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Unless a CPO car is certified by the manufacturer, the certification is pretty much worthless.
Since this car apparently is coming from a used car lot, I think that the CPO designation is something that the owner of the lot concocted on his own, and is essentially meaningless--albeit a good way to get unsuspecting/unsophisticated customers to pay more for the car.
You are right about the CPO vs non-manufacturer warranty.
It's not meaningless though. That would be selling something with no value. The stated power train warranty they gave, plus the agreement to fix the engine in the contract though should be enough to have the car fixed and not be a designated "as-is" sale. Also the fact that the car must have an implied warranty of merchantability. As others have stated, the CEL would cause the vehicle to not pass inspection. So far none of those obligations have been fulfilled on their part.
I payed around Kelly-Blue book value. So if I under or over payed could be debated. It will be a small margin either way. The warranty was included. So that was not an add on. I'm happy with the price I paid, but not with the service I'm getting.
How much did you actually pay? Your lawyer should probably tell them their liability in court will not only be a refund but also your cost and aggravation of dealing with their attitude, and your lawyer's fees and court costs. But it's a dilemma, because most lawyers are about equally sleazy as most used car dealers. You need a way to find an honest competent lawyer. Not by referral, but by honest reviews, recommendations based on experience dealing with the lawyer, etc. Keeping in mind that people are scared to give lawyers bad reviews, because they're afraid of getting sued for slander. You should also find out what state agencies take complaints against used car dealers, and if those agencies have a history of actually taking action in situations like yours. Accurate information is the key. Finding out as much as you can about everything. Including that car dealer's history of complaints and resolutions. The more information you have, the more likely you can find a good resolution to your problem.
How much did you actually pay? Your lawyer should probably tell them their liability in court will not only be a refund but also your cost and aggravation of dealing with their attitude, and your lawyer's fees and court costs. But it's a dilemma, because most lawyers are about equally sleazy as most used car dealers. You need a way to find an honest competent lawyer. Not by referral, but by honest reviews, recommendations based on experience dealing with the lawyer, etc. Keeping in mind that people are scared to give lawyers bad reviews, because they're afraid of getting sued for slander. You should also find out what state agencies take complaints against used car dealers, and if those agencies have a history of actually taking action in situations like yours. Accurate information is the key. Finding out as much as you can about everything. Including that car dealer's history of complaints and resolutions. The more information you have, the more likely you can find a good resolution to your problem.
It was $18,501 after all tax and title fees etc. In Georgia we must now pay all ad valorem taxes up front when buying a car.
I do have a few options for lawyers if it comes to that. My brother is a lawyer, but practices in Alabama. I'm sure he knows a trustworthy lawyer that he can refer me to. My workplace also has a law firm that is available to all the employees. I'm guessing it's at some kind of special discount since it's through work. I've never had to use a lawyer before, so I've never looked into the details for that. I will probably get in touch with my HR person tomorrow though to find out more info about that. Just to have all my ducks in a row.
Unfortunately most of the car reviews for the place were pretty good with a few bad ones in there but it's to be expected. My wife and I are now wondering though if they've padded some of the review sites. It's all conjecture on that point.
Time to threaten legal action as the seller has had more than enough time to get the car sorted, its starting to look like a scam and i'm sure a judge would agree.\
A lawyers letter saying you want your money back or legal action will ensue should get them moving on the issue.
Time is of the essence. The sooner you talk to a good honest lawyer, the more likely you will have a good outcome. The longer you wait, the more likely a lawyer would say you should have contacted the lawyer sooner. Talking to a lawyer does not commit you to taking legal action. It just helps you understand your options, while those options are still fresh and powerful.
You should ask Audi to give you the vehicle's history by the VIN. It may prove enlightening, especially if this problem has been an recurrent issue. The car in question is about the age where typical Audi problems with sensors start to show, regardless of mileage. The A6 is much better in this regard, especially the more recent models that are quite reliable, even with the 4-cylinder, but a 6-7-year-old Audi on a non-franchised lot with a "certified" sticker on it would definitely give pause. I would do whatever you can to unwind the deal, and would also consult with the DMV as they are responsible for dealer licensing, such that there might be a provision in Georgia law for this type of issue.
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All the world's a stage, and all the men and women merely players: they have their exits and their entrances; and one man in his time plays many parts, his acts being seven ages.
~William Shakespeare (As You Like It Act II, Scene VII)
If your paperwork says no refunds and sold as-is, then you are SOL. BTW, why did you buy a vehicle in the first place with a CEL on? If I saw the vehicle and it had the CEL on, I would have told them to fix the vehicle and THEN we can talk about me buying it.
I bought a vehicle (used) and the CEL light came on during the test drive. The salesman was mortified. He said he'd fix it. We went ahead with the deal, but waited until a fix was *confirmed*. That only delayed the deal like 1-2 days. The deal was "as-is," but I had a detailed history on the car too and nothing untoward was revealed in that.
Something related came up a couple days later, when I owned the car. I took it back immediately. They fixed it again: their first fix had broken something, and it was an honest mistake btw (bad plug, related to replacing a coil). I am somewhat mechanically inclined and read the ODBC II readouts and agreed; this particular issue was common with these cars. CEL light did not come back.
10K and several years later (this is a fun car, not a DD), it's fine. The dealer said "we stand behind our used sales!" and TTBOMK, they do. Frankly, employees of my company and other tech people in Seattle buy a LOT of cars from this dealer network on the Eastside, and they can't afford a "bad rep" on a somewhat-expensive used car model, or brand. They know that; my opinion (and others) hold them to a higher bar. We are tech dorks: bloggers, posters to C-D forums (grin), and enthusiast forums. A bad reputation gets around, here. Fast. To wit:
One of the other dealers, Eastside, definitely did (does?) have a bad rep, and I observed bad behavior in-person all the way back in 1999: A pal and I walked off the lot, after being ignored for about a half hour, meaning in that case $35K sale just walked off. My buddy, the buyer, went elsewhere next morning and bought another car. That was just...stupid...of the "bad dealer." I will never, ever, buy a car from them: right or wrong, neither will any of my friends.
I'd be looking to the state's website for the Attorney General's office and see what protections they offer regarding fraudulent sales. It's possible that in Georgia some other department handles such things but somebody does. You may find that the actually do "do refunds" because the law says they must. Knowledge is power.
That is a shame because I LOVE their styling, especially more recent ones
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