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It looks to me like that tensioner is integral to the motor mount, requiring it's complete replacement. Which might also require removing a few other things. Heres a rundown on the whole job....
Now... I consider this next step to be the hardest part of the whole operation. If you can get past this, you can easily accomplish the rest of the task. See the big aluminum plate attached to the engine? That is the engine mount plate and it must be removed, however you will probably have noticed that only one of the bolts that hold it has enough clearance to even get a wrench on it. According to AlldataDIY, the engine must be raised "slightly" in order to acquire sufficient clearance to remove the bolts. By the time you have raised the engine up enough remove the bolts you will be quite scared that you are going to break something by having the engine at that angle. Get used to it though, because by the time you are done you will have to raise and lower the engine many times in order to create the clearance you need for various jobs.
Once you have removed the three bolts that secure the mount plate, you have to then get it out of the confined space it is in... another highly amusing proposition. I nearly broke the timing belt cover getting it out, but I finally got it loose.
Then you have to install the new one. 3hrs is sounding pretty reasonable to me, and is probably book time.
Maybe ask your mechanic about cheaper motor support plate options. Also consider that your shop might not to risk it's reputation using less than factory quality parts. Their call. Get a couple estimates from other shops, always a prudent idea.
And be careful about whose advice you take on forums... including me. I would guess more than one of the above responses were thinking this job was 2 bolts and done, 30 minutes. Don't discredit your mechanic because someone you don't know who didn't know what they were talking about spouted off in an internet forum.
Several years ago I moved to Tampa Florida, not knowing anybody.
I had a car with a few years and a lot of miles on it, and needed some work.
I went to my local auto parts store to price what I needed, to get an idea of what the repair would cost.
While I was there, I was talking to the store's manager, and asked if he knew a good local, honest 'shade tree' mechanic.
About the time he started telling me a guys name, he walked in the door.
He was, I say respectfully, the ugliest guy I've ever met. He'd been rode hard and put up wet. All six of his teeth were about gone... He was a site - again, I say very respectfully...
I introduced myself to him, told him what I needed and the next thing you know I'm buying those parts, putting them in my trunk, and following him back to his house where he put them in (Motor mounts for a '99 Chrysler Sebring Convertible).
I don't remember what he charged me, but the cost of the parts were more than the labor.
Vince did an excellent job and my car was back to normal in no time, and I was very happy with the price.
From that point on, every time I needed any work done on my car, he'd get my business, and his service and price were far beyond making me happy...
So, do as I did, check with your local parts supply store and ask for a good shade tree mechanic, and give them a try.
I know not everyone will be that lucky, but it's worth a shot...
As for your quote: as others have said, your 'mechanic' is trying to empty your wallet... into his.
I've done a few of these, it takes 2-3 hours because a lot of components have to be removed. Someone who has done many of them can probably do it in less than 2 hours. The tensioner assembly is integrated with a large casting. It's not your typical tensioner/idler swap. However, $500 is simply too much for the part. That's probably the cost of a dealer part with markup. Using an OE part is pointless on a 14 year old car. A fair price with a decent markup is more like $200.
Reminds me of the time when I took my Sunfire to one of the garages around here and they told me I needed a new fuel pump. To the tune of $580. Told em unless it was diamond encrusted gold they could stuff it, went else where and had one put in for half that.
OP, here's the belt setup showing the tensioner. Ditch your mechanic, he's taking advantage. Complete 'systems' of operation rarely need replacing, only individual parts do.
OP, here's the belt setup showing the tensioner. Ditch your mechanic, he's taking advantage. Complete 'systems' of operation rarely need replacing, only individual parts do.
The spring loaded idler arm is not serviceable. Your picture does not show everything that needs to be replaced if the idler spring is broken or worn out.
OP, here's the belt setup showing the tensioner. Ditch your mechanic, he's taking advantage. Complete 'systems' of operation rarely need replacing, only individual parts do.
You did just enough research to give bad advice. Do you know whats required to get to the bolt that holds that pulley on? Do you also realize the pulley isn't the problem, it's the spring?
People are so willing to offer advice when they don't know what they're talking about.
You did just enough research to give bad advice. Do you know whats required to get to the bolt that holds that pulley on? Do you also realize the pulley isn't the problem, it's the spring?
People are so willing to offer advice when they don't know what they're talking about.
Don't know what it takes to get to these parts.....but I've seen two dollar parts that you could swear they built the car around
You did just enough research to give bad advice. Do you know whats required to get to the bolt that holds that pulley on? Do you also realize the pulley isn't the problem, it's the spring?
People are so willing to offer advice when they don't know what they're talking about.
My thoughts exactly.
Don in Austin
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