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If I'm planning to store a vehicle (in the north; assume some sub-zero temps) for a year or more, what do I need to do to keep it from being damaged by sitting and/or the elements? Thanks!
If I'm planning to store a vehicle (in the north; assume some sub-zero temps) for a year or more, what do I need to do to keep it from being damaged by sitting and/or the elements? Thanks!
Again, not enough information.
Covered storage? Heated storage? On pavement? In yard?
Traveling/working overseas?
Newer car? Older car? High mileage? Low mileage?
Location: San Ramon, Seattle, Anchorage, Reykjavik
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Other than the heated storage statement I don't think it matters. I parked my Land Cruiser outside in a dirt lot at the Homer, Alaska airport for well over a year. All I did was get the oil changed, filled up the gas tank, and parked it. Made sure the emergency brake was NOT engaged. Disconnected the battery as well. When I returned I hooked up the battery and fired it up. The battery obviously wasn't still at full charge but the LC started with no problems. I can't see how it could be damaged sitting outside up north unless you have inadequate anti-freeze and/or washer fluid. Nothing else to hurt.
I've frequently stored a car in the northeast for 2+ years. Here's what I do.
Location. Doesn't need to be heated, but you need a place where humidity won't be contained. Don't park on grass or moisty dirt unless you want your exhaust/brakelines/chassis to rust out on you. Try to stick to pavement/asphault.
Use a cover, but not a cheap one. Cheap ones will blow around and chafe the paint. A tight fitting one will restrict movement, and get one that allows moisture to release from under the cover, or you run into rust issues as in the first point I made.
Overinflate the tires. Will prevent flat-spotting although I've never personally had this issue. I've let the car sit on the tires, or I've put it on jackstands. If you yank the wheels and put it on stands, put the stands on the suspension to keep it loaded. Storing a car with the suspension unloaded will cause the extended shocks/struts to possible rust on the shafts, and may cause issues when weight is put back on the suspension. Plus sometimes the car seems "lifted" for a few weeks after this until it settles back down again.
Battery. Pull it out and out it on a trickle charger. if the car is ina garage/storage unit, you can leave it in and hook the charger up. I recommend the Deltran battery charger. Your battery is not going to go 1-2 years without issue unless you trickle charge it. Or just let it go...and expect to possibly have to buy a new battery when the time comes. battery charger $40....new battery approx. $100. Your call.
Oil. Change the engine oil before parking it. This is to remove the oild oil which tends to contain acids from combustion that can do damage if allowed to sit. I've pulled engines apart that sat for months with old oil in them. Evereything stained a nasty yellow. I'd hate to go long term line this.
Rodent protection. Stuff socks with steel wool up your tailpipes, and I typically remove the airbox and block the throttle body to prevent rodents from making nests in there. I had the fun experience of trying to remove a mouse nest from a muffler once.
Fuel. I've topped the tank off and added fuel stabilizer. Not sure if this is best practice as the new E10 fuel tends to go bad after a year or so of sitting. I've had to siphone and add fuel to get a car to start, so not sure in the future if i'll top it off. I may go half a tank, and then add more right before starting the engine.
I've frequently stored a car in the northeast for 2+ years. Here's what I do.
Location. Doesn't need to be heated, but you need a place where humidity won't be contained. Don't park on grass or moisty dirt unless you want your exhaust/brakelines/chassis to rust out on you. Try to stick to pavement/asphault.
Use a cover, but not a cheap one. Cheap ones will blow around and chafe the paint. A tight fitting one will restrict movement, and get one that allows moisture to release from under the cover, or you run into rust issues as in the first point I made.
Overinflate the tires. Will prevent flat-spotting although I've never personally had this issue. I've let the car sit on the tires, or I've put it on jackstands. If you yank the wheels and put it on stands, put the stands on the suspension to keep it loaded. Storing a car with the suspension unloaded will cause the extended shocks/struts to possible rust on the shafts, and may cause issues when weight is put back on the suspension. Plus sometimes the car seems "lifted" for a few weeks after this until it settles back down again.
Battery. Pull it out and out it on a trickle charger. if the car is ina garage/storage unit, you can leave it in and hook the charger up. I recommend the Deltran battery charger. Your battery is not going to go 1-2 years without issue unless you trickle charge it. Or just let it go...and expect to possibly have to buy a new battery when the time comes. battery charger $40....new battery approx. $100. Your call.
Oil. Change the engine oil before parking it. This is to remove the oild oil which tends to contain acids from combustion that can do damage if allowed to sit. I've pulled engines apart that sat for months with old oil in them. Evereything stained a nasty yellow. I'd hate to go long term line this.
Rodent protection. Stuff socks with steel wool up your tailpipes, and I typically remove the airbox and block the throttle body to prevent rodents from making nests in there. I had the fun experience of trying to remove a mouse nest from a muffler once.
Fuel. I've topped the tank off and added fuel stabilizer. Not sure if this is best practice as the new E10 fuel tends to go bad after a year or so of sitting. I've had to siphone and add fuel to get a car to start, so not sure in the future if i'll top it off. I may go half a tank, and then add more right before starting the engine.
If I'm planning to store a vehicle (in the north; assume some sub-zero temps) for a year or more, what do I need to do to keep it from being damaged by sitting and/or the elements? Thanks!
The owner's manual should say what to do in cases of storage.
You really don't have to remove the tires but it is advisable to get them off the ground and loading the suspension is a good idea. I think in addition to the steel wool up the exhaust pipe some mothballs placed around the engine and other places may help deter critters.
If you're worried about rodents, throw fresh fabric softener sheets in the cabin, trunk, glove box, etc. Also, before you turn off the car for the last time make sure you set the air to Recirculate in order to close off the vents from the outside.
I haven't stored cars, but annual storage of farm machinery is pretty common. I change the oil, run it dry (gasoline) or stabilize the fuel (diesel), fog the cylinders and intake valves with ATF, then rock the engine so the valves are closed. I bag the intake and exhaust. Batteries go on a computerized maintainer, not a trickle charger. Equipment is stored in an open shed with plenty of air flow.
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