Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Whenever I make a sharp turn or a fast turn on a hill, the check brake light turns on and makes a beeping sound, but as soon as I finish the turn the check brake light turns off. The car handles completely the same as always to my knowledge.
Check your fluid.. Likely low. Fill it up, and see how long it takes to go low again.
You're likely leaking fluid somewhere, but not certainly. If you had a brake job done about the time this started, they may have bled the system and not topped it off. When you make the turn, centrifugal force is throwing the fluid away from the sensor and that turns the check brake light on.
Even if there is no leak, it might be time for a brake job if you haven't had it done in a while. As the brake pads wear, more fluid moves from the reservoir into the brake lines to operate the brakes, resulting in a lower fluid level. If the reservoir was never topped off as the pads wear down, then it is likely the brake fluid level is low enough to trigger the low fluid warning sensor as you turn, and you get the "check brakes" light.
Check the fluid level, inspect or have your brakes inspected, and add some fluid to bring it up to the MAX level if it is not there and the brakes are still OK to use.
Even if there is no leak, it might be time for a brake job if you haven't had it done in a while. As the brake pads wear, more fluid moves from the reservoir into the brake lines to operate the brakes, resulting in a lower fluid level. If the reservoir was never topped off as the pads wear down, then it is likely the brake fluid level is low enough to trigger the low fluid warning sensor as you turn, and you get the "check brakes" light.
Check the fluid level, inspect or have your brakes inspected, and add some fluid to bring it up to the MAX level if it is not there and the brakes are still OK to use.
Good luck!
What he said.
Most likely, as the pads wore, the level of brake fluid dropped in the Master cylinder as the caliper pistons were pushed out to compensate for the worn brake pads.
You can add a little fluid to stop the light from coming on, but you will want to check your pads and see how much material is left.
Even if there is no leak, it might be time for a brake job if you haven't had it done in a while. As the brake pads wear, more fluid moves from the reservoir into the brake lines to operate the brakes, resulting in a lower fluid level. If the reservoir was never topped off as the pads wear down, then it is likely the brake fluid level is low enough to trigger the low fluid warning sensor as you turn, and you get the "check brakes" light.
Check the fluid level, inspect or have your brakes inspected, and add some fluid to bring it up to the MAX level if it is not there and the brakes are still OK to use.
Good luck!
This is correct. I have read that most cars with disc brakes are set up such that if you fill the brake fluid reservoir to the "Max" line when you install new front pads, and keep the "stupid lube" monkeys away from it, if the system does not leak (it should not) when the pads are ready for replacement, the fluid level will be near the "Min" line.
Not certain this works on all cars, but most I have checked, it's at least close.
This is correct. I have read that most cars with disc brakes are set up such that if you fill the brake fluid reservoir to the "Max" line when you install new front pads, and keep the "stupid lube" monkeys away from it, if the system does not leak (it should not) when the pads are ready for replacement, the fluid level will be near the "Min" line.
Not certain this works on all cars, but most I have checked, it's at least close.
That idea would work well if cars wore their front and rear brake pads down at an even rate.
However most of the cars i've had the pleasure of maintaining usually wear the front pads down much faster than the rears, so that the red brake light won't come on due to the rear pads still having plenty of material left.
That idea would work well if cars wore their front and rear brake pads down at an even rate.
However most of the cars i've had the pleasure of maintaining usually wear the front pads down much faster than the rears, so that the red brake light won't come on due to the rear pads still having plenty of material left.
The lowering reservoir level only works for disc brake systems. On a 4-wheel disc setup, yeah, it won't work exactly as the fronts normally wear faster than the rears. On a FW disc with rear drums, it works pretty good as an indicator of *front wheel* pad wear *only*.
If you have an antique with drums all round, the master cylinder level should not change with shoe wear, assuming auto-adjusting drums or that you keep manual adjustments done.
Shouldn't need to say it but will anyway - the way to determine how much pad or shoe life you have left is to look at the pads or shoes. Keep in mind that single-piston calipers frequently wear the inner pad more than the outer, so you generally have to take the road wheel off to see what's up.
Most disc brake pads have a noise maker attached that will start a squeaking or squealing noise when you get on the brakes before you wear the pads completely out.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
