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This trick won't work because clearing the codes causes all monitors to go into the "not ready" state. The inspector will fail a car with more than one "not ready" monitor.
After clearing the codes, driving normally for a week or two brings the monitors back into "ready" state, but the MIL will come back too. (MIL = Malfunction Indicator Light, a/k/a Service Engine Soon light, a/k/a Check Engine Light.)
Clearing the MIL "before" an emissions test always worked for me. My now-sold car had a bad charcoal canister that needed to be replaced and always tripped the MIL. I would clear the MIL, drive for about 40-50 miles (the MIL usually trips around 80-100 miles after reset, depending on how I drive) to get the monitors back into "ready" state, and then drive to the emissions test location... never failed an inspection.
Clearing the MIL "before" an emissions test always worked for me. My now-sold car had a bad charcoal canister that needed to be replaced and always tripped the MIL. I would clear the MIL, drive for about 40-50 miles (the MIL usually trips around 80-100 miles after reset, depending on how I drive) to get the monitors back into "ready" state, and then drive to the emissions test location... never failed an inspection.
No reason you would. MIL isn't lit, and drive cycles were completed after the reset. The point being made is if the drive cycles aren't complete you won't pass.
On my 2005 truck, I had to jump the battery the other day, which.. Obviously, a dead battery removes the codes.
If I hook a solid tester up to it now, it shows the Misfire and Catalyst System tests are not complete.
If I actually had problems, "Pending" codes would show up as well.
And, of course, if they stick the probe up the tailpipe and actually measure emissions.. It would fail if something were out of whack.
All depends on what states do. some have no emissions testing.. Some only look to see if the MIL/CEL is lit up.. Some check whether the tests have completed on the computer, some actually test the gases coming out the tailpipe. Virginia is one that I know of that does the latter. I'd assume California as well, but.. Don't know that for sure.
A bad ECM, short in the power circuit to the ECM or bad ECM fuse can cause the Check Engine Light to come on without setting a code. These can be a ***** to figure out. It is a Chrysler product so.......
I was at a car dealer auction a couple of years ago and as a Chrysler 300 rolled up on the block, the auctioneer announce "The Check Engine Light is on." One of the older dealers standing in the lane bidding on cars yelled back at him "Show me a Chrysler without the Check Engine Light on!" Everybody laughed and shook their head and then the auction went on. lol
The auto parts places like Autozone, Advance, etc. usually have OBDII code readers in their loan a tool that you can borrow by placing a deposit. You can then go read codes and clear them yourself if you want. If it were me, I would do as has been suggested and buy one on Amazon. I use one of the bluetooth type that communicates with my android phone and I use the TorqueScan app. It works great and I have not found a car yet it would not work with.
Did the person who reads the codes do it right? Was the key in the "on" posiition? Did you try the "key dance" (off-on(not start) 3 times in a few seconds, then watch the odometer) method? It works on my van (same kind as yours).
The factory service manual will have situations listed such as this where no code can be read - and will also have complete troubleshooting instructions for tracking down the problem.
When all else fails, read the instructions! (Factory troubleshooting and repair instructions.)
Remove the negative battery cable and leave the headlights on for 30 mins. Then hook the cable back up and start the engine. If the light comes back on, take it to the dealership.
Do you mix in some cartwheels and headstands, too, because that's utterly pointless.
I can waste 30 mins by using my code scanner and figuring the issue out.
Anyway, OP, AutoZone scanners might be too basic to pull some codes.
I'd just clear it by removing the battery ground for 2 minutes. Then watch for it to come back on. Sometimes a code will throw and never come back, glitch.
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