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[quote=alpha_1976;40040406]No rotors are not that thin on Sonata.
sorry, hadn't looked at 2012 Sonata rotors. They appear to have an inner and outter surface with cooling fins between. My 2008 Sonata didn't it was a single inner and outter surface that was no more than 1/2" (13MM)
Corvettes go through brake pads (and rotors if left unchanged for too long) pretty fast. Not sure about Camaros, but I'd assume it's similar. I've seen them go bad at 30k.
Never heard of this. Former corvette owner, and noone ever complained about this or mentioned it. Former roommate of mine had a lot more than 30K on his corvette's rotors, and pads, as well. My WS.6 Trans Am (2001) went 80k miles before I turned the rotors and replaced the pads. Sold it at 150K miles with no further work.
No, I do not "ride" my brakes. I use my right foot to brake, not that I see why that matters.
Before moving to this area, my commute to/from work was mostly highway driving, Since moving here this past April, I would say I am doing more city driving than I previously did. But again, I don't jam on the brakes from high speeds; I come to gradual stops and sometimes even use the engine to help slow the car down before braking, especially if I'm going down a hill.
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha_1976
OP - I would not trust pepboys and see a real mechanic. It's is very rare that you need new rotors at 33K. Also why did you ask them to check brakes in first place? Any problem you notice with them? When you say "little life" means what? Like 2mm?
I had the brakes checked at a Meineke shop this past March when I was still living in NY because I noticed that the brake fluid level had gone down some in the reservoir (still within the acceptable level). That was the only reason I had the brakes checked. They were not squealing and there was no pulsating when coming to a stop, and there still isn't now. Perhaps a slight grinding from the front wheels now when coming to a stop.
The guy at the Meineke shop said I still had a few thousand (3-4K) miles left on the pads, but recommended replacing the rotors also as he felt there would not be enough material left on them if he cut them (again, they have never been resurfaced before). I don't remember if he gave me an exact measurement of the pad thickness at that time.
Remember, I have been averaging less than 1000 miles per month of driving.
Quote:
Originally Posted by louie0406
Its possible. Do you do lots of inner city stop and go driving? Are the brakes grinding when you come to a stop? Do you feel pulsating when coming to a stop from a high rate of speed? If so then you can very well need a brake job whether it be new or refaced rotors and/or new pads.
I think I answered these questions above ^^
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Bear
To recap:
Do NOT take your car to Pep Boys. It is cheap, economical service...you get what you pay for.
DO take your car to the dealer from whence it came. They will give you the "correct" price (and they are becoming more and more completive with the bargain places too!). IF you have an independent mechanic that you trust, you can go to them as an alternative.
33,000 miles is the lower end of the replacement cycle, but we don't know your driving habits. It certainly is not unheard of to have to replace them at that mileage. Have you replaced the original tires?
I called Southern States Hyundai this morning (they are the closest Hyundai dealer to me) to ask for a quote on replacing the front pads and rotors, including parts and labor. The girl who answered my call said that at my mileage, they would turn the rotors, not replace them. I believe she said they don't replace the rotors until after 100K miles, which I am skeptical about. Anyway, to just replace the front pads and turn the rotors would cost $230 at this dealer. That sounds like a lot to me if they're not including new rotors.
Yes, I have in fact replaced the original tires before this past winter. The OEM tires (some model of Kumho Solus tires) that came on this car were the worst tires I've ever owned in terms of tread life. There were H rated tires and I couldn't even get 30K miles out of them -- and by the way, I rotated them religiously according to Hyundai's suggested schedule (every 7500 miles). They weren't out of alignment as they weren't worn on the sides and there was no cupping on them either. The tread had just worn down to the point where they needed to be replaced. I wasn't doing burnouts with them, either. This is a front wheel drive family sedan we're talking about.
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If my rotors were so warped that they could not be resurfaced, I would be feeling a pulsation in the pedal when I am braking, and I am not. The brakes are working very smoothly.
Normally at that mileage rotors needing replacing are because they are warped. Ford rotors were often replaced for this by maintenance on our work vehicles compared to GM and Chryslers. Compared to many tho OEM were cheap parts cost.
I would suspect that your city driving in Overdrive
Once you let off the gas the car continues to roll and being
in O/D it will not let the transmission brake the vehicle so
your on the binders more then you think
I'd also agree that many of today vehicles have what I'd call
"Thin" rotors, and most are out of specs to be turned
Two things I never ever take a short cut on are Brakes & Tires
I took my car to have the front brakes checked this morning. I had the brakes inspected a couple months ago, and there was still a little life left in them at the time. My car only has 33K miles on it, and has never had brake service yet so still has all the OEM parts on it. The place I took it to this morning told me that not only do I need to replace the front brake pads, but I also need to replace the front AND rear rotors too! Why would I need to replace the rotors when they have never previously been resurfaced? I've had several cars in my life and I can't think of one car where I wouldn't be able to get at least one resurfacing of the rotors done before they needed to be replaced. Plus, we all know that the front brakes carry most of the load in stopping the car, especially on a front wheel drive car. How could the rear rotors be bad already when I haven't even replaced the front pads or rotors yet?
BTW, I do not have a performance car and I am not aggressive on the brakes.
I'm seeing that more and more OEM rotors are just pretty much junk anymore.
I'd say replace them with something aftermarket of higher quality. The cryo treated sport drilled rotors from Stop Tech are a really nice upgrade from stock that won't kill your wallet.
I'm seeing that more and more OEM rotors are just pretty much junk anymore.
I'd say replace them with something aftermarket of higher quality. The cryo treated sport drilled rotors from Stop Tech are a really nice upgrade from stock that won't kill your wallet.
I am not a fan of slotted or drilled. All they will do is wear your pads out faster and create more brake dust. Originally, they helped heat up race compound pads a bit faster, and ALLEGEDLY, help evacuate water/dust on the rotor's surface. Something that oddly never seemed a problem with the Vipers and other cars known for bulletproof braking, but...times change, and people want bling. I've owned both slotted and drilled rotors on cars before. Some OEM, some aftermarket. Dust and pad wear were the only things they did.
If this was true then majority of cheap cars will have this problem and it'll become a norm to replace rotors at 30K. But that is not the case. If you do not have anything constructive to say just ignore the thread - it's that easy.
...
The newer economy cars use budget rotors which depending on driving conditions, road, temperature are borderline acceptable.
My advice is to replace the cheap OEM rotors and tires with better quality parts, long term it will cost you less and these are part of car safety.
I am not a fan of slotted or drilled. All they will do is wear your pads out faster and create more brake dust. Originally, they helped heat up race compound pads a bit faster, and ALLEGEDLY, help evacuate water/dust on the rotor's surface. Something that oddly never seemed a problem with the Vipers and other cars known for bulletproof braking, but...times change, and people want bling. I've owned both slotted and drilled rotors on cars before. Some OEM, some aftermarket. Dust and pad wear were the only things they did.
Slotted are worse for pad wear for sure, that's why I recommend drilled only. Drilled rotors do keep rotor temps down which makes them very resistant to warping. They also perform a bit better in wet conditions I've found. Ceramic pads cut down on dust a lot, they don't have as much "bite" as semi-metallic, but it's hardly noticeable under most circumstances.
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