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One thing that happens, is that the battery posts, and the battery connections over time may corrode and turn a dull grey. That will kill the connection. This is very often the problem, and a lot of people buy new batteries when they are not needed.
At least once a year disconnect the battery, then take a battery cleaner which is a little thing with wire brushes you push down on the post and twist to remove the corrosion. Then clean the battery clamps with the wire brush that is on the other end of the cleaner. The alternative is take a sharp knife and scrape the post all around, and then do the same on the inside of the clamps. I once owned a service station right after high school my father bought me, and I found an awful lot of batteries had this problem. We used to clean the posts and clamps when we serviced a vehicle for our customers.
I have had neighbors that cars would not start, and cleaning their posts and clamps let the cars immediately start. Just because you do not see corrosion on a battery does not mean their is none. Our pickup would not start the other morning, and nothing showed wrong. I cleaned the clamps and posts, and it started immediately.
Just something to try, before you run out and buy a battery.
That is very true,,cleaning the battery post connections. I've had that happen, once on my way to buy a new battery, pulled car into firehouse instead, cleaned off both posts and terminals and did not need a battery. If you have a regular DMM digital multimeter you can easily test that too.
Not necessarily. A battery can drop a little from things that are causing a draw, like the memory in your radio and other electronic gadgets. My Caddy was draining the battery if I didn't drive the car for 4 or 5 days. We kept pulling out fuses until the test light we installed went out, and we found that there is a cell phone connection on my car and it was searching for a signal, and drinking some juice in the process.
That slight drop you mentioned is nothing, but I would go to Autozone or Advance Auto and have them put it on their tester. It is a free test and will tell you the health of the battery and all the other compononts.
The battery in my previous car lasted 8+ years (I traded it in, so perhaps more even), so this whole school of thought is totally new to me.
By the way, Consumer Reports says EverStart is the most reliable battery brand overall, despite their low cost, but they don't rate size 51R (Honda CRV) specifically.
Another thing: I know it's weird, but my battery doesn't have the hold-down thingies. I don't know how this car could have passed smog or the dealer's inspection without them (I also had a pre-purchase inspection done with no issues raised). Perhaps they fell off somehow?
Anyways, do they also have to be 51R, or are they one-size-fits-all?
The battery in my truck is 11 years old. Sears DieHard and still tests good. I have recharged it several times but I have always kept it in good working order.
If you can't keep a close eye on it I'd replace it and I don't think my situation is universal. I plan on replacing mine sometime this year. 11 years is really pushing it.
The Everstart from Walmart is not a bad battery at all for the money. I have had pretty good luck with them and when one failed they stood behind it. However, they do put you through some hoops these days, especially if you get a gung ho clerk. They kept my last one over night and put it on the charger because I told them it wouldn't hold a charge. The next day they called and said I was right, and I said "I told you so !"
But overall they have been very good about it. They also have a way to scan some bar code on the top to tell if you were the original purchaser. They scanned it and then asked for my Drivers License. They have several grades of batteries, and I always buy the one with several years warranty on it.
Don
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