm ready to shoot this darn car. I havent seen the grandkids in 3 weeks. Even if I get to their house, its not safe to bring them to my home. I was so happy to find a car with only 113,000 miles, now I know why, they were as scared to drive it as I am. TIA everyone.
So you live in MO? Whereabouts exactly? I'm so sorry that you are so far away from a good mechanic. If the roads are so twisty, maybe you should have bought a Honda CR-V instead.
I suppose that I would add to my earlier advice is to buy a car that can be serviced by a trusted garage that is nearby...
Also, I stand by my advice to buy a used Honda (or Acura)... and that it be a manual transmission with a four cylinder engine. I don't like buying a used car from a dealer though unless it's from a new car dealership and they've done all the service work on it. Those used car dealers tend to buy their stock from auctions where they don't know the real history of the car. Some of those cars might be repo's where the owners just stop taking care of them mechanically because they couldn't afford to.
And just getting a Carfax report is not enough, it only lists any insurance claim work done. And sometimes, not all the ownership transfers are listed. If you can though, see if a new car dealership can pull the vehicle service records through a vin# search.
I wish you'd have written this 4 weeks ago. I bought a 99' Acura TL V6, and I've put less than 300 miles on it. Why you ask? Cause its a death trap. My 2ed time driving it, it just shut down and died ON the freeway going 70mph. Bought from a dealer who of course says it was sold as-is. Had it checked out, mech. said it was great and here I sit.
I'm a female, old, alone and live in the middle of nowhere. I've never felt so taken in my life. BMWGUY, can you explain what the problem is with this dang car and advise me on what I should do? All I've been able to find out is a recall problem. The dealer did get me the # to get it fixed, BUT, I have no safe way out of my town to get there. To explain this: I have 2 ways to get to the freeway, both are two lane skinny long dippy roads with huge ditches, no place to pull over.
I went shopping the other day, and it took me 5 hours, because I had to spend so much time sitting by the road. It usually takes about 15min. then will start....for a block or 5-10 miles give or take. The closest place to get the recall do-hicky fixed is 70-80 miles away. If I ever get on my way, its gonna be a long trip. From what I gather, and I'm not sure about this, the dying has something to do with the key and the ignition getting too much electricity. And the recall has nothing to do with that, I dont think.
Sorry for writing a book and sorry OP I dont mean to steal your thread. I'd appreciate any help as I'm ready to shoot this darn car. I havent seen the grandkids in 3 weeks. Even if I get to their house, its not safe to bring them to my home. I was so happy to find a car with only 113,000 miles, now I know why, they were as scared to drive it as I am. TIA everyone.
It really sounds like your car has the ignition switch problem, where the ignition unit shuts off at speed, or sometimes will not start easily after being turned off, such as at a gas pump. I would call Acura, though the local dealer first, then corporate customer service if you need to do so. They can advise you as to whether or not the recall work was performed on your vehicle by a VIN search, and whether or not yours was in the batch that had the problem, if the work was not performed.
I agree that I would have it towed because it can shut off at any speed, but any Acura dealer can do the work, so perhaps find the closest to your house. AAA+ is a good suggestion, and not terribly expensive to keep for other reasons with the car.
Overall, I think that you have a very good car, and 113k is not terribly high mileage at all for the year, and for a Honda. You have the 4-speed automatic, not the 5-speed that was having problems with the 6-cylinder in the TL/Accord/Odyssey/Pilot from 01-03.
__________________
All the world's a stage, and all the men and women merely players: they have their exits and their entrances; and one man in his time plays many parts, his acts being seven ages.
~William Shakespeare (As You Like It Act II, Scene VII)
Thanks guys, and esp. for saying I didnt buy the "bad" Acura. It sure feels like it though. The dealer did give me the recall # from Canada and this car hasnt had it done yet. BUT, I found where someone said they got it done and his car still kept dying. Thats what I'm scared of. I just feel I will never be able to trust this car.
I dont have AAA or any tow service. The towing cost will be huge! A Honda dealer in Blue Springs told me I'll have to take it to KC,MO. I'm around 70-80 miles east of there. I was hoping to use B.S. cause its the closest "big" city. And its not that my roads are "twisty" lol They dont have shoulders, just extremely deep ditches and the roads are dippy. That makes it scary to stall, as they wont see me till its too late.
Re: Lemon laws. From googling, sounds like when you buy from a used car dealer your stuck. If you have info, I'd appreciate knowing if there is something I could do.
BMW, you 1st made it sound like the speed could make it happen. Do you know why it dies? And your right, sometimes it wont start, sometimes I have to keep trying, and other times works great. I did get someone to come put a new battery in, as I totally killed the one that came in it. I know this will sound weird, but I even got a new key made, thinking that might be the problem, not. Thanks again all.
Just reread BMW. So you think the recall fix will take care of it? If so, is it for good? One poster said they also had to get a new ignition, so wondered if the recall and that both have to be done. AAA wont let me join knowing my car doesnt work will they?
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
My 2ed time driving it, it just shut down and died ON the freeway going 70mph. Bought from a dealer who of course says it was sold as-is. Had it checked out, mech. said it was great and here I sit.
From what I gather, and I'm not sure about this, the dying has something to do with the key and the ignition getting too much electricity. And the recall has nothing to do with that, I dont think.
