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Old 01-23-2008, 11:02 AM
 
Location: appleton, wi
1,357 posts, read 5,865,846 times
Reputation: 644

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i think i liked redline in the engine the best of the three. i like to think i am sensitive to subtle changes and the oil felt a bit smoother. also i don't have an oil temp gauge but it seemed to hold itsself steady on the track. but it is more expensive and harder to come by so i switched to amsoil for the winter. amsoil is local to me, so easy to come by, and cold start up performance is extremely important to me (the very reason i switched to syn years ago). they develop that stuff way up in northern wisconsin so...

i may do redline again come spring. i've been using their trans/diff fluids for years with great results, too. no oil consumption; its a pretty new car anyway (07 WRX). i have noticed less trans fluid consuption with redline though vs oem stuff
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:47 PM
 
951 posts, read 1,654,765 times
Reputation: 800
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdJones View Post
Wrong...wrong. Buying OE filters is not dumb: at least they have been tested for a particular application. You have peace of mind about at least getting the minimum standards of filtration your manufactures suggests for your particular vehicle. .... Saving a couple of quarters in a FRAM filter might be dumb
Actually, what I attempted to convey is that buying the OE filter is not the end all for your car. Every after market filter is designed to fit your vehicle just the same as the "OE". What defines OE anyway? The thing is made by an outside vendor to the specs the manufacturer sets. In most cases it's made by a company making the aftermarket version as well. Besides, the Magnuson and Moss act of 1975 said that you can use any aftermarket filter and not void your warranty. So how is saving money for an item that is the same as "OE" dumb? Seems like smart consumer sense to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EdJones View Post
Wrong again. Unless you send a sample of your oil to a lab for an analysis, you won't be 100% sure about how many miles you can go with your oil. That ALSO APPLIES to synthetics. Besides, oil is not the only factor that has determined how long modern engines can go between oil changes.......Both conventional and synthetic oils have been tested many, many times for these purposes. It is believed they begin to break down at the molecular level around the 3K mark (for regular oil) and at the 5-7K mark for synthetics. Some synthetics such as Royal Purple and Amsoil have even higher rates.
People, stop spreading the wrong information!
First, you need to site specific studies that show the results that you have ascertained to be true. Sounds more like subjectivism. Having used and sold Amsoil for over 15 years, I can tell you, sir, that synthetic (true synths) oils do not break down on the molecular level like you allege. Amsoil is a 25k mile oil change. It's proven and the basis of their success. The base stocks do not break down. Actually it's more like the additive packages that break down. The synthetic base stocks are nearly impervious to molecular breakdown. Combustion gases, dirt and ash deposits are troublesome, true. It's the basis for changing oil. A decent oil filter should do the job. The amount of dirt required before a filter by-passes is huge. Most filters can handle it.
True about oil analysis. That is a real indicator to how your engine is performing. If I were an over the road trucker putting major miles on my rig, I would do it. For me, the weekend warrior--nah.

So, who is spreading what?
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:07 AM
 
48,502 posts, read 96,838,702 times
Reputation: 18304
I would worry more about the things that a engine use to dump into the enviroment that now end up back in the engine. Many have a acid effect on things like the main bearings. The best data available is test performed by the makers that are the basis for the owner manual.
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Old 01-25-2008, 02:56 PM
 
Location: appleton, wi
1,357 posts, read 5,865,846 times
Reputation: 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryfry View Post
Actually, what I attempted to convey is that buying the OE filter is not the end all for your car. Every after market filter is designed to fit your vehicle just the same as the "OE". What defines OE anyway? The thing is made by an outside vendor to the specs the manufacturer sets. In most cases it's made by a company making the aftermarket version as well. Besides, the Magnuson and Moss act of 1975 said that you can use any aftermarket filter and not void your warranty. So how is saving money for an item that is the same as "OE" dumb? Seems like smart consumer sense to me.
true, auto mfg's don't make their filters in-house. purolator makes all of the subaru filters for instance. but you hit the nail right on the head (in bold) and didn't even realize it. what defines OEM is fit, form, function, specification. OE for instance specifies a certain filtering element, number of pleats, finished quality, other features such as, say a pressure release valve, etc.

just because a filter manufacturer makes something that fits and reasonably functions doesn't mean that it does the job as well as the OEM specifies. take the whipping boy fram for instance. shoddy quality, low number of pleats, cost cutter element material... if you buy an OEM filter it will meet OEM specs. i remember vw people back in the day having problems with aftermarket oil filters on 16v's due to their lack of the pressure valve (which was in the OE filter)
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Old 01-26-2008, 05:30 PM
 
951 posts, read 1,654,765 times
Reputation: 800
Quote:
Originally Posted by yo vanilla View Post
just because a filter manufacturer makes something that fits and reasonably functions doesn't mean that it does the job as well as the OEM specifies. take the whipping boy fram for instance. shoddy quality, low number of pleats, cost cutter element material... if you buy an OEM filter it will meet OEM specs....
Huh? It has to meet the OE specs. BTW, the "OE" filter installed at the factory is usually not the same as the dealer replacement. Case in point: BMW's OE filters are usually European made. The replacements are made in China. Certainly at a lesser cost. So your argument is an empty one.

As for Fram, the number of pleats doesn't constitute a better filter. The ability of the media to stop contaminants is. I will stand by my previous statement: in 20 years of selling Fram, I have never had one, single, solitary, warranty or defective claim against any filter. That goes for every type, from heavy truck on down to motorcycles. Same goes for their professional line, Defense. So where's the "shoddy"? You read one biased internet study and you know all the answers. Please....
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Old 01-26-2008, 05:41 PM
 
310 posts, read 1,196,854 times
Reputation: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryfry View Post
Huh? It has to meet the OE specs. BTW, the "OE" filter installed at the factory is usually not the same as the dealer replacement. Case in point: BMW's OE filters are usually European made. The replacements are made in China. Certainly at a lesser cost. So your argument is an empty one.

As for Fram, the number of pleats doesn't constitute a better filter. The ability of the media to stop contaminants is. I will stand by my previous statement: in 20 years of selling Fram, I have never had one, single, solitary, warranty or defective claim against any filter. That goes for every type, from heavy truck on down to motorcycles. Same goes for their professional line, Defense. So where's the "shoddy"? You read one biased internet study and you know all the answers. Please....
I agree I've been using Fram for 15 years and never had a problem. I prefer Fram and Valvoline 10W 30 for all my vehicles. I'm a bit picky about my oile but give a bit on what filters I use. Most the time its Fram then Wix and sometimes I buy a mopar filter. EW
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:53 AM
 
Location: Knoxville,TN
26 posts, read 126,919 times
Reputation: 23
Beware of Fram, STP and Tech 2000 (Walmart) They use cardboard and plastic for their cores. Anything else is acceptable. I personally use WIX products, like NAPA Gold. Napa Silver is Purolator. One easy way to identify who makes it is by the stock number 10111 example is Purolator, 5055 is WIX, PFXX is ACDelco.

If I cant get a WIX product, I will use Purolator. I have even been unhappy with ACDelco as my oil get dirty much faster with them.
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Old 01-28-2008, 06:32 AM
 
310 posts, read 1,196,854 times
Reputation: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaganEgyptian View Post
Beware of Fram, STP and Tech 2000 (Walmart) They use cardboard and plastic for their cores. Anything else is acceptable. I personally use WIX products, like NAPA Gold. Napa Silver is Purolator. One easy way to identify who makes it is by the stock number 10111 example is Purolator, 5055 is WIX, PFXX is ACDelco.

If I cant get a WIX product, I will use Purolator. I have even been unhappy with ACDelco as my oil get dirty much faster with them.

lol, beware. Fram has been around for years and are great filters. What do the other brands have for a core? EW
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Old 01-28-2008, 08:47 AM
 
Location: appleton, wi
1,357 posts, read 5,865,846 times
Reputation: 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryfry View Post
Huh? It has to meet the OE specs. BTW, the "OE" filter installed at the factory is usually not the same as the dealer replacement. Case in point: BMW's OE filters are usually European made. The replacements are made in China. Certainly at a lesser cost. So your argument is an empty one.

As for Fram, the number of pleats doesn't constitute a better filter. The ability of the media to stop contaminants is. I will stand by my previous statement: in 20 years of selling Fram, I have never had one, single, solitary, warranty or defective claim against any filter. That goes for every type, from heavy truck on down to motorcycles. Same goes for their professional line, Defense. So where's the "shoddy"? You read one biased internet study and you know all the answers. Please....

thats funny since i've replaced the original filters on multiple new cars of mine with exact replacements, right down to the part number and "made in...". yeah i check them.

pleats are important; more pleats = more oil flow. materials are not all the same. y'know not to point a finger directly at you, but every time i'v ever heard someone yell i use them "without issues" they tend to be less demanding than those of us who expect more than just good enough to keep it from the warranty dept. cut a few open against direct competitors. it's easy to do with a dremel.

and btw thanks for ASSuming my knowledge and experience is all inside one internet website.
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