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Stepson has a 2001 Mits. Diamante. At 103,000 miles the 'check engine' light activated. He reset it and it came on within 48 hours. He was scheduled to go through emmissions testing so he turned off the light just before going and passed with flying colors. Next day the light was back on.
My concern is that he is a pauper (newly married, school loans...) and cannot afford hundreds of dollars or diagnostics.
Can anyone opine if this is simply a sensor issue or catalytic converter issue...... The car idles a bit rough and his gas mileage may be down a bit, if that helps.
There are usually places that will diagnose the check engine light for little cost, if any. I often get coupons in my local shopping rag (direct mail) for a free check-engine light diagnosis.
FWIW, the check engine light in my Toyota Sienna minivan has been on for four years - it's an O2 sensor - and the van runs OK, though it can affect performance. The Toyotas cost an arm and a leg to fix -- $220 is the price for the part -- so I have no real incentive to fix it. The car passes inspection every year with the check-engine light on (this is PA, which is probably not as strict as other states).
Autozone can read the code for free. They give you a code number and you can google-search what the issue is and go from there. Sometimes the code will be straight to the point and list a specific sensor, other times the code will list a condition that is not correct and require a little research to figure out the issue.
Code readers are cheap. Google search "OBDII reader" and you'll find hundreds of models. A basic read/erase scanner can be had for under $50. $100 will give you a more advanced reader that can show engine parameters and such. There are even more advanced readers that do ABS codes and special functions.
Or you can just go to Autozone, explain your check engine light is on, and a tech will go outside and read the code with you for free. The CEL can be a hundred things..so no point guessing
It could be an O2 sensor, or a misfire from a failing coil-pack, or worn out spark plugs. Only way to know is to read the code number and research it
If the OBDII code calls out the sensor, just replace it. They are not expensive if you don't buy them from the dealer. Some cars have more than one - so you need to determine which one it is (the OBDII code probably says which one). Go to Automotive OE Replacement and Performance Parts - In Stock for Your Tune-Up! and buy an "OEM exact replacement".
You might need an O2 sensor "crowsfoot" socket to remove the existing one. $8.
So I was curious with my minivan to see what the price really was (mechanic quoted $220; my van has California emissions) so I went to your link, hoffdano -- there is a plethora of oxygen sensor options, ranging from about $30 all the way up to $300. Same part. How on earth would one figure out what to buy?
At that age and mileage, either a mass air flow sensor or O2 sensor. Neither one of them are bank breakers. He should be out in under $200, depending on the cost of labor near you.
So I was curious with my minivan to see what the price really was (mechanic quoted $220; my van has California emissions) so I went to your link, hoffdano -- there is a plethora of oxygen sensor options, ranging from about $30 all the way up to $300. Same part. How on earth would one figure out what to buy?
I can't offer advice specific to your van. But many of the sensors are electronically identical but do not have a factory matching connector. You would have to splice the cables. You would want one that is the exact OEM replacement connector. That makes it easy.
I recently replaced two O2 sensors on my NSX. The Acura part was about $125 each. The equivalent NGK part was about $58.
Every last one of the cars I've had for the past 15 years has had the check engine light come on indicating the O2 sensor at around 100,000 miles. One thing I found is that you can 'postpone' how soon in the car's life that O2 sensor comes up by using name-brand gas instead of a cheaper regional generic or grocery store gas. We're talking maybe 3-5 thousand more miles, out of 100,000, before that engine code shows itself.
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