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Acura/Honda has SH-AWD which has torque vectoring which splits power left to right and front and back.
Acura has SH-AWD on some models, but Honda does not have SH-AWD. Even the RDX went to the CR-V's Honda-based AWD system, that only engages the rear wheels when there is spin, not SH-AWD that it had in the first generation, for example. The TLX, MDX, and RLX have the SH-AWD system.
Subaru provides a good AWD system at a reasonable price, which is the strength of the vehicle, since tech and interior features lag behind Audi, even if price does not, for a similar system. I've also had success in winter with Haldex-based systems in Volvos and the Audi A3, Audi's Quattro, Mercedes 4-Matic, and X-Drive BMWs.
Subaru offers similar performance at a lower cost, and appeals to an affluent consumer base that tends to identify as practical and outdoorsy, not looking to be cosseted in exotic woods and plush surroundings, rather a more basic and rugged vehicle. However, when you don't need the winter performance, and factor that out of the equation, Subaru appointments tend to be average or below for the class. Bluetooth was an issue in terms of introduction, and pairing phones, so terrible that I know someone who got rid of an Outback for an Allroad and never looked back. Performance can be lackluster, as well, especially with the 4-cylinder models. And, these issues become more apparent when the AWD is not the sole reason for buying the car.
I honestly do not think it would be missed after an adjustment to the new car, if it's not necessary for the winter. You can get another AWD, RWD, or FWD, unless you like the practicality that Subaru offers, in which case, I'd buy another, provided there's a good dealer and service network in the new location.
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Have an Outback in the family stable good car, GREAT in snow but it's a little 'awkward' sometimes in dry conditions with the symmetrical AWD, similar to a 4x4 hi mode.
Personally, if I didn't need 4-wheel capabilities I'd go RWD.
Inferior AWD is passive. Subaru AWD has an active power split unlike what you described. So I suggest you research the various AWD systems available and why other AWD systems are inferior or better. Many models like the Legacy with has torque sensing planetary center diff also found in Audis they call it Torsen AWD.
Acura/Honda has SH-AWD which has torque vectoring which splits power left to right and front and back.
Nothing in the FWD world has this much technology other than electronic limited slip diff which only helps cure some of the torque and understeering but doesn't help put more power down on the road. Which is why FWD can never be in a 300HP+ car and be fun.
Perhaps you misunderstood? I was referring to FWD vehicles, and AWD vehicles where the rear wheels come into play as needed. My point was to tell that these two drive systems are the most widely used in the Northernmost regions of the US. Also, you can include the 4WD drive systems used in a lot of trucks, where the front wheels come into play when needed.
It does not matter which drive system is better or not, since there are places where RWD may be more "important" with drivers than all other drive systems. Also, it makes no difference if the vehicle has a 500 HP motor or just 95. All depends on what the person wants from a vehicle. For example, I am perfectly happy driving a FWD Toyota Corolla that has a very small 4-cylinder motor. I drive it around 50 miles each day on the sleekest ice of the interior of Alaska. During the summer I drive a very old 1988 GMC Sierra 4x4 on RWD, and I just don't have use for other drive systems since I don't need them. A FWD vehicle with a set of Blizzaks is all I need, not a Subaru, nor an Audi, nor a Mitsubishi Evo.
FWD automobiles that can put a lot of power on the road (below). All depends on the motor; for example, the 2010 Rav4 V6 4WD my wife drives, can put a lot more power on the road than a 2009 Forester (the one I drove). From a standstill pressing the gas pedal of the Rav4 engages the rear wheels, and the 270HP motor leaves the 170HP Forester in the dust. That said, when driving on ice what you want the least is power to the wheels.
2016 Lincoln MKX, 335HP
Ford Edge, 315HP
Accura RLX, 310HP
My "favorite" is the Honda Real Time AWD. It not only brings the rear wheels into play when the fronts start to slip (which can be a tad late-traction wise), but it disengages at 25 MPH, thus denying you of the improved handling and safety of AWD at speeds above 25MPH.
That is frightening and sounds like a liability waiting to be litigated.
My "favorite" is the Honda Real Time AWD. It not only brings the rear wheels into play when the fronts start to slip (which can be a tad late-traction wise), but it disengages at 25 MPH, thus denying you of the improved handling and safety of AWD at speeds above 25MPH.
We once rented a Saturn Vue during a Maine ski/snow vacation and I perused the owner's manual and noted that "the AWD system is temporary and will overheat and shut off if engaged for more than a few seconds continuously"?!
That sure didn't inspire a lot of confidence, it barely got us out of driveways and parking lots while we had it and the overall driving feel was exactly like a FWD only vehicle. Nothing like our two Subarus.
We live in anything but snow country (although we drive our Subies there) and I can completely notice the difference in handling and traction on dry and wet roads from a FWD car, I don't think I would ever go back. We have two different AWD systems, a default 50/50 torque split with limited slip differential on the WRX and a rear wheel drive biased automatic system on the Tribeca, so, different from some of the newer systems on the CVT based Outbacks so I'm not sure if the handling is as noticeable.
That's not true about the Honda AWD. The ability to send up to 70% of power to the rears is always active. In some models there is just an ability to electronically lock the diff in a 50/50 state. And that is what is automatically disabled above 25mph.
We once rented a Saturn Vue during a Maine ski/snow vacation and I perused the owner's manual and noted that "the AWD system is temporary and will overheat and shut off if engaged for more than a few seconds continuously"?!
That sure didn't inspire a lot of confidence, it barely got us out of driveways and parking lots while we had it and the overall driving feel was exactly like a FWD only vehicle. Nothing like our two Subarus.
We live in anything but snow country (although we drive our Subies there) and I can completely notice the difference in handling and traction on dry and wet roads from a FWD car, I don't think I would ever go back. We have two different AWD systems, a default 50/50 torque split with limited slip differential on the WRX and a rear wheel drive biased automatic system on the Tribeca, so, different from some of the newer systems on the CVT based Outbacks so I'm not sure if the handling is as noticeable.
Such drive systems disengage the real wheels automatically above 25MPH. For example, if the 2010 Toyota Rav4 V6 is parked in very deep snow, or you are driving it on a road with deep snow:
a. When stopped, press the 4x4 button on the dash, and the drive system switches from FWD with assist 4WD to 4WD (locks all the wheels). So now the car allows you to drive with all the wheels locked under 25MPH. When the speed reaches perhaps 26MPH, the 4x4 automatically unlocks the 4 wheels and goes into normal 4WD (the front wheels are engaged, and the real wheels engage when needed. If you just want to pull a boat-loaded trailer from the water, press the 4x4 button in the same manner. To pull the same loaded trailer form the water when driving a 2009 Forester, disengage the traction/stability control, and the result will be exactly the same.
b. Most AWD systems in the world are designed so that the rear wheels engage when needed. Even some very old Mercedes RWD automobiles allowed for the front wheels to engage as needed, and are numerous 4WD trucks. But having the front wheels driving the front where the engine is mounted, instead of RWD, provides excellent traction on ice and snow.
The main difference relating to traction is made by the tires. I drive a FWD 2012 Corolla about 50 miles each day, on the sleekest of ice I can think so, on Blizzak tires. I have also been driving on ice in the interior of Alaska for many years. I have owned a late Subaru Forester, an older Civic that had not traction/stability control, a Suzuki Sidekick 4x4, and a couple a 4x4 trucks (sometimes I drive my wife's 2010 Rav4 V6). All I can tell you is that a newer FWD vehicle with the proper tires does an outstanding job on ice. The rest pertains to driver's experience.
And yes, AWD and the rest gives you a superior sense of security when driving on ice than a FWD automobile. But when it comes to driving on ice, driver's experience is of upmost importance. Over here the highway sign may read 55 MPH in some areas, but if I skid off the road the trooper is not going to care how fast I was driving, be it 25MPH or 85. About the time the tow-truck is pulling my car out of the snow bank, or the ditch, the trooper is writing a ticked that says "driving too fast for conditions."
Last edited by RayinAK; 02-22-2016 at 09:42 PM..
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