Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I've been doing a few things to my wheels so I've had to use a torque wrench at home quite a bit recently. Read an article that stated I should drop the wheel to where it's just touching the ground to stop any rotation but no load and only torque halfway. Then drop all the way and torque to spec. But shops with lifts always do everything with no load, and with an impact wrench no less. My fronts spin freely if up in the air so doing it by hand is different. Logically it seems tightening with full load prevents any lateral movement for the wheel/hub to meet and with the negative camber it doesn't seem it could be the most flush this way.
I ask because I notice slight vibration at highway speeds ever since I started messing with it and BMWs are super sensitive. It could be that I didn't clean the hub/spacers too well but I thought I'd get this right first.
I'd go with the articles suggestions with one addition. Re-torque the wheels after driving a bit as they may loosen some if they weren't exactly seated right. I only use shops that torque the lug nuts per manufactures specs as they aren't all the same. Don't let them tell you it doesn't matter because it does.
When I replace a wheel I use my 4-cross lug wrench in a star pattern while the wheel is off the ground. Even with a front wheel spinning I have no problem getting a good fit. I probably make 2-3 passes to be sure the wheel and lug nuts are properly seated. Then I lower the car and finish with a torque wrench.
I agree, get them well-seated then torque them under load. Shops can get by torquing them while they freewheel with an impact because it spins so much faster. They should be using torque sticks when tightening with an impact to make sure htey aren't over-torqued, but most don't.
If you have aluminum wheels they should be re-torqued after a couple of days.
Location: By the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful sea
68,364 posts, read 54,587,695 times
Reputation: 40841
Quote:
Originally Posted by harpoonalt
I'd go with the articles suggestions with one addition. Re-torque the wheels after driving a bit as they may loosen some if they weren't exactly seated right. I only use shops that torque the lug nuts per manufactures specs as they aren't all the same. Don't let them tell you it doesn't matter because it does.
Personally, I think the yahoos who install wheels with a full-tilt zip gun with no torque limiter should be tied up with the air hose and tossed in the corner with no food or water for a few days.
It's important to note that you should only use your torque wrench to do the final tightening. Use your regular socket wrench to do the initial 90% of the tightening.
If you have aluminum wheels they should be re-torqued after a couple of days.
I agree - one time I forgot to re-torque my wife's winter tires a few days after putting them on. A week later she told me there was a funny sound coming from her wheels when she turned. I went out to check the wheels and sure enough, the lug bolts were so loose that I was able to tighten them by gripping my wrench with 2 fingers.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
