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Old 12-17-2013, 10:15 AM
 
Location: Central Florida
3,658 posts, read 2,563,286 times
Reputation: 12289

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Quote:
Originally Posted by shyguylh View Post
You are probably right. That punching bag I saw for sale down the road might be a good investment if I insist on going this route, ha ha.

Part of the problem is that, again, I'm just extremely intolerant of simple things getting in the way of bigger things. It's understandable if you need to learn the way in which you change an engine, for instance, and especially if you're talking something that complicated, naturally that's an involved mess of a job. You EXPECT it to be complicated.

What you WOULDN'T expect if you were me is that something as simple as a screw or nut being stubborn to remove would get in the way of doing the other far more complicated things. Such remedial types of things are things I consider it to be that it should practically be automatic that they just happen. Period. It would be like being a chef & you can't get the stupid gas stove to light--once the stove is going, you can do all of these wonderful things & come up with wonderful creations that make people just go "wow, you can really freaking cook" etc, but something as remedial as the gas stove won't light keeps getting in your way.

Oh yes, I have ZERO and I mean ZERO patience for something like that. Heck, I once put the hammer to the CD-ROM on a computer because I was trying to remove it to replace it with my first-ever CD-RW (back in 2001) and I couldn't get the CD-ROM screws loosened. At that point I totally forgot about the original purpose of the work (upgrading the CD-ROM to a CD-RW) and didn't care about anything else but that that stupid CD-ROM (the old one) was absolutely going to come out of there, no matter how, even if I had to destroy the entire computer just for the principle of "when I say some out, I mean--COME OUT!!!!" Fortunately nothing electronic besides the old CD-ROM was harmed (not even the hard drive amazingly) and I simply bought a new computer case and "transplanted" everything successfully. And yes, I made sure not to over-tighten the CD-RW screws or any other ones, and even tested that they could be easily removed before finishing. To me the problem isn't my short fuse, but that such things like that happen and they absolutely should not ever happen, no matter the laws of physics, no matter anything period. It may be illogical, but such things are just so extremely annoying.
Wow, I can't begin to think about taking a hammer to a computer. My brother gets that way at times. He gets so mad he can't think in a logical manner. Needless to say, he does NOT work on his car.
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:40 AM
 
3,279 posts, read 5,318,749 times
Reputation: 6149
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonMike7 View Post
I wonder if those commenting understand that the lug nut isn't stubborn, but that the entire stud and lug is spinning in place with the wheel and brake rotor still attached.
Yes, that is exactly what happened, originally anyway. I was loosening it & noticed that the lug nut was spinning FOREVER counter-clockwise for loosening, but wouldn't come off. I then figured out that the stud had become separated from the wheel-hub but was still present in some manner of way to where removing the wheel was now impossible.

For whatever reason, I decided to try again with removing it, and besides encountering this problem, 1 other one became stripped to where I couldn't reattach it, and 1 other came off completely when I applied "bully force" to it when it became stubborn. That all left me with only 2 studs out of 5.

The shop informed me that they managed to re-attach all 3 and it cost about $65. For some reason I'm not particularly furious, yet I can imagine being so later, to wit--$65 just because the stupid lug nuts refused to budge? Ugh!

Oh well.
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:40 PM
 
15,796 posts, read 20,504,199 times
Reputation: 20974
[quote=miu;32646192] we put anti-seize on the threads of the wheel studs.

[quote]

This helps out big time


And torque wrench on the lug install as well. You really don't have to crank the crap out of them. 80 ft-lbs isn't much force on a tire iron for the average adult male.
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Old 12-17-2013, 02:53 PM
 
3,279 posts, read 5,318,749 times
Reputation: 6149
[quote=BostonMike7;32648373][quote=miu;32646192] we put anti-seize on the threads of the wheel studs.

Quote:

This helps out big time

And torque wrench on the lug install as well. You really don't have to crank the crap out of them. 80 ft-lbs isn't much force on a tire iron for the average adult male.
That's the thing, I agree in terms of over-tightening lug nuts. Shops are BAD about doing that, and sometimes other people & when I tell them not to tighten them so freaking tight so that if someone needs to change a tire they can, they grumble a bunch of nonsense about the wheel possibly falling off. I always tell them, in a resounding voice, "you don't have to put it on so tight that even King Kong can't get them off."

I swear, they want to prove how much of a MAN!!! they are doing that apparently. Idiots.
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Old 12-17-2013, 03:21 PM
 
Location: Oceania
8,610 posts, read 7,894,412 times
Reputation: 8318
Quote:
Originally Posted by MckinneyOwnr View Post
I don't think you have the right... temperment, to be working on cars.

I've found that your method (getting extremely angry and looking to destroy the problem rather than fix it) always causes more problems than it solves.

I remember once when I was very young - 19 - I was working on my 66 Belair and trying to remove tie rod ends. They wouldn't come off using the correct fork which peeved me to the point of crawling out from under the car and beating the front fender with a large mallet. It made me feel better at the moment but I immediately wanted to choke myself for the outburst as well as damage I did.

A few years later I learned to allow for problems that arise as they will always do so. Good tools help as does having a 2nd car. I have a friend who is a life long mechanic and he knows tips and tricks I had never seen before. I can do anything that doesn't require me to remove a transmission, though I have done that several times. I am older and don't care to lift those things any longer. Sure, they make transmission jacks but you still have to wrestle them around.
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Old 12-17-2013, 04:10 PM
 
3,279 posts, read 5,318,749 times
Reputation: 6149
An update that may matter--I tried to remove the lug nuts to finish the brake job, and 2 of the 3 studs came loose AGAIN! Furious I returned to the shop & he told me they were doing that, but were fine once he managed to get them on, which required a special tool of some sort. I watched & it involved him using a screwdriver to hold the stud still so the lug nut would tighten successfully.

He stated that it was fine that way as long as you don't remove it again, but if you have a need to then it would need a new spindle. (He also said he saw the brake pads while in there & they looked fine, so apparently I was doing all of this for nothing anyway.)

Does this sound right?
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Old 12-20-2013, 03:52 PM
 
Location: Keosauqua, Iowa
9,614 posts, read 21,270,240 times
Reputation: 13670
Quote:
Originally Posted by shyguylh View Post
That's the thing, I agree in terms of over-tightening lug nuts. Shops are BAD about doing that, and sometimes other people & when I tell them not to tighten them so freaking tight so that if someone needs to change a tire they can, they grumble a bunch of nonsense about the wheel possibly falling off. I always tell them, in a resounding voice, "you don't have to put it on so tight that even King Kong can't get them off."

I swear, they want to prove how much of a MAN!!! they are doing that apparently. Idiots.
Actually, most shops over-tighten the lug nuts because the lug nuts on aluminum wheels need to be re-torqued after being driven a few miles, and they know that nine times out of ten the customer won't return it to the shop to have it done or take the time to do it himself. So they over-torque the nuts to ensure that they won't come off and create a liability for the shop owner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shyguylh View Post
An update that may matter--I tried to remove the lug nuts to finish the brake job, and 2 of the 3 studs came loose AGAIN! Furious I returned to the shop & he told me they were doing that, but were fine once he managed to get them on, which required a special tool of some sort. I watched & it involved him using a screwdriver to hold the stud still so the lug nut would tighten successfully.

He stated that it was fine that way as long as you don't remove it again, but if you have a need to then it would need a new spindle. (He also said he saw the brake pads while in there & they looked fine, so apparently I was doing all of this for nothing anyway.)

Does this sound right?
Kind of odd that he referred to the hub as a spindle; but, yes, it sounds like the holes where the studs go have become wallered out to the point where they will no longer hold the knurled shoulder in place while the nut is being turned. It's not common, but it explains the issue you're having perfectly.
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Old 12-20-2013, 03:58 PM
 
2,341 posts, read 12,045,619 times
Reputation: 2040
Quote:
Originally Posted by shyguylh View Post
An update that may matter--I tried to remove the lug nuts to finish the brake job, and 2 of the 3 studs came loose AGAIN! Furious I returned to the shop & he told me they were doing that, but were fine once he managed to get them on, which required a special tool of some sort. I watched & it involved him using a screwdriver to hold the stud still so the lug nut would tighten successfully.

He stated that it was fine that way as long as you don't remove it again, but if you have a need to then it would need a new spindle. (He also said he saw the brake pads while in there & they looked fine, so apparently I was doing all of this for nothing anyway.)

Does this sound right?
No, that does NOT sound right!
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