Bleeding brakes after installing new pads and rotor. (2013, fuel, ABS)
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Today I replaced the pads and rotors on a 2013 explorer. When I pushed the Pistons in I did open the bleeders. I went for a test ride and the pedal was super soft, Like almost to the floor. I'm guessing I need to bleed the brakes. I pretty sure I need to bleed them but what do you guys think.?
Today I replaced the pads and rotors on a 2013 explorer. When I pushed the Pistons in I did open the bleeders. I went for a test ride and the pedal was super soft, Like almost to the floor. I'm guessing I need to bleed the brakes. I pretty sure I need to bleed them but what do you guys think.?
Yes if you opened the bleeders. FYI you don't need to open them to do your brakes. Just remove the cap on the master cylinder to relieve the hydraulic pressure on the pistons while you are attempting to push them in.
Too late now I know, but next time...
Careful not to pump too much on the pedal with low fluid, as you'll suck even more air into the lines making it even more of a PITA to bleed them.
( my dad is a car nut and growing up I was his .. Get me this, get me that, hold this, pump the pedal and hold it... Girl)
Last edited by Sydney123; 09-06-2015 at 06:03 PM..
Bleeding is easy. Pressurize the system by having someone pump the brake pedal and on the count of 1-2-3 have them go about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down as you open the line. Close off the line and then they can release the brake after a sec or two. Start at the rear right, then rear left, front right, then front left last. Bleed each line until you see new fluid flowing (or if the fluid is fairly new, until you stop seeing bubbles).
You do not have a thing called brake accumulator, do you? Please, make SURE you have a simple hydraulic brake system, not a new fancy computerized brake by wire one. As if you do have accumulator, you can NOT bleed the brakes conventional way.
Bleeding is easy. Pressurize the system by having someone pump the brake pedal and on the count of 1-2-3 have them go about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down as you open the line. Close off the line and then they can release the brake after a sec or two. Start at the rear right, then rear left, front right, then front left last. Bleed each line until you see new fluid flowing (or if the fluid is fairly new, until you stop seeing bubbles).
It's super easy.
I just bled the brakes on my F250 Friday using a similar method.
I actually used a brake bleeder vacuum pump since I was by myself but basically the way I do it:
Suck out all the old brake fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster. Refill with fresh fluid.
Make sure your brake fluid reservoir is full. You'll need to re-check it often to make sure it remains topped off.
Have someone press the pedal down. Then you crack the bleeder valve. As soon as fluid starts coming out close the bleeder and have them release the pedal. Do this a few times, and then top off your fluid again. Repeat until you get a steady stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder with no air pockets.
As to the order you bleed in... that's up for debate. Starting at the very rear forces all the old dirty fluid through the entire system. If you start with the caliper closest to the reservoir, you get clean fluid through that caliper first and helps reduce the amount of old fluid that goes through the entire system. I typically do Driver front, passenger rear, passenger front, driver rear but whatever floats your boat.
Today I replaced the pads and rotors on a 2013 explorer. When I pushed the Pistons in I did open the bleeders. I went for a test ride and the pedal was super soft, Like almost to the floor. I'm guessing I need to bleed the brakes. I pretty sure I need to bleed them but what do you guys think.?
Wow, you most likely introduced a lot of air into your brake system. I hate to say this.... but you really created a dangerous situation with your brakes. Your action of opening the bleeders on each corner tells me that you have very little working knowledge of a critical system in your car. The fact that you didn't check the brakes before you even put it in drive speaks to my statement. You want to make sure you have a firm pedal after any brake work before you take your car onto the street. Did you check the fluid level in the reservoir?
My advice would be to either contact a friend that knows how to do this or call a tow truck and have a shop do the bleeding.
There might be so much air in your system now that a simple bleeding using the brake pedal / master cylinder to move the fluid might not be enough. You might need a vacuum pump to make it easier or look into a motive flow bleeder.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nlambert
Suck out all the old brake fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster. Refill with fresh fluid.
Do no suck the reservoir dry. This will introduce air into the system and create more work for yourself.
Take out maybe 3/4 of the fluid making sure the outlet of the reservoir still has some fluid in it. Then refill with fresh fluid. Then start the bleeding / flushing process.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nlambert
As to the order you bleed in... that's up for debate.
Follow the factory service manual for the car. There is no debate there. Just follow the directions.
Do no suck the reservoir dry. This will introduce air into the system and create more work for yourself.
You will not remove 100% of the fluid with this method. Fluid will still be in the lines and adding in fresh fluid will keep air from being introduced into the system. This is how many shops perform the "flush" and is the way I have been doing it for 15 years with no ill effect. If you were able to completely drain it bone dry it is definitely a possibility but there will be enough fluid left in the bottom of the reservoir to avoid the issue. The goal is to introduce as much clean fluid to the reservoir as possible.
You will not remove 100% of the fluid with this method. Fluid will still be in the lines and adding in fresh fluid will keep air from being introduced into the system. This is how many shops perform the "flush" and is the way I have been doing it for 15 years with no ill effect. If you were able to completely drain it bone dry it is definitely a possibility but there will be enough fluid left in the bottom of the reservoir to avoid the issue. The goal is to introduce as much clean fluid to the reservoir as possible.
My advice is to make sure that you keep the inlet to the MC from getting air in it.
Being a 2013 model with ABS you will need to take it to a shop with a scan tool that will cycle the ABS pump during the brake bleeding procedure. Gone are the days of bleeding your own brakes without specialized equipment (unless you have an old car). I do a lot of my own work (last BIG project was a fuel pump and 4 new fuel injectors in a '04 Ford Excursion 6.0 diesel) but anything with ABS gets the brakes bled at the shop. Have it towed to the shop and let them bleed the brakes is the safest bet.
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