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No need to bleed the brakes when you're just doing the pads / rotors.
Just check the fluid level to make sure that retracting the piston didn't cause an overfill.
absolutely no "need" to bleed the brakes when just doing the pads/rotors.
but the OP's car is a 2004 model. What do you think the probability is that the car has never had the brake fluid replaced in that time?
keep in mind this is a fairly low mileage vehicle. 75,000 miles in 12 years since new is only 6,xxx miles per year. Likely that the OP doesn't get too many service opportunities with this car beyond engine oil changes and tires ....
as you know, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air through the flex hoses of the system. that moisture degrades the braking performance of the car and can also be the source of corrosion in the brake components. since it's cheap and easy to flush and refill as preventative maintenance, it's worth considering if the OP is planning on keeping the car for awhile. Or not, it's their choice.
Honda suggested maintenance schedules the brake fluid replacement in a much shorter time interval than this car has been in service.
OP,
even for a basic brake job you need set of tools and jack stand.
If you have NO experience, some parts of that job are easy to mess up and even damage something. Suddenly, you end up with stranded vehicle and need to special order say caliper pin from dealer, if you stripped the threads.
Also you need to grease pads and pads guides.
More importantly, WHY is it that you have rear brakes worn out way ahead of front ones? Normally, it's the other way around.
No, if you rotor has no signs of wear and looks nice and smooth, don't touch it.
Changing brake fluid is another animal entirely. I'd let my indy tackle that one.
I agree. I've tried those "one man" kits in the past but the tubes never attached to the caliper bleeders right. This allowed air to get in the system and basically defeated the purpose of doing the flush in the first place. You also have to make sure to not depress the brake pedal too much during the process or the seals in the master cylinder can blow out -- a $$$ repair. I'll change any other fluid on my car but always have my indy deal with brake flushes. Not to mention, brake fluid is nasty stuff that is absorbed through the skin and damages car paint if spilled.
depends on the vehicle... many calipers require compression WHILE turning (to retract).
Hmm, I've never heard of that. I would think this would make calipers more likely to stick than they already do. What years, makes, and models have this?
Are you saying that the piston(s) aren't smooth-sided, but have twisted grooves (like rifling) in them with corresponding protrusions in the caliper bore, or vice-versa?
absolutely no "need" to bleed the brakes when just doing the pads/rotors.
but the OP's car is a 2004 model. What do you think the probability is that the car has never had the brake fluid replaced in that time?
keep in mind this is a fairly low mileage vehicle. 75,000 miles in 12 years since new is only 6,xxx miles per year. Likely that the OP doesn't get too many service opportunities with this car beyond engine oil changes and tires ....
as you know, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air through the flex hoses of the system. that moisture degrades the braking performance of the car and can also be the source of corrosion in the brake components. since it's cheap and easy to flush and refill as preventative maintenance, it's worth considering if the OP is planning on keeping the car for awhile. Or not, it's their choice.
Honda suggested maintenance schedules the brake fluid replacement in a much shorter time interval than this car has been in service.
Actually it is my wife's car and we have performed all the scheduled maintenance as prescribed, she insists on it.
Where I work, the dealership charge $89 for brake pad change and rotor turned . But this wont work if your rotor is under minimum specs. You would have to changed the rotor
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