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I'm currently looking to get a used Toyota Corolla and have the price capped at $10,000. I'm figuring something around the $8,000-$10,000 mark should allow me to a have a car that would last for a while and run decently. I'm mainly asking in relation to year and mileage. Searching on sites like cars.com there seems to be a wide variety of what you can get for $10,000 when it comes to Corollas. I've seen from 2006 to 2013 in the price range and drastically different mileage as well.
Do you want an CE, L, LE, or S? You should have no issue finding one in that price range. I have a 2010 S and it has not have any issues in 69,000 miles.
2006 TO 2012 was the 10th Gen with updates in 2009.5 and 2011. 2013 bought out the 11th Gen.
I would be careful buying a car with a rebuilt title. It may have safety issues or issues with insurance. Cars with a rebuilt title were in an accident bad enough for the insurance company to write it off. Often people will repair it on the cheap and sell it with a rebuilt title. Unless you're an expert you can never be sure how well these cars were repaired and I would be especially worried if they endured any frame damage.
I would be careful buying a car with a rebuilt title. It may have safety issues or issues with insurance. Cars with a rebuilt title were in an accident bad enough for the insurance company to write it off. Often people will repair it on the cheap and sell it with a rebuilt title. Unless you're an expert you can never be sure how well these cars were repaired and I would be especially worried if they endured any frame damage.
Exactly, they can be a hit or miss. Its a gamble I wouldn't take. My family has made a habit of buying used Corollas. First, we look for one with low miles that is decently priced. If its at a dealer, we ask them to let us take it to a shop for inspection before purchase. If its a private seller, try to get a friend who is a mechanic to come check it out to make sure its problem free.
We have bought 2 Corollas this way and neither ever had a single mechanical issue since purchase. One was a 2000 purchased in 2007 for $5K with 60K miles. The other was a 1998 purchased in 2011 for $3.3K with 62K miles. With your budget you should easily be able to find a 5-6 year old Corolla with less then 70K miles. Then its just a matter of making sure it does not have any mechanical defects. Good luck!
I'm currently looking to get a used Toyota Corolla and have the price capped at $10,000. I'm figuring something around the $8,000-$10,000 mark should allow me to a have a car that would last for a while and run decently. I'm mainly asking in relation to year and mileage. Searching on sites like cars.com there seems to be a wide variety of what you can get for $10,000 when it comes to Corollas. I've seen from 2006 to 2013 in the price range and drastically different mileage as well.
Thanks in advance for any help
Get the cash in hand.
Look in the area your willing to travel to get the deal.
I would focus on 2012-2014 at less than $11K. I see a ton of them available under 10K asking price. You can most likely get one for 8K if you aren't in a rush. Bring cash and try to negotiate a final price of 10% less than whatever they are asking. Check autotrader and start calling.
If your in an expensive area you will probably be paying $9k, I don't see any mention of your location.
Look in the area your willing to travel to get the deal.
I would focus on 2012-2014 at less than $11K. I see a ton of them available under 10K asking price. You can most likely get one for 8K if you aren't in a rush. Bring cash and try to negotiate a final price of 10% less than whatever they are asking. Check autotrader and start calling.
If your in an expensive area you will probably be paying $9k, I don't see any mention of your location.
... try to negotiate a final price of 10% less than whatever they are asking....
That's really not the best way to negotiate. Some (very few) will price their cars at or below what they should sell for. Others will ask a little more -- 10% or 20% above what they're worth and what they'd sell it for. Then you have the others who paid too much for a beater, spent too much on repairs or accessories, then think they should get all the money they put into it plus a profit. They'll price their vehicle 50% above what it should sell for and expect to get it.
Get the Blue Book value. Study it. Understand it. I've always sold and purchased mine about midpoint between book trade-in value and book sales value.
The last car I sold personally (rather than trade at a dealership), I placed an ad in the local newspaper with a reasonable "firm" price. Some guy called, then came over and looked at it before the paper hit the streets. (The on-line version is available sooner than the printed version.) He liked what he saw (a clean Toyota pickup for his high school-aged son) and handed me cash. It was a good deal for both of us. I got more than the dealer was going to allow me on a trade-in; he got it for less than what he'd have paid at a dealership. I wouldn't have come off the price if he'd have asked, but he still got a bargain.
That's really not the best way to negotiate. Some (very few) will price their cars at or below what they should sell for. Others will ask a little more -- 10% or 20% above what they're worth and what they'd sell it for. Then you have the others who paid too much for a beater, spent too much on repairs or accessories, then think they should get all the money they put into it plus a profit. They'll price their vehicle 50% above what it should sell for and expect to get it.
Get the Blue Book value. Study it. Understand it. I've always sold and purchased mine about midpoint between book trade-in value and book sales value.
The last car I sold personally (rather than trade at a dealership), I placed an ad in the local newspaper with a reasonable "firm" price. Some guy called, then came over and looked at it before the paper hit the streets. (The on-line version is available sooner than the printed version.) He liked what he saw (a clean Toyota pickup for his high school-aged son) and handed me cash. It was a good deal for both of us. I got more than the dealer was going to allow me on a trade-in; he got it for less than what he'd have paid at a dealership. I wouldn't have come off the price if he'd have asked, but he still got a bargain.
Well, we already established the car and top fair price so negotiating 10% off of that starting point in this specific case is a pretty good idea imo
You are correct though in a general sense 10% off is a bad idea and I wouldn't suggest it as a rule of thumb when buying a car.
After researching it a bit more I'm leaning toward a 2012 or a 2011 L edition. It might be a little above my price range, but I wouldn't mind if it makes a significant difference. I've also heard a lot of good things about the 2008s.
Does anyone know any more about these three cars? Anything to look out for or be concerned about?
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