Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
It's our first 4WD (but 6th F-series truck) and has the shift on the fly, which DH didn't really want because of possible vaccuum issues down the line. But he's in need of a 4WD work truck a.s.a.p. and has settled on this one because of limited choices.
We took it for a test drive and everything seemed ok. It has a little rust starting on the drive shaft (expected in the northeast) and some dirt streaks on the side that we hope won't leave stains. Didn't notice any obvious shrinkage in the rubber seals that we could see and no drips of anything under the truck. Everything under the hood looks brand new. What else should we be looking for in a truck that's been sitting outside in the north for over a year?
I'm supposed to go put a down payment on it today to hold it until DH flies home to sign the paperwork. But the dealer is acting kind of shyster-ish and a little desperate to sell it, which makes me suspicious that something is wrong with it.
Is this a brand new truck? If so, I am not sure I would be too concerned that it is a left over 2012. You should be getting a full warranty on it from date of delivery so if something turned up it would be covered. Still, being so new, it should be fine. You could always insist on them doing a full fluid change throughout to make sure condensation from hot/cold cycles has not built up any moisture anywhere, but even that would just be precautionary.
Shysterism is normal for many car salesman, Don't be afraid. If you can buy it at the right price (and don't have other options) I would buy it. If there are any issues from sitting, hopefully they will pop up sooner than later. Many on the forum here say that sitting don't effect a vehicle's tires anymore. I don't know if that's true or not but it may be an issue, I would also wan't a new battery, but that's just me. Good luck to you
How many miles are on it? A demo truck can still be sold as new. Look on the inside of the drivers door, where the VIN sticker is and look for the build or assembly date. This will tell you how old the truck is.
If it was a demo, I'd seek a discount.
Overall though, not much to look for, its still just a new truck. Any dealer that has a '12 model wants to get them gone.
The build date is Feb. 2012. I think it's only got a few dozen miles on it, but I'll check. I hadn't even thought about the fluids and battery. Guess it can't hurt to ask that they be changed. Tires looked good (Michelins) but I'll look closer today for any bulges or anything. I know it will be under warranty, but I have to drive it to the mid-west to swap trucks with DH and I'd rather not find some big flaw on the way there.
Guess I should just make the deal and stop worrying, since we don't really have any other options anyway. The price is right and it's not too easy to find one on a lot with a supercab and an 8' bed, which is a requirement for us.
Thanks for the help, guys. I'm off to give it a closer inspection.
It's being sold with full factory warranty? If so, don't worry about it. I'm guessing they are ready to move it. If it is the 6.2 gasser go for it. My dad has an 11 f250 with e 6.2 gas and he likes it. I wouldn't worry about the electric 4x4. Exercise it regularly and it will give you fewer headaches. Take care of it and it will take care of you.
He looked around for used ones, but they cost almost as much as this one did. Anyway, his employer pays him mileage for the truck + the gas. We get to write off the depreciation and repairs. He drives it for 4 years, by which time he has about 200k miles on it and has been paid over $50k in mileage. Then he gives it to me and gets a new one. All of his trucks over the years have paid for themselves with change left over.
We always buy gassers and change the oil religiously.
Well, I ran the 2012 for a while, crawled all over under it looking for leaks, listened to the engine for ticks or knocks, looked closely at the oil and tranny fluid and they didn't appear to have any water in them (though I suppose it would be hard to tell), battery was new, tires didn't have any bulges or rot, dirt streaks all rubbed off and it has 38 miles on the odometer. Brakes felt a bit soft, but we'll just bleed the system if it keeps up. Then I ran out of time and made a down payment quick and beat feet for my tax appointment. So hubby has himself a new truck, as soon as he flies in to sign the paperwork. I get to inherit a dually this time.
He looked around for used ones, but they cost almost as much as this one did. Anyway, his employer pays him mileage for the truck + the gas. We get to write off the depreciation and repairs. He drives it for 4 years, by which time he has about 200k miles on it and has been paid over $50k in mileage. Then he gives it to me and gets a new one. All of his trucks over the years have paid for themselves with change left over.
We always buy gassers and change the oil religiously.
Well, I ran the 2012 for a while, crawled all over under it looking for leaks, listened to the engine for ticks or knocks, looked closely at the oil and tranny fluid and they didn't appear to have any water in them (though I suppose it would be hard to tell), battery was new, tires didn't have any bulges or rot, dirt streaks all rubbed off and it has 38 miles on the odometer. Brakes felt a bit soft, but we'll just bleed the system if it keeps up. Then I ran out of time and made a down payment quick and beat feet for my tax appointment. So hubby has himself a new truck, as soon as he flies in to sign the paperwork. I get to inherit a dually this time.
Is this a 6.2L?
If so, I've a 2010 Raptor with the 6.2L, the very first months of production. Anyhow, I've got 52k one clock and the only issue has been a canister purge valve. Ford released a Bulletin regarding this problem, it's nothing serious, just causes rough idle and its easily replaced. One way of preventing it is to install an oil separator. theroretically, small amounts of oil gets sucked up brought the PCV and causes issues with the purge valve. So the separator prevents or at least reduces the amount of oil sucked up.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.