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Something I pass on to folks about disc brakes...never get your rotors turned. They are shaving off metal for no reason at all. New pads will adapt to the groves in the rotors and you will be fine. If you do need something done to the rotors buy new ones as they are inexpensive and readily available. A brake job is one of the easiest DIY jobs one can perform on a vehicle. All you need is a jack and stands. I order my parts online and save $$$.
Something I pass on to folks about disc brakes...never get your rotors turned. They are shaving off metal for no reason at all. New pads will adapt to the groves in the rotors and you will be fine. If you do need something done to the rotors buy new ones as they are inexpensive and readily available. A brake job is one of the easiest DIY jobs one can perform on a vehicle. All you need is a jack and stands. I order my parts online and save $$$.
Not really true. If the rotors are warped from wear or driving through deep water when the brakes are hot then pulsation may be felt during braking application even with new pads installed. Turning the rotors makes the surface true and smooth again so pulsation or noise isn't a concern. Rotors have a minimum thickness stamped on them and as long as they are turned above the minimum thickness specification then turing them is not a problem. Most rotors can be turned 1-2 times during their lifespan under normal wear. Turning rotors costs about $15 each at a machine shop, so if you're dropping $60 each on new rotors when the old ones can be turned then you're throwing good money away. People taking cheap shortcuts doing brake work isn't a good idea.....but to each his own.
$800 for a brake job does normally sound steep, but if they are looking to change out the rear calipers, rotors, and pads, then they're going to need to bleed out the brakes, too - possibly another labor charge they could be adding on
Is it possible to get pictures of the rusted rotors? I mean, I've seen some pretty bad rotors, but I've also seen rotors with light rust on 'em just by sitting over night in a rain storm.
Removing the calipers, disc's, etc on a 12 y/o vehicle can be a pain. Especially if they have not been serviced along the way.
Your estimate may include first quality parts including rotors, pads, calipers, the pins/bolts, plus cleaning the entire assembly, flushing the old fluid, bleeding, and test drive. It 'could' add up to close to $800 with tax and everything.
If the fronts are good, and the rears are not contacting the disc, that sounds to me like a stuck/faulty caliper which is not extending the pads sufficient to contact the rotors. That 'might' be a rusty/stuck caliper and can be cleaned, lubricated and adjusted for a LOT lower cost.
The only way to really tell is to incur the cost of having someone look at it and dismantle/inspect it sufficient to tell you exactly what needs to be done.
BTW, folks quote brake parts all over the place. You get what you pay for: not all brake parts are created anything close to equal. If you desire to keep the car for an extend period of time, you probably want to go with OEM parts and skip the internet stuff which comes at bargain prices (and quality).
Something I pass on to folks about disc brakes...never get your rotors turned. They are shaving off metal for no reason at all. New pads will adapt to the groves in the rotors and you will be fine. If you do need something done to the rotors buy new ones as they are inexpensive and readily available. A brake job is one of the easiest DIY jobs one can perform on a vehicle. All you need is a jack and stands. I order my parts online and save $$$.
That might be true for you and your vehicle but not all. Rotors are not necessarily cheap. My rotors are 250 EACH and thats the online price lol Turning rotors especially when warped extend the life of them and the new pads.
Newer cars have sensors and special tools needed as well. Not as simple as the old F-150 in the driveway lol
Last year one of these national chains charged me $600 for a front brake job that included new rotors and pads. They charged $160 per rotor! When I said the parts store a block away sells rotors for $80 a pair he said we are not a parts store. I was traveling at the time and did not have the time to shop around so I paid. I am pretty sure they would not have agreed to me bringing them parts.
Removing the calipers, disc's, etc on a 12 y/o vehicle can be a pain. Especially if they have not been serviced along the way.
Your estimate may include first quality parts including rotors, pads, calipers, the pins/bolts, plus cleaning the entire assembly, flushing the old fluid, bleeding, and test drive. It 'could' add up to close to $800 with tax and everything.
If the fronts are good, and the rears are not contacting the disc, that sounds to me like a stuck/faulty caliper which is not extending the pads sufficient to contact the rotors. That 'might' be a rusty/stuck caliper and can be cleaned, lubricated and adjusted for a LOT lower cost.
The only way to really tell is to incur the cost of having someone look at it and dismantle/inspect it sufficient to tell you exactly what needs to be done.
BTW, folks quote brake parts all over the place. You get what you pay for: not all brake parts are created anything close to equal. If you desire to keep the car for an extend period of time, you probably want to go with OEM parts and skip the internet stuff which comes at bargain prices (and quality).
Best response. Thumbs up Ted.
The price does sound steep. If your rear brake lines is rust to hell, it would be a pita to remove and time consuming. Perhaps, that's what the tech see and charged you extra labor time for removal.
Being the car is old and honda product. Don't need oem stuff. Since it is rears, rears only use 30 percent of your brake pressure. you can just go with stuff from your local parts store. Wagner rotors and pads, and whatever cailper they offer. Maybe cardone.
If you are handy. With the right tools, jack stands, you can do this yourself. You ll need sockets 10mm 12mm 17mm and 10mm open end box wrench.
The hardest part about this job is removing the brake lines and not damage anything else and also be able to refitt it to the new cailper.
YouTube brake job. It's 2014 and I just found out. There are guys that post how to stuff.
BTW, folks quote brake parts all over the place. You get what you pay for: not all brake parts are created anything close to equal. If you desire to keep the car for an extend period of time, you probably want to go with OEM parts and skip the internet stuff which comes at bargain prices (and quality).
While I do agree with you that in some cases OEM parts are the best choice, however would you care to elaborate on how "internet stuff" is any less quality parts than ones purchased locally or from a dealer when they are EXACTLY the same parts? I can buy almost any OEM grade part I want from Rockauto.com and they're the same parts I could get at the local auto parts stores or car dealerships. Sure, they offer cheap economy grade parts, but so does the local auto parts stores.... so you're assumption that buying parts over the internet are of lees quality and value is totally unfounded unless you can prove otherwise. Internet stores have way less overhead costs than brick and mortar stores so can afford to offer parts at discounted prices, but that does not translate to inferior quality.
Local repairs shops don't use OEM parts either and they buy the same parts I can get from local auto parts stores....the difference in what I pay and what the shops charge their customers is the huge price markup over what the shop pays for parts. The "NET" is that more expensive doesn't necessarily mean better quality...it just means someone took more money out of your pocket and put it into theirs.
Something I pass on to folks about disc brakes...never get your rotors turned. They are shaving off metal for no reason at all. New pads will adapt to the groves in the rotors and you will be fine. If you do need something done to the rotors buy new ones as they are inexpensive and readily available. A brake job is one of the easiest DIY jobs one can perform on a vehicle. All you need is a jack and stands. I order my parts online and save $$$.
There is a difference between disposable rotors and rotors that can be turned. That's why many rotors have a spec for minimum thickness. If the old rotors have signs of wear they need to be tossed or turned. Why would you mess up new pads with bad rotors?
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