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When you bring your own parts to places you don't get a warranty on the work. So you may save upfront but if any of those parts fail you have to pay to remove and replace them at a shop unless you can do it yourself.
It's all business...you want to take money out of the business by getting your own parts so they take away the warranty.
It's up to you if you want to take that risk.
Also the price seems fair to me. People don't mention that the brakes have to be bleed also after replacing calipers...more labor.
NONE of the work that needs to be done requires the amount of labor the shop is charging. They don't charge more because they warranty their labor. They charge more either because a) they have more overhead or b) they are gouging. That's it.
These are the most basic jobs a shop can do next to swapping out a belt or changing the oil. Businesses that will not honor a warranty when you don't buy their parts typically won't install the parts at all. And as for a part warranty, it's the same regardless of who buys it. You might lose out on labor IF the parts fail, but if the OP buys quality parts up front and the installer puts them on correctly, it's usually a mute point.
Brake bleeding is quick. If the calipers don't need to be replaced (and if you're still driving the car chances are they don't) you don't need to bleed the brakes. Pads and rotors don't require touching the brake bleeder. The OP was getting conned. In the worst way.
Here's a high level overview of what is requires to change out your pads and rotors.
Pop the lid off the brake fluid reservoir, jack up the car, secure on stands, and remove the wheel.
Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the vehicle and swing the entire bracket and caliper out of the way. Secure it to the coil spring with a clothes hanger or some other strong wire to make sure it does not hang by the brake line. Remove the screw that holds the rotor to the hub. Remove the rotor and remove the brake pads from the caliper. Clean the oil off the new rotor and install back on the car. Put some anti-seize on the screw holding the rotor and re-install. Take a "C" clamp and slowly compress the piston in the caliper back into the caliper until flush. Install your new pads and slide the caliper assembly back over the rotor. Resecure the two caliper bracket bolts. Re-install the wheel and lower the car. Rinse and repeat. Your final step is to check your brake fluid level at the reservoir and re-install the reservoir cap. Then go test drive the car.
It really is that simple. If your calipers are still activating your brakes, a visual inspection doesn't show you any cracks on the piston, and are not leaking you do not need new ones.
i found a mechanic that will do the work with my own parts - he quoted me $147/ea. (front and back) to install pads and rotors and $30/ea. tires.
I would go with OEM pads, and Centric rotors. This is the combo I run on my cars.
I'm not a fan of Akebono pads. I found that they chewed the crap out of my rotors to the point where turning them wasn't an option when the pads were done. I swapped to OEM pads and had less damage to my rotors.
Of course, OEM pads differe from model to model. I get mine off Ebay from dealer wholesalers.
I would go with OEM pads, and Centric rotors. This is the combo I run on my cars.
I'm not a fan of Akebono pads. I found that they chewed the crap out of my rotors to the point where turning them wasn't an option when the pads were done. I swapped to OEM pads and had less damage to my rotors.
Of course, OEM pads differe from model to model. I get mine off Ebay from dealer wholesalers.
OEM pads are on their way as are the Centric rotors.
If you live in Westchester, go to Master Mechanix on Central Ave Yonkers he may not be the cheapest but he is honest and he will give you a fair deal (914 963-4744).
If you live in Westchester, go to Master Mechanix on Central Ave Yonkers he may not be the cheapest but he is honest and he will give you a fair deal (914 963-4744).
thanks. i just called them for a quote. if they can beat the $300 (just for putting on the brakes and rotors) the original mechanic gave me i'll go there.
thanks. i just called them for a quote. if they can beat the $300 (just for putting on the brakes and rotors) the original mechanic gave me i'll go there.
The mechanic I go to charges me $40 per wheel to install pads and rotors. He's over in Queens by City Field though. If I were you I'd pay no more than $200 for that job. Its about an hour and a half job. Even at $100/hr labor rate which is about standard in NY, it should run you $150.
The mechanic I go to charges me $40 per wheel to install pads and rotors. He's over in Queens by City Field though. If I were you I'd pay no more than $200 for that job.
sounds much more fair to me. watching the youtube tutorials i can't fathom it takes anywhere near 3 hours for a seasoned professional to do this job.
Except for the alignment, I'm glad I can do all those things myself in my garage. Youtube is the greatest thing for DIY cheap bastards like myself.
I recently failed NYS inspection on one of my older cars because the shop was trying to extort $600 from me to replace rear drums and do a parking break adjustment. Replaced drums and shoes myself for about $60 in parts. Adjusting the parking brake was free. Passed inspection at a quick lube place.
I wish instead of going to med school, I opened up an autoshop instead. Its license to print money since the average person knows nothing about cars.
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