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I have used SuperTech full synthetic before. My positive experience is relatively meaningless statistically. Although I usually buy Mobil 1 (just $21.77 for 5qts at Walmart yesterday) I would have no qualms about ST oil.
Their oil filters were much better than the POS Fram units (based on inspection of the internals).
Actually, many of Fram's filters are just fine. Honda even uses one particular kind for OEM purposes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by L-N-L
Like China Bucks and Gerber knives when the gun shop sells USA for a little more. Like Remington 870s that are seconds with a flaw in the finish, crappy checkering etc....when the gun shops is perfect. Like Winchester white box ammo that breaths the definition of "pew" "pew" "pew" because it is weak and underpowered......
I trust Wally World as far as I can throw 'em.
The problem with your lack of logic is that Wal Mart doesn't make any of those products. Take that up with the product vendor and not the folks that are there solely to give them the self space.
Actually, many of Fram's filters are just fine. Honda even uses one particular kind for OEM purposes.
The big three US auto makers have bulletins at all dealers that should a vehicle come in with an oil related failure, the filter is the first thing that is looked at. If the engine wears a Fram filter, the warranty is void. The issue is with the lousy construction of the media core itself. There have been many that have been taken apart, unused, that the filter media is not glued to the cardboard end cap. This results in unfiltered oil and the media will start to come apart causing blockage in the internal oil journals. With most of todays variable cam timing being oil pressure activated, the oil journals to them being extremely small and restricted flow, it's extremely critical to use a quality oil filter. Fram doesn't make the the list.
Honda filters are not made by Fram, absolutely none. They are made by Donaldson and Champion Labs. Champion Labs makes some of the Motorcraft filters and is the supplier of the Ford factory installed oil filters that are grey colored.
There are many "bad" motor oils on the market. Ever go to a convenience store and see an off brand oil? Did you look at the API rating? Most sell an SA rated oil. That's an oil that has zero additives in it. It will not provide the proper lubrication in any engine built in the last 50 years. Use it and expect engine life to be somewhere around 35-40,000 miles with 3000 mile changes. Using a properly rated oil, an engine can easily see 300,000 mile these days. Most of it attributed to lead free gasoline, gas detergents, and the base oils are eons ahead of where they were just 20 years ago, The additive packages have also come a long way providing much more protection and lubricity to the oil. So yeah, there's a lot of bad motor oils out there but most of the name brands are tested several times before the batch is released for sale. Quality motor oils today are not just a bottle of oil. They are synergistic blend of base oils and additives that insure the life of your engine.
I had a work truck that since new it only got ST oil. 200k when I sold it not one oil issue. I just put regular oil. Changed it at 5k intervals. AC Delco filters.
I think a lot of the oil talk is mumbo jumbo. My guess is that one can go to Walmart, buy a jug of $12 Supertech/$3 Fram filter and with manufacturer recommended oil change intervals - their engine will last longer than they'll keep it. I'd be shocked if the same engine lasted more than an extra 5,000 miles with the most expensive motor oils.
There are many "bad" motor oils on the market. Ever go to a convenience store and see an off brand oil? Did you look at the API rating? Most sell an SA rated oil. That's an oil that has zero additives in it.
The latest API is SN. S stands for spark ignition, the N is the latest version with the latest additives. Most good oils are SM, the version before N, and SM is now common as the makers upped their oils to suit over time. Do not go below API SM, if you can get SN then go for it. I have seen some well priced oil at SN, as the makers start to conform to the latest API oil specifications.
As a guide, buy the viscosity that suits your engine. Use "fully" synthetic oil and at least API SM. If the car is new or very new use API SN which may be more expensive until all the makers catch up. There is no need not to use fully synthetic oils these days, as the price has dropped like a stone for these oils. Forget 100% mineral oils, times have moved on. If the engine starts to consume oil try a semi synthetic oil. However by the time that comes about the engine should have done a hell of a lot of miles or there is a malfunction.
I drive manual shift gearboxes. After a while the gear change can become stiff and this is uncomfortable for women. The best solution is fully synthetic gear oil. The US RedLine company make about the best. Put in their gear oils and the shift becomes like moving through butter. Modern gear oil tends to be slippery. The synchro dogs need friction to line up and allow gear shifting. RedLine allows that extra bit of friction to allow the dogs to line up, yet gives full gearbox protection. A fully synthetic gear oil can last the life of the car. However most gearbox/transmission failures are due to metal swarth from the gears and linkages getting into bearings, etc. So changing oil gets rid of the damaging metal. You will find the oil's lubrication qualities are perfectly good, but the metal suspended in he oil will do damage. One automotive engineer told me to change the transmission oil after 5 or 6,000 miles to get rid of the initial swarth in the oil, then at maker recommended changes. He said if they say it is sealed for life, still change it every 50,000 miles.
I think a lot of the oil talk is mumbo jumbo. My guess is that one can go to Walmart, buy a jug of $12 Supertech/$3 Fram filter and with manufacturer recommended oil change intervals - their engine will last longer than they'll keep it. I'd be shocked if the same engine lasted more than an extra 5,000 miles with the most expensive motor oils.
If you want an engine that sounds like nuts rattling in a can do what you suggest. Better still buy the cheapest of the cheap then try it for 8 years then come back and tell us. Penny pinching on a product that costs many thousands is very silly, and not worth considering.
If you want an engine that sounds like nuts rattling in can do what you suggest. Better still buy the cheapest of the cheap then try it for 8 years then come back and tell us. Penny pinching on a product that costs many thousands is very silly, and not worth considering.
Haha. You actually believe Supertech oil causes engine damage? Do you have any scientific evidence or is this just rhetoric?
Haha. You actually believe Supertech oil causes engine damage? Do you have any scientific evidence or is this just rhetoric?
I am sure some of it is OK. You had better do your research before buying though. Look at the API rating, that gives a good indication. Anything less than API SM do not touch as there is no need to as excellent well priced oils are available with API SM. You may find API SL and less, if so avoid.
If anyone tells you they had a car that that ran for 150,000 miles with the cheapest and nastiest oil available and the engine was as good as new, you will be listening to BS.
Your post is just dumb. It has no factual information at all.
"Your wife is right. Put the cheapest oil available in the truck and soon it will sound like nuts rattling in a can." There is a lot of fact around that.
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