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I've seen 2001-2002 MR2s go for around the $6,000 mark with a clean title. Be careful though. There's a lot of salvage title ones out there.
Okay gotcha! Is it any way I can check if the cars actually have salvage title even tho the seller says it doesn't?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Army_Guy
You might be able to find a Camaro/Firebird in the '93-'97 with the LT1 motor in that price range. You get somewhat decent mileage, the car isn't slow even by today's standard. It's still somewhat sporty but I doubt you'd be able to pick up girls in it, though.
aha okay! I think that would be too old for me tbh but thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwguydc
I was going to suggest the MR2 as well, which you might find around $7-8k for starters for the last series. The Z3 with the 1.9 and manual transmission is a simple vehicle, and does not have extraordinarily high maintenance, despite being a BMW. The 2.5 6-cylinder Z3 is based on the e36 325 convertible and has the same quirks as that model. The Miata is fine as well, and equally reliable with an MR2. The only issue with all of these is that they are two-seat convertibles, so not as great for road trips, and any luggage.
I would look at a Toyota Camry Solara/Solara convertible, if you can add to the $5k, as a good convertible will be more expensive. You could find a coupe at that price, but not the convertible. It has a back seat and trunk, like the Mustang, but is based on the Camry, so it's a reliable vehicle with good parts availability. It's not a sporty car, more of a boulevard cruiser, but might not be a bad compromise.
Yeah, they seem like decent cars, the only problem is the space as you mentioned.
I'm guessing you may not know what this car this. It's a 2000-2005 Toyota MR2 Spyder. Like the Mazda MX-5 Miata, it's a rear wheel drive, 2 seater convertible.
The big difference with the Toyota is that it is a mid-engine (engine located behind the seats).
I had a 1993 Toyota MR2 (non-convertible) and I can tell you that trunk space is VERY minimal in this car...not the best choice for a college kid, IMHO.
Also, these cars are very rare. I'm in the USA and I've only seen one in the past few years on the roads and IF you can find one, you better be prepared to ante up.
Here's the trunk space in the MR2 Spyder, in case you're interested:
A bit of space behind the seats
and whatever you can squeeze in there on top of the spare tire:
haha correct
A bit small maybe I think I would need something bigger, but thanks for the suggestion
The 1990 - 1993 could be OK too, but remember that 20 years + is ANCIENT even for a great car like a MAZDA MIATA!
A few tips:
****** DO NOT BUY FROM car flippers!! NEVER.
You will be more likely to get a hunk of junk, that has been shined and cleaned.
Flippers, unlike DEALERS, have no ongoing concern (business), so that they need not maintain minimum acceptable ethical sales practices as DEALERS do.
Yes, you might think that DEALERS are swine, but even the most low-life Registered Auto DEALER is perfect compared to much of the SCUM that engages in "flipping" cars. Nearly states have requirements that specify that if one sells/transfers X number of cars per year than they are engaging in auto sales and thus must be registered as an AUTO DEALER. Because these SCUM that flip cars can and often do break other laws regarding TRANSFERRING automobiles, with respect to TITLES and their laundering/reclassification and sometimes re-listing the ODOMETER as actual instead of EXEMPT or the true miles or true miles unknown. Flippers take the Sgt Schultz, "I Know Nut thing.".
Yeah, Flippers know how to get the Maximum Return from the Minimum if that means stretching/bending laws and because they can disapear or get dumb like Sgt Schultz, there is really nothing that can be done to them to curb their Wild-West Anything Goes methods of doing "car" business.
Not all are SCUM but the majority of them are as it is extremely lucrative for them financially to "severely fraction" a few laws, etc. Watch OUT or you might buy a FLOOD CAR or SALVAGE car that has been laundered by title transfer in STATE without much oversight in this area.
Another Major TIP:
Make Certain That The MIATA has functioning AIR CONDITIONING ( this indicates minimum upkeep)
Make Certain That OWNERSHIP history is minimum ( 6 OWNERS or LESS......one to three is ideal for ten to fifteen year old car)
You WANT a MIATA without an ACCIDENT DAMAGE or one that looks UGLY as in poorly kept, dented up/rusted/chewed up/worn beyond normal, in exterior and interior.
RUN FROM ANY modified MIATAs..................(they can be good, BUT YOU NEED TO BE AN EXPERT TO KNOW WHAT IS GOOD and what AIN'T)
Ownership history / Records and GARAGED CARS are better than cars stored outside in Apt complex parking lots or on the street. Caring/loving AFFLUENT OWNERS are always better than POVERTY/low wage earners & those with very little disposable income.
YOU NEVER WANT ANY CAR that has BEEN REPAINTED recently, UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHO THE OWNER WAS AND WHAT THE CAR LOOKED LIKE IMMEDIATELY BEFORE BEING REPAINTED.
A car with NEW PAINT can HIDE WAY TOO MUCH in problems.....
A car in really good shape with a very nice FACTORY ORIGINAL paint IS MUCH MORE OF AN HONEST REPRESENTATION THAT IT WAS LIKELY WELL KEPT, but not always as you STILL NEED DOCUMENTATION-service receipts to show that ROUTINE Maintenance was done religiously on a timely basis.
You can be sure a cheapskate SMOKER who left cigarette burns in Upholstery and scraped up the fenders and dinged the doors, and is driving around with a cracked windshield and burned out headlight....... you can bet that they have neglected the UPKEEP and Maintenance too.
DEALERS and Flippers WILL CLEAN UP junkers like this so it will appear respectable.
Dealers will also paint some to raise the mkt value and might install a new top.......THIS MAKES IT HARD TO TELL THAT THE CAR HAD A HARD LIFE RECENTLY. It is up to you to KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE BUYING.
The dealer or flipper is not going to tell you that they paid $1275 for it and had Billy Joe paint it at MAACO for $450 and spent $300 for a new top and now are selling it for $5300.
It is up to you to DETERMINE the best ones in the marketplace at the best prices.
MIATAS can be good even from scum flippers and such.
It is a testimony to their quality engineering and abilty to take serious abuse/neglect, but even so better quality = longer life and lower ownership costs.
There may be other cars in the $5000 convertible mktplace BUT NONE OF THEM are RECOMMENDABLE as they are Far Less RELIABLE than the MAZDA Miata.
Buy those other ones AT YOUR OWN RISK. Anything made by GM or Chrysler is a horrible choice!
Anything 15 years old or older that is not a MAZDA MIATA is a HORRIBLE CHOICE in the $5000 price segment.
Do not be tempted to buy anything BMW, MERCEDES, JAGUAR, CHEVROLET CAMARO, PONTIAC FIREBIRD, vintage CHEVROLET CORVAIR, JEEP CJ, PONTIAC SUNFIRE/SUNBIRD-Chevy CAVALIER etc or OTHER RAGTOP junkmobile in the $5000 price segment. You'll be buying a piece of junk that won't be RELIABLE/DRIVEABLE for more than a few days at best. Ditto for ancient but cool looking Alfa, MGB, Fiat 124 spider, Fiat X 1/9 or any Triumphs, Datsun 1600 Datsun 2000...............as five thousand or five hundred thousand and those cars will still be trashmobiles.
A circa 2000 -2002 VW Cabrio could be OK but it might also be a huge piece of Trash as VW quality isn't much better than GM. Ditto for a mid nineties to 2007 Mustang convertible, it might be OK or might be horrible, so investigate the car's history and its service history and what engine/trans it is equipped with. It is vitally important to buy these vehicles from examples with just one or two owners and service records and owners who had the affluence and disposable income to maintain and do oil changes etc when required.
There are NO SUBSTITUTES for Quality engineered and built cars.
Do not Mistake a BMW Z3 or Z4 for the same quality level as a MIATA.
Bmw and Mercedes quality is far below MIATA quality, even though those GERMAN badges might be cooler looking.
AVOID ALL MIATAS that have more than 140,000 MILES UNLESS you know the OWNERSHIP HISTORY and all maintenance records. Too many MIATAS to choose from, why by something that YOU DON"T KNOW ENOUGH.
****DO NOT GET TEMPTED TO BUY A VERY LOW PRICE RANGE, RAGGED MIATA THAT NEEDS WORK, IT IS NOT MONEY WELL SPENT! BUY A QUALITY CAR. Trying to save Two thousand dollars and buy something beat to hell WILL COST YOU Three times as much as buying a DECENT MIATA in the $4000 to $5000 range.
Lastly, if your aim is to use your MIATA year round as a daily driver, you should consider buying one with a HARDTOP.
Even if you live in ALASKA or Northern Canada, make certain that the MIATA has AIRCONDITIONING and that it is fully functional BLOWING ICE COLD.
Power windows or roll up windows or the stereo is immaterial as is cloth or leather...............JUST GET WHATEVER THAT YOU PREFER.......................there are enough MIATAS for you to be picky and get the color and options that you would like even if it takes you three to four months of searching for the right MIATA.
If you are patient and search for the right MIATA for you in great shape, it will serve you well and might be the best $5000 that you have ever spent on a car. Miatas are that good in terms of dependability/reliabilty IF WELL KEPT BY CARING PREVIOUS OWNER(s). They can go beyond 200,000 miles before REPAIR COSTS ESCALATE.
Cali has quite good public transit and taxi service isn't that expensive there. Most people don't own cars there, but like most developing economies that's increasing.
You're kidding, right?
Also, developing economies? CA's economy is pretty well-evolved.
OP, see if you can find a 1989-1992 BMW 3-series. Tough as nails and lots of fun - and not as crazy expensive as the more sought-after coupes.
Miata MX-5 or V6 Mustang or a drop top J-body Chevy Cavalier/Pontiac Sunfire since they are dirt cheap to buy and own and you can drive them into the ground then trade it in for something nicer after college
My one word of caution about the Miata, though (didn't mention it yesterday as I was typing from bed on an iPad) - be very, very, VERY careful with them. Unmodified and un-raced examples are becoming more and more rare, so you really need a mechanic to help you pick out one that won't crap out on you soon after purchase.
drop top J-body Chevy Cavalier/Pontiac Sunfire since they are dirt cheap to buy and own and you can drive them into the ground then trade it in for something nicer after college
Not even with a ten-foot pole and a thousand condoms. The only thing you can trade them in for would be a bicycle because of how well they retain value.
Not even with a ten-foot pole and a thousand condoms. The only thing you can trade them in for would be a bicycle because of how well they retain value.
that's why they are great to buy used for a few Grand less then the op's $5K which leaves money for Maintenance Insurance and Basic repairs.
Plus you can drive it into the ground and then buy something nicer after college since they are great point A to B college student cars.. Parts are cheap and any independent shop can fix them and they offer decent enough fuel economy seating for 4 and a decent size trunk.
Basically if you just want a convertible and are on a tight budget then it is hard to beat a low mileage J-body from the mid 00's..they may not be the best but they are reliable and cheap and ton of college students drive them till they can afford something better but for basic top down everyday transportation they are hard to beat.
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I think I would need something bigger, but thanks for the suggestion
