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Similar question: What do you guys use to touch the surface during washing? I got one of those supposed "microfiber" cloths as a gift one year, and literally the very first wipe I made with it scratched my Miata I had at the time. Since then, I've used old washcloths with good effect, but I'd like to try something that is soft and non-abrasive. I have no idea where to get some soft rags at. I seem to remember that my dad and I used old cloth diapers back in the day, but that was ~30 years ago.
Similar question: What do you guys use to touch the surface during washing? I got one of those supposed "microfiber" cloths as a gift one year, and literally the very first wipe I made with it scratched my Miata I had at the time. Since then, I've used old washcloths with good effect, but I'd like to try something that is soft and non-abrasive. I have no idea where to get some soft rags at. I seem to remember that my dad and I used old cloth diapers back in the day, but that was ~30 years ago.
The trick is to not push too hard on your wash mitt. For horizontal surfaces, I let the weight of the wet wash mitt 'clean' the surface. On vertical surfaces, I use just enough pressure to keep the wash mitt in contact with the body. I've used this on numerous dark cars, and it doesn't leave any scratches (which are likely nothing more than light swirls, unless you've got something embedded in your wash mitt).
When I'm really bored, or if a car is really dirty, I blast it with my foam gun before using a wash mitt. The foam gun is just that -- a hose-end "gun" that shoots foam all over your car. If nothing else, it makes your neighbors wonder what you're up to.
Do waxes have to generate so much dust? Is it a sign of using too much? And what about those white residues that end up on plastic trim pieces and are impossible to take off?
Some generate more than others. But yes - it could be that you are applying too much. Just think that if you put on a lot, you will rub all but a few microns of it off. And it will be white dust.
Wax on trim should be avoided for the reasons you mention. Some people use masking tape to control that.
Good ole Turtle wax for my vehicles.
Once waxed, about a week later, after cleaning with plain water (NEVER EVER SOAP) I use Meguiar's ultimate detail spray in the black bottle.
I would challenge any product on the market as to the shine and protection turtle wax gives.
My pickup is 12 years old, and looks better than the night I drove it out of the showroom, and I actually DID drive it off the showroom floor.
Meguair's is fine, imo. I'm not going for show ca or anything. Clayed the Prius when I bought it and I have some Zaino left over that I used. And as previously mentioned, it's mostly about the prep work. Prius is the Nautical Blue which isn't as bad as black for cobwebs but certainly shows them pretty well. Cars get washed before you pick them up. Unless you're taking delivery and specify otherwise, the cobwebs are already there. Short of a full paint restoration (very time consuming), the Prius won't ever look good. It's got a pretty bad case of the cobwebs. Everything I've seen on dealer lots has some cobwebs, although I'd honestly say the mine looks much worse than average. It probably sat around on the lot and got washed with a dirty wash mitt more than the average car.
Again, not going for show car here. Realistically, I'm going to run the car through automatic car washes (already have) and cobwebs are just a fact of life unless you're extremely meticulous with how you wash your car. No point in doing the paint restoration on a car you're just going to scratch back up again as soon as anyone other than you touches the car. Doesn't matter if it's automatic car washes or hand washing. Unless it's a real detailer, they're going to scratch it up. Never really paid for a detailer to wash my car although I have had them detailed on a few occasions. One was very good. The other one I just paid him half the price and told him to leave since he didn't wash the car properly and fixing the damage he would have caused would have cost more than he was being paid.
Actually, only their AIO is a polish. The other products are synthetic sealants.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntwrkguy1
I've been detailing black cars for over 25 years, and I know that the payoff is in the prep work. If you clean and polish the paint correctly, you can use almost any quality wax to get spectacular results on black paint.
Quoted for truth.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyRider
Do waxes have to generate so much dust? Is it a sign of using too much? And what about those white residues that end up on plastic trim pieces and are impossible to take off?
What product are you using? Most modern waxes/sealants do not stain the black plastic trim. The dusting could be using too much or just an inferior product.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Praxis
I use Zaino and Duragloss, they appears to be very similar.
Zaino and Duragloss are made by the same mixing company to their respective specifications by Zaino or Duragloss. There has been much speculation that the two products are functionally the same compound.
prep work is key IMO. I wash my truck w/ dish soap, apply swirl remover, and wash and rinse 3 or 4 times before applying wax. It takes all day. Can't hurry love.
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