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doesn't explain how I have consistently gotten well over 200,000 trouble free miles by using the same lightweight oil on my first oil change as on my last.
I did this on 5 new vehicles since 1988
Sure it does. You did good maintenance. And you drove decent cars. Very simple.
By the way, 200k is nothing for today's vehicles. Talk to me when you begin consistently getting over 500k on your cars & pickups. Then we'll have something to talk about.
My, my, a new recommendation that called for lighter oil ?
Interesting !
I'll bet the mechanics who post here would have said..............." no,no,no,"
After all, thicker is better.............sarc
Apples and oranges. The mfrs. switch to lower viscosity to improve fuel economy and avoid fines. They back-spec to keep the natives from getting restless. They are less interested in wear, as that is the compromise, where independent mechanics are more concerned with keeping vehicles on the road longer and with maximum efficiency in severe conditions.
My, my, a new recommendation that called for lighter oil ?
Interesting !
I'll bet the mechanics who post here would have said..............." no,no,no,"
After all, thicker is better.............sarc
Perhaps a short reading lesson is in order here. And logic.
The post you quoted proved that even engineers who (it is wrongly assumed) write owners manuals change their stories. Did you get that? I mean, the way you guys talk, you'd think these owners manual writers were God himself...
That said, how about being a dear and going back in this thread, finding where any mechanic said anything like, "thicker is better..." and posting it.
By the way, would you care to explain the real reason so many auto manufacturers are suggesting oils such as 0W20 Full Synthetic. Please explain it without the use of an internet search engine.
Strange that when I called a busy auto garage for an oil change apt and asked if they had 0-20 synthetic, he said.............." we don 't , but we will get it for you. You have a Toyota I presume "
doesn't explain how I have consistently gotten well over 200,000 trouble free miles by using the same lightweight oil on my first oil change as on my last.
I did this on 5 new vehicles since 1988
You see Teddy, you take care of your vehicles and instead of following the half-baked ideas of some random mechanic, you actually follow the manufacturers recommendations and as a result you get the intended performance and reliability, so you don't need to follow this information regarding fixing your car without actually fixing it.
If you want your vehicle to last it is really simple, just follow the manufacturers recommendations and tune out information that comes from mechanics, as most of their information is geared toward you making a return visit. The only two mechanics with and real credibility are Tom and Ray Magliozzi.
Strange that when I called a busy auto garage for an oil change apt and asked if they had 0-20 synthetic, he said.............." we don 't , but we will get it for you. You have a Toyota I presume "
Oil is pretty simple.. 10W40 for instance is thinner at startup but at normal engine operating temp has a higher viscosity than say a 10W30. So, basically a 5W30 allows a thinner oil at startup (a good thing) and then has the same protection as a straight 30 weight at normal operating temp. If you have normal engine wear, and have been using 5W30 for years, you can switch to a 5W40 or even a 5W50.. For many, this will slow-down leaking, improve oil pressure, and reduce blow-by or burning of oil due to worn rings... but this is not a solution to severe engine damage, like broken rings, heavily worn bearings, or valve guide damage. Many people notice their car is losing oil, but see no sign of leaking.. I had a BMW 325i that was losing about a quart a month, but wasn't leaking or smoking.. I did a little investigating and found the crank case ventilation system was clogged, causing the engine to consume oil. In short, changing to a heavier oil can improve oil consumption for some, but if you are losing large amounts of oil, see a trusted mechanic.
Yes the higher viscosity oil is harder to pump, but when you think about it, so is cold oil, and it can take 30 minutes for an engine to warm up. So a car doing a 20 minute commute is having a harder time pumping its 10w-30 oil than a fully warmed up car running 10w-40
But 40 weight may be too high. I would go with what the manufacturer recommends UNLESS it's a case of choosing a very light weight for the sake of economy like Ford and BMW do with the 5W-20. Fords are known to wear faster with the 20 oil. I for one noticed a big difference the one time I let the shop put in 5W-20, it just felt rougher during long drives (IE when the 20 had a chance to heat up to operating temp)
Engine oil, the great debate. Some people leave it in there for 6000-7000 miles or more, some leave it only 2000-3000 miles. I'm the more often is better type, and since we drive locally, I just change it usually every three months. Whenever I let it go for four months, and it was winter, I always found a little sludge on the drain plug. That always makes me nervous, so I keep up the three month schedule especially over the winters here in NY. I buy the AC Delco filter and full synthetic oil, usually Valvoline or Mobil 1, at Walmart, they usually have good prices. Any front end grease fittings get greased usually every oil change or every other change. I know, probably overkill, but I like a well oiled machine.
My neighbor is the opposite. He just bought a new, $40,000 Buick Lacrosse. He believes in the 6000-7500 miles interval. Now this car was financed for 5 years and it's probably still costing a good $500 a month or so. If I had to make payments like that, I'd do more than just bare minimum maintenance, hoping this car will outlast the payments, and not blow up just as I finish paying it off. Jeez. Or maybe I've just been one of the unlucky people who grew up with cars that were barely maintained, well used by the time we got them, and we had to deal with them at the end of their lives.
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