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I own a 2010 jeep patriot which I paid about $13K so it's a cheap car. I was told that I need a Oxygen sensor but I have two of them so why not replace both at $207 each. Do I really need to do this?
I own a 2010 jeep patriot which I paid about $13K so it's a cheap car. I was told that I need a Oxygen sensor but I have two of them so why not replace both at $207 each. Do I really need to do this?
Someone else may confirm this but it was my understanding that the car runs fine with a bad O2 sensor, it's strictly an emissions thing. You will have trouble passing your state emissions test though. Can I assume your check engine light comes on? If you can reset it can you tell how quickly it comes back on? One way to cheat the emissions testing system (so I'm told) is to go to an auto parts place that will lend you their diagnostics test, then you can re-set the codes. Drive it for a bit then get to the emissions center before the check engine light comes back on.
Gas mileage can suffer with a bad O2 sensor. If you intend to keep the car a long time, then there will be a point where it was cheaper to replace the sensor, vs pay the extra fuel cost.
Usually, the CEL code will help narrow down which O2 sensor is bad. The code usually state upstream or downstream.
You didn't specify which engine you had, but the sensors are the same for both the 2.0L and 2.4L, Rockauto.com has OEM Mopar O2 sensors for $72 each. other brands are even cheaper such as Bosch for $27 each.
However, beyond knowing what the code number is, that's all I can tell you. In fact, depending on the code, it could also be a sign of a failing cat converter. But don't freak out on that one yet. Just find out what the code is
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveinMtAiry
One way to cheat the emissions testing system (so I'm told) is to go to an auto parts place that will lend you their diagnostics test, then you can re-set the codes. Drive it for a bit then get to the emissions center before the check engine light comes back on.
May not work in this case. Upon resetting the light, the car will try to run some emmissions monitors. One of them is O2 sensor status. The monitor needs to register as complete in order for you to get a pass. Now, some states will allow one incomplete monitor, but not all and it's usually older model cars (1990's to early 2000's) You really need to keep the code reader with you running live data on the monitor status and the minute all of the monitors are reset except for the O2 one, you need to get into a station and get a sticker ASAP. The window could be small. I find this method is more successful with EVAP codes as that window tends to be a bit larger before the CEL comes back on. Of course...if you are reading this and don't really understand what I'm talking about, you may not be able to do this method.
What code are you getting from the computer? It will generally tell you which sensor is "bad". Most common is the downstream sensor, after the catalytic converter, but it is not always the sensor that is bad. If you are getting an efficiency code it could be that the cat is bad, not the sensor. In that case the sensor is doing it's job telling you the cat is not working properly. Just replacing the sensor in that case, most likely will not fix the problem.
As for resetting the computer, you could try that is you have emissions testing in your area, but you have to drive it long enough to let the computer run all of the diagnostic tests it needs to perform. If you take it in for testing too soon, it will show several "not ready" codes to the tech, and you won't pass. In Texas we are allowed one "not ready" code which is often the evaporative emissions system test since they often run a check on the car's gas tank system several hours after you parked it. OBD Monitor Not Ready
I would certainly find out more about WHY you "need" a new o2 sensor before just buying a new one.
Gas mileage can suffer with a bad O2 sensor. If you intend to keep the car a long time, then there will be a point where it was cheaper to replace the sensor, vs pay the extra fuel cost.
Usually, the CEL code will help narrow down which O2 sensor is bad. The code usually state upstream or downstream.
You didn't specify which engine you had, but the sensors are the same for both the 2.0L and 2.4L, Rockauto.com has OEM Mopar O2 sensors for $72 each. other brands are even cheaper such as Bosch for $27 each.
However, beyond knowing what the code number is, that's all I can tell you. In fact, depending on the code, it could also be a sign of a failing cat converter. But don't freak out on that one yet. Just find out what the code is
May not work in this case. Upon resetting the light, the car will try to run some emmissions monitors. One of them is O2 sensor status. The monitor needs to register as complete in order for you to get a pass. Now, some states will allow one incomplete monitor, but not all and it's usually older model cars (1990's to early 2000's) You really need to keep the code reader with you running live data on the monitor status and the minute all of the monitors are reset except for the O2 one, you need to get into a station and get a sticker ASAP. The window could be small. I find this method is more successful with EVAP codes as that window tends to be a bit larger before the CEL comes back on. Of course...if you are reading this and don't really understand what I'm talking about, you may not be able to do this method.
No I get it but the problem is the parts store won't let me take the monitor with me. I'm so glad I don't need to do this anymore but years ago I had an old beater that I needed to milk for another year. It had a bad cat, not a chance I was putting a grand into that car. So I reset the codes, found out how long it took for the light to come back on, then acted accordingly by resetting the codes and driving just long enough for the emissions center to get a reading but before the light came back on. What a pain.
I had both Oxygen sensors go bad in my car before. When that happens, my car stalled while driving, espcially once I come to a stop at street light. A red dashboard warning light came on intermittently.
The way I understand it, both O2 sensors didn't go bad at same time; that is extremely unlikely. So one probably failed much earlier. But car drives fine, there was no warning light, no issues what-so-ever. Only when the 2nd O2 sensor went bad, then issues come up. Obviously there is no way to know which one went bad first or second.
I don't have a code from the computer just a part number but I think my real question is if I don't replace the oxygen sensor it won't hurt my car? I need to drive it a thousand miles first and then get the sensor but at $207 each I would only want to replace just the bad sensor? My jeep has the small engine.
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