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As they say no good deed goes unpunished. So I decide to drain and refill the tranny on my beloved 96 corolla 1.8 DX with auto trans. Go to put the bolt and washer back in and I think I stripped it. What's worse is I can't even back it out?
Tap and die okay can handle that. But some on the net are telling me no you have to drop the whole pan bring it to shop and then find the right tap and die and new bolt and washer. They said if you send metal shards into the tranny you will screw up the valves inside? I don't know.
Why is this so much more difficult than a stripped oil drain plug. You just get an oversized self threading, I think, and game over. Is it because the metal thickness on the drain pan is much less than engine block?
I am afraid of dropping the pan it's never been done since it was mfg in 96 with 213k on it.
It is going to have to be fixed so either you do it or pay someone else. They make self taping drain plugs which work well when installed correctly and a good washer is used. Breaking off bolts from over tightening is a sign of an inexperienced mechanic.
Honestly, I'd just spend the money on a new pan. Drop the pan, change the filter, button her all up and call it a day.
Spending money to try to fix it, and it may not work, may make it worse, or may fix it, seems more like a waste of time and potential money. You can find a new one for around 50 bucks, and used ones for next to nothing.
Any yes, a metal shard can screw up a transmission badly. Either way, the pan has to come off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crestliner
It is going to have to be fixed so either you do it or pay someone else. They make self taping drain plugs which work well when installed correctly and a good washer is used. Breaking off bolts from over tightening is a sign of an inexperienced mechanic.
I've seen very experienced mechanics bust bolts. In fact, I've even done it, while using a torque wrench and being well within the torque specs of the bolt. Either way, sometimes crap happens, OP is seeking advise, and comments like yours come off as pretty rude sometimes.
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That's more common than you would think, because most people will not change their fluid for at least 90,000 miles and by then it may have been on there 10 years.
Well I am running out of options and time so I am going to have to try and "jerry rig" for the remaining life. I will drill out the old bolt get an OEM replacement and thread it in with JB weld.
I am worried about the JB weld but my thought if I just put some by the head of the bolt and completely wait for it to cure then it can't contaminate the trans fluid or pan?
If you are going that route, forget even putting a new bolt in. Just leave the old one it, if its not leaking call it a day. If anything, jb weld that one in. Sounds like there is a good chance you will never need to take it off again. If so, then just replace the pan. Replacing it will be easier then messing with a jb weld thread.
There shouldn't be that much metal that makes its way into the pan by using a tap and die, it's a drain pan, not very thick.
I'd use a tap and die and DO IT BY HAND. I highly doubt that you'd be able to clean around the existing plug well enough for JB Weld to hold permanently. When you are done, get a high powered flexible magnet and stick it in the hole to get as much of the metal as you can. I'd also see about getting a drain plug that has a built in magnet.
Tap it and call it a day. If you are that worried about metal shards just dip the end of the tap in a heavy grease, it will retain all of the shards. Even if shards do make it into the pan it is a non issue. The fluid sucked out of the pan must first run through a filter before it is introduced to the internals of the trans. You could fill the pan with sand and all it would do is clog the filter. A few shards will not matter.
If there is not enough "meat" to tap up the next larger size you may have the option of switching between unit systems. For example if it is a 15mm bolt, instead of tapping up to 16mm you could go with an in-between such as 5/8". It will depend heavily on the original size of the bolt.
Last edited by Lux Hauler; 08-15-2013 at 02:03 PM..
Colorado, get flat head screwdriver tip between pan and plug head/washer, if you have washer there; pry it whilst screwing it out. It's a bit tricky as screwdriver tends to follow the spin, but with a bit of cussing can be done. Go to put the bolt and washer back in and I think I stripped it. What's worse is I can't even back it out?
Now, that was suggestion if you can not back plug out as in - it spins but will not come out.
If you stripped the head, and socket now spins on the plug, go to Sears and buy Griptite. THAT will grab any stripped bolt.
You drill anything out of trannie, you taking major chances of hitting something inside. It only appears to be a lot of empty space there, in reality, pan is practically touching vital parts inside.
JB Weld will crumble and quite soon. I did some work with it before, it is not the best compound.
Guys told you - your best bet is to remove pan and have it fixed. With it off it is SAFE to drill or re-thread.
I ended up going reverse bit and wrench got it. Got OEM bolt and washer cleaned area well gooped threads good with JB Weld and will see tomorrow after it sets. I heard some funny ones from the dealership. The parts guys said wrap bolt with teflon tape or aluminum foil..........great when that shreds and goes into tranny.
Thanks again.
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