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Sears did the tune-up and I also use Mavis. Had nothing to do with the tune-up. The car was driving fine after that and had been until the shaking started a few months ago. We've been trying to figure out why ever since. At least 5 different mechanics looked at the problem and can't seem to figure it out.
A solution that worked on a similar problem. A ten year old Nissan v6 truck started shaking like yours. I do my own maintenance so I changed the plugs and COPS (coil on plugs). When that pain in the rear job was done it still shook. Googling things I learned about a thing called a MAF sensor and cleaned mine with an electronics spray cleaner. While things were apart I also cleaned the Throttle Body intake.
One of those two things cured the shakes. Spray cleaner cost less than ten bucks and the truck runs great again. Give it a try and hope for the best.
If I were to throw a guess out that after every thing else I'd say a collapsed hydrolic lifter .
I would do a leak down test on all cylinders ( not compression test).
A leak down measures the cylinder integrity locked in the compression stroke. you can observe where air is leaking from the cylinder . 20% is acceptable, 30% is worn, 40% or more is very serious. Also where the air leaks from is exposed , from the intake =intake valve from the exhaust =the exhaust valve from the crank case (escaping from any of the crank case vents valve covers oil fill =rings , bubbling radiator= the head gasket.
This is what I did on boats for a living. 2 and 4 stroke, in board out board V and stern drive gas and diesel .
Something fuel injected might cause shaking but not anything normally aspirated ,all cylinders share the same mix.
A collapsed lifter can remedy it's self but it's unusual. sometimes additives work ,but most of the time they do not.
If it is determined that it is not electrical, than this would be my recomendation.
If it is fuel injected, each cylinder injector line should be freed to observe and even measure pressure. injectors should be examined .
No suggestions on mechanics, but you need to find a good independent mechanic, maybe an older one like the car, and quit using Sears.
Yeah, Sears is one of the last places I'd think of going for anything more complicated than changing a tire.
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