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Honestly if you try to trade it in, the dealer is going to offer Black Book pricing (what they can get for it at a dealer auction) and with the other issues you can expect to take a larger hit on it.
A lot of dealers will make offers based on KBB, while using NADA to value theirs, since it is higher. Banks typically go by NADA values. I do the same when I sell one.
My recommendation is to go with NADA poor value based on the issues, and haggle down from there. One thing to keep in mind is that the buyer will likely get a title listed with "True mileage unknown" since the odometer quit working. This will ding the value as well.
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