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Old 10-05-2014, 11:47 AM
 
245 posts, read 304,267 times
Reputation: 174

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reliable doesn't have to be new, it just has to still have a warranty, thru the dealer. Many can be had in that manner for 5-10k, with monthly payments as low as $300. So no, you don't need to take the hit of losing ton of money when you turn the key, jus to have a reliable car. If it's so vital that you get somewhere, its easy to keep a small motorcycle in the back of a mini-van.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:08 PM
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n/a posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ7 View Post
I can tell just by your tone and expression used that you are sick and tired of looking at this POS. Time to turn it in and get something new, something you'll be happy with and more enjoyable. Let's face it we all spend a good portion of time in traffic, why not make it enjoyable?

The problems with the vehicle are minor IMO, if you were to get them fixed would the vehicle be worth more or would it still retain the same value? If the latter trade it in.
This.

You don't like it and are going to spend a not insignificant portion of your life it. Time to dump it for something you don't hate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MckinneyOwnr
We've owned a Hyundai before, a 2007 as well in fact, and while the cars look and perform great when new, they also tend to fall apart rather quickly at around the 5 year mark. Long term quality/reliability just isn't there for Hyundai yet.
Have to agree. I had a 2005 and started to fail apart at about 50k. It quickly turned into a money pit and by the time I traded it in (2013) it couldn't make it above about 40 mph and would jerk like crazy when shifting gears (I forget what the problem was, but I got it fixed a couple times and it always came back after a few months). The upholstery was also crap - the seats looked awful and the ceiling was falling down.

I love the look of the Veloster but there's no way I would go Hyundai again without strong evidence that their long term build quality and reliability has improved.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:57 PM
 
3,278 posts, read 5,387,480 times
Reputation: 4072
When I bought my 2011 Subaru Outback in 2011, the new cars were actually CHEAPER than the used ones because demand was so high.

Used cars are cheaper than their new counterparts, but quite often they are proportionately more expensive.
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Old 10-05-2014, 01:36 PM
 
Location: Westside Houston
1,022 posts, read 1,972,345 times
Reputation: 1903
A new car only makes sense, when you r able to afford it without thinking twice about payments. Willing and able

When you start to rationalize economic sense. Then used cars come to mind, budgets, reliability, cost of ownership, etc. only you can determine what's worth to you.
Are you willing and able?

When you make payments to repair shops to keep your car running.
Your willing and able. And doing it. Is it worth it? Is it worth dumping money into that old car to keep it running?

In ops case, you re annoyed and hate your car. It makes absolutely no sense to keep it.

Last edited by Chris V; 10-05-2014 at 01:53 PM..
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Old 10-05-2014, 04:44 PM
 
Location: North Texas
24,561 posts, read 40,274,604 times
Reputation: 28559
I had to spend an hour pacing around an Auto Zone parking lot while some quite shady characters took my door apart to raise the window and duct-tape it in the closed position so I could drive around this week. It's not that I don't have the money to take it to a shop...I do. They're just all CLOSED on Sundays because apparently, nobody needs a mechanic on a Sunday.

I kicked this ex-con $20 to do that, and I'll kick him another $30 to install the $150 regulator I had to order from the auto parts store.

As for the suspension...ugh, who knows. I really DON'T want to fix it because there's so much other crap wrong with the car...all relatively minor but it all adds up. And it's CONSTANT. And yes, sometimes I get into it and it doesn't start. I have to jerk the steering wheel back and forth and try it several times to get it to turn over. I've taken it to the dealer on that one and they can't find anything wrong with it.

I hate that car. Hate it hate it hate it.
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Old 10-05-2014, 05:46 PM
 
4,361 posts, read 7,174,727 times
Reputation: 4866
OP - I think you are learning a valuable lesson. I am a formerly ASE certified mechanic (the certification is expired). I worked in garages as I went to college at night. I graduated college about 20 years ago. As my career developed, I quickly realized that having a newer, reliable automobile was worth far more to me and my career than not having a car payment. Since I worked for 7 years as a mechanic, I also realized that ALL vehicles will eventually need extensive repair. After 5 years, most cars will need regular repairs for small issues. These repairs also begin to add up. At the garage I worked at, we had hundreds of regular customers who drove a wide variety of vehicles. On average, they each put about $900 per year into their vehicles (about $1450 in 2014 dollars). A new, $25k vehicle on a 4 year loan at 5% interest will cost you, on average, $500/yr in interest. You will "lose" about $12k in depreciation during that time. So, the question becomes: Are you willing to pay a $2k/yr premium to not have to deal with the inevitable issues an older car will present? And, as your career advances, you may find yourself in a position to take advantage of better offers which diminish that premium. To me, the answer is an easy 'yes.'
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Old 10-06-2014, 07:48 AM
 
Location: Montgomery County, PA
16,569 posts, read 15,266,208 times
Reputation: 14590
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandalorian View Post
When I bought my 2011 Subaru Outback in 2011, the new cars were actually CHEAPER than the used ones because demand was so high.
This I could never understand. How come you and I see fact but others don't? What makes someone pay just 2 grand less for a 3 year old car with perhaps 50,000 miles on it?
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:02 AM
 
Location: SF Bay Area
13,520 posts, read 22,124,133 times
Reputation: 20235
Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyRider View Post
This I could never understand. How come you and I see fact but others don't? What makes someone pay just 2 grand less for a 3 year old car with perhaps 50,000 miles on it?
Here's a sample for my area:
2014 Outback 2.5 premium can be had for $27k (invoice)
Used 2011 Outback 2.5 premium at dealerships are listed at $21-22.5k with 35-50kmi
With some negotiations, I'd say the difference is $5k-7k which isn't insignificant.
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:04 AM
 
5,481 posts, read 8,572,797 times
Reputation: 8284
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDGeek View Post
Advice appreciated.

I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6 with about 56k miles on it. Its suspension is shot. I've had estimates ranging from $900 to $2000 to fix it. It has minor but VERY annoying electrical problems. The locks sometimes fail. The rear driver's side window falls open during highway driving...as in it goes down on its own and I can't raise it with the power window button and have to stop, use both hands to shift the glass back up into position, then keep going. It's VERY annoying, and from what I've heard is an expensive repair not covered by Hyundai's 10-year warranty. It also makes a faint "twang" noise whenever I make a hard turn.

It gets crappy gas mileage; I average maybe 21 miles per gallon with combined city and highway driving. It's a hog. The brake lights constantly stop working and I'm always having to get them fixed. Etc., etc., etc.

Basically I'm fed up with the damn thing. However, it's only 7 years old and I only paid it off 2 years ago. If I bought another car I'd look for a gently used one first; I don't like buying new because I think it's a ripoff. I've had an estimate of its trade-in value come in at about $5k, but that was without them knowing about the rear window problem. I'm sure any dealership could fix that problem in less than an hour quite cheaply, but they'd ding ME on its value hardcore.

Thoughts?

I just want a nice car where everything works and that gets good mileage. And doesn't sound like old springs whenever I drive.
Suspension is shot at 56k miles? What do you live in a town full of cobblestone roads?
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:43 AM
 
Location: Huntsville
6,009 posts, read 6,662,130 times
Reputation: 7042
You mentioned sway bars and control arms. The sway bar could just be bushings and if so, are relatively cheap to replace if you find the right person. The control arms could be bushings as well. If so, all of those are wear items and you'll see this on ANY car at some point. My 05 Titan had to have shocks, struts, sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings installed right at 100k miles. The shocks and struts were completely shot to the point of being painful to ride in. Not fixing them immediately sped up the disintegration of the sway bar bushings and end links because of the added stress on those components.

It happens. I wouldn't call a vehicle a POS because normal maintenance items need maintenance. At 56k miles with these issues, it really sounds like there has been some lack of maintenance (not meant as an insult) that has allowed this to happen. I'd recommend repairing it and going from there. If you're just dead set on getting something new, then go for it.

But (if it were me) I'd probably do the math on it and figure out what is more cost effective first. That car should have a lot of life left. I have friends with Sonatas with many more miles than yours who swear by them. And the V6 mileage is about right. We have a brand new V6 Toyota Venza that gets 21mpg on the nose.
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